Radio Shack JP1.3 Remotes
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Radio Shack JP1.3 Remotes
Here are all the current radio shack JP1.3 remotes. Don't forget to order Tommy's JP1.x cable if you don't have one already. And download the RDFs (15-13x, 15-100) and EXTENDERS (15-13x, 15-100) from the file section.
15-100 8-In-1 LCD (Backlit) - $33
15-133 5-In-1 Gamer (Backlit) (discontinued)
15-134 5-In-1 Satellite - $30
15-135 7-In-1 HDTV (discontinued)
Link to all Radio Shack JP1.3 remotes
Link to RS remotes on ebay
All these are learning and JP1.3 ready (except the 15-100 which needs a hardware mod or Tommy's upgrade kit). Since all the 15-13x remotes are identical under the hood (they even have the same signature), they are actually 8 device if you have a cable. Although the 15-133 and 15-134 don't have a Home Theater button, that mode is accessible in IR. The 134 is my personal favorite for it's colored buttons and individual device button LED's, followed by the backlit 133 and the 100 (losing points for the difficulty of adding pins).
Even without a cable these are great remotes for the price, with tons of codes for the latest devices and tons of memory.
I have a few of these for sale in the marketplace for half retail price.
15-100 8-In-1 LCD (Backlit) - $33
15-133 5-In-1 Gamer (Backlit) (discontinued)
15-134 5-In-1 Satellite - $30
15-135 7-In-1 HDTV (discontinued)
Link to all Radio Shack JP1.3 remotes
Link to RS remotes on ebay
All these are learning and JP1.3 ready (except the 15-100 which needs a hardware mod or Tommy's upgrade kit). Since all the 15-13x remotes are identical under the hood (they even have the same signature), they are actually 8 device if you have a cable. Although the 15-133 and 15-134 don't have a Home Theater button, that mode is accessible in IR. The 134 is my personal favorite for it's colored buttons and individual device button LED's, followed by the backlit 133 and the 100 (losing points for the difficulty of adding pins).
Even without a cable these are great remotes for the price, with tons of codes for the latest devices and tons of memory.
I have a few of these for sale in the marketplace for half retail price.
Last edited by mdavej on Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:18 am, edited 13 times in total.
Re: All JP1.3 Remotes Half-Price at Radio Shack this week!
Yes, same here in Md, the nearest RS with a 15-134 is 10 miles a way, this in Baltimore county.mdavej wrote: I don't know if this is typical across the country, but only one of the half dozen radio shack's in my town carries the 134, but all carry the others.
Edmund
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The Robman
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It's such a pity that the 15-100 isn't JP1 ready out of the box, because it is a really nice remote.
Rob
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Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
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unclemiltie
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vickyg2003
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You know, that last 15-100 modification where you cut the square out of the case with your dremmel wasn't nearly as frightening as some of the mods with the itty bitty soldering. Is this case really difficult to open, or is it just the standard case?It's such a pity that the 15-100 isn't JP1 ready out of the box, because it is a really nice remote.
With the last RS remote I bought, 15-134 I think, I had to enlarge the opening to get my cable to fit anyway. I didn't have a dremmel then, but I just used a standard drill and was able to cut through the case without much of a problem at all. Popping the case isn't really that big a deal. Cutting the case isn't so bad either. Its the soldering that scares me. I suppose if I cut a hole in the case I could hold the 6pin connector against the board like I used to with my Cinema 7's before I got up the nerve to solder.
Thanks mdavej, for posting the sale. I hope to stop by and pick one up tonight.
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Mark Pierson
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vickyg2003
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Vicky,
The mod you're talking about is more frightening than you think. That one involves reworking the battery holder as well as switching to smaller "N" cell batteries. And, yes, the case is pretty tough to open. Some variant of Tommy's mod is probably the way to go. I followed his instructions mostly, but chickened out at the end, soldering to the pads instead of all over the place (itty bitty soldering scares me too).
Have fun.
The mod you're talking about is more frightening than you think. That one involves reworking the battery holder as well as switching to smaller "N" cell batteries. And, yes, the case is pretty tough to open. Some variant of Tommy's mod is probably the way to go. I followed his instructions mostly, but chickened out at the end, soldering to the pads instead of all over the place (itty bitty soldering scares me too).
Have fun.
