URC 9960- BJ13 remote &6 pin header soldier modification

[twomble]

Rob,


Do you happen to have any pictures or instructions other than what is listed below to perform a 6 pin header soldier modification? Is their a way to take the URC 9960- BJ13 remote apart to solder as it is a very small space without taking the remote apart to work in? Please research and advise.

Thanks,

Terry


The Robman wrote:
If you have some soldering ability, I would recommend that you do solder in the 6-pin as it will make the remote alot easier to work with.

Here's what you need to do...

1) Apply some flux to the pads
2) Stand the 6-pin on the pads
3) Using as little solder as possible, solder the pins in place, starting with the corner pins
4) Finally, make a bed of hot glue around the base of the pins, for support

[The Robman]

I assume you are talking about the black plastic framework that is revealed once you open up the remote?

When I do this mod, I leave that framework in place simply because of the extra time that would be involved in removing it, but that being said, I have removed it on occassion. To remove it, first you need to remove all the screws, then you need to "be-head" the 3 or 4 plasitc poles that hold it all together. This will allow you to seperate the parts. Don't worry about the poles that you just cut the tops off, because the screws are more than enough to hold the remote together.

[Tommy Tyler]

Terry,

Here are a few additional comments about the 9960. When you remove the 13 screws in the black plastic frame you can lift off the metal bezel and the display panel, but the black plastic frame remains attached to the PCB.

First warning: Under one of the 13 screws is a little washer with a tab that sticks through a slot in the frame to contact the underside of the bezel. Don't lose that washer, and remember where it goes.

Looking around the edge of the keypad you'll see three little black mushroom heads, which are alignment pins from the frame that are heat-swaged, kind of like rivets, to hold the PCB and frame together. Slice the heads off flush with the surface of the PCB, and you should be able to separate it from the frame.

Second warning: When reassembling, it can be very hard to get those three pins to enter the holes in the PCB easily, because when they were heat-swaged they expanded to a tight fit. Forcing them can cause the sharp edge of one of the PCB holes to scrape the side of the soft plastic pin and build up a ridge that leaves a space between the PCB and frame. It may help to chamfer the ends of the pins slightly with a shapr knife, or even give them a blunt point. As Rob pointed out, they will still keep the PCB and frame in alignment while you replace the 13 screws.

Third warning: When soldering the header it is advisable to keep it mated with a female connector to keep the pins aligned and straight. It's easy to soften the plastic with the soldering iron so that the pins begin to "lean" and "sag".

Don't expect the hot-melt glue to stick to flux. It will still stabilize the header against tipping, even if it doesn't stick. But if it were me I would try to clean around the pins with a Q-tip and denatured alcahol.

Good luck.

Tommy

[Tommy Tyler]

Minor correction: The tab of the washer contacts a semi-circular ground pad on the PCB, not the bezel. It's purpose is to ground the bezel, for static-electricity considerations.

Tommy