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The Robman
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Personally, I like soldering! 
But obviously, any sort of mod is scary for the general public. After all, I have sold TONS of the URC-6131 remote because people don't want to have to mod it themselves, and that mod just involves soldering in a 6-pin and an EEPROM. All of the 15-100 mods are WAY more involved than that, sufficiently so that it would not be worth anyone's while to mod them and offer them for re-sale.
Therefore, the 15-100 will never be generally accepted as a JP1 remote, which is a pity.
But obviously, any sort of mod is scary for the general public. After all, I have sold TONS of the URC-6131 remote because people don't want to have to mod it themselves, and that mod just involves soldering in a 6-pin and an EEPROM. All of the 15-100 mods are WAY more involved than that, sufficiently so that it would not be worth anyone's while to mod them and offer them for re-sale.
Therefore, the 15-100 will never be generally accepted as a JP1 remote, which is a pity.
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
I like the 15-134 because it has the colored buttons that seem to be used by more and more equipment (SAT, Cable, and Media Players), but it is missing the Audio, Subtitle, and Angle buttons that are needed for a good DVD remote. And why do they all have dedicated PiP buttons? Why not double those up with the colored buttons (so you don't need double labels) and use that bottom row for those missing DVD functions?
The 15-135 could have worked, (I like having 4 more buttons) except they got rid of the colored buttons and turned them into dedicated input selection buttons.
The 15-135 could have worked, (I like having 4 more buttons) except they got rid of the colored buttons and turned them into dedicated input selection buttons.
-- Greg
Original RemoteMaster developer
JP1 How-To's and Software Tools
The #1 Code Search FAQ and it's answer (PLEASE READ FIRST)
Original RemoteMaster developer
JP1 How-To's and Software Tools
The #1 Code Search FAQ and it's answer (PLEASE READ FIRST)
Since the 134 is sometimes cheap enough to sacrifice, I've considered transplanting the colored buttons from a 134 into a 135 for that very reason, but was unsure how they'd hold up. Otherwise I just live with it. I ususally put subtitle on LKP-Mute, audio on Shift-Mute and Angle on Shift-ViewTV. Kind of makes logical sense to me.
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The Robman
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I think you should be able to transfer the colored buttons from one remote to another. Alternatively, you could always use a little paint to mark the buttons on a 15-135.
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
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Capn Trips
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The Atlas URC-1056 OCAP has all of that, hence it is my new favorite, a position held by the RS 15-1994 for a long time and afterwards, by the HTPro/URC-8910/9910 for quite some time, as well. Its only shortcoming is a lack of devices (5), and multiplexing is still not as intuitive as I'd like it to be.
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Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!
Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
If you do transplant the color keys, I would cut the membrane just below the color keys, but include the transport keys section as well, so cut jut above the FF, PLAY, REW keys. It will give it stable and secure hold in the remote.mdavej wrote:Since the 134 is sometimes cheap enough to sacrifice, I've considered transplanting the colored buttons from a 134 into a 135 for that very reason, but was unsure how they'd hold up. Otherwise I just live with it. I ususally put subtitle on LKP-Mute, audio on Shift-Mute and Angle on Shift-ViewTV. Kind of makes logical sense to me.
Having just the 4 keys by itself, they could wobble, and if it were to start ripping with use, it wouldn't have long to go before it might cut in half.
Edmund
Thanks, Rob and Edmund. I may give the transplant a shot.
Capn, the OCAP is one of my favorites too. I love the backlit one that I have. If it was learning and had more devices, it would be perfect. The most intuitive multiplex I've been able to come up with uses a long key press on one of my device keys to toggle between two devices. It takes 5 macros, but is easy to use. The first just does the key sets and calls an LKP. The LKP Short is blank, and Long calls a Toggle ToadTog. The ToadTog On calls one multiplex macro, and Off calls the other. There's probably a better way, but it works.
Capn, the OCAP is one of my favorites too. I love the backlit one that I have. If it was learning and had more devices, it would be perfect. The most intuitive multiplex I've been able to come up with uses a long key press on one of my device keys to toggle between two devices. It takes 5 macros, but is easy to use. The first just does the key sets and calls an LKP. The LKP Short is blank, and Long calls a Toggle ToadTog. The ToadTog On calls one multiplex macro, and Off calls the other. There's probably a better way, but it works.