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Can you copy URC-8910 update to URC-6960?

 
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rickgtx



Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 35

                    
PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 2:35 pm    Post subject: Can you copy URC-8910 update to URC-6960? Reply with quote

Hi, I have a URC-6960 Kameleon and a URC-8910. According to the OFA folks, the code I need for my 6960 is AMP 1568 for a Durabrand HT-3917. Neither remote has that code already programmed.

So the question is: Can I get the update via sound on the 8910 and transfer the codes to the 6960 with a JP1 connector and software?

I ordered a JP1 connector this week and look forward programming these remotes.

Thanks,
Rick
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johnsfine
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Joined: 10 Aug 2003
Posts: 4766
Location: Bedford, MA

                    
PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can certainly use a JP1 cable to read an upgrade from an 8910 after programming it by sound.

In most cases the RemoteMaster program can load a raw upgrade (such as you would have from above) and convert it to a form in which you could change the model of remote and have a correct result. In rare cases where it can't, you can post the .ir file (from reading the 8910 via JP1 cable) and one of the experts will help.

My biggest reservation is regarding the physical connection of JP1 to the 6960. The 6960 doesn't have pins for its JP1 connection, correct?

Have you planned a way to connect the JP1 cable to the 6960?
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unclemiltie
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Joined: 21 Jan 2004
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

                    
PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 6960 does not have the pins and does not have thru-holes for the JP1 connector. However, it does have the pads and with a little bit of work you can make the header fit.

You will need to know how to solder and have the tools to do so. Taking it apart is about the same as most remotes.




-bill
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this JP1 stuff is a sickness!
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rickgtx



Joined: 27 Jul 2007
Posts: 35

                    
PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, yes the URC-6960 has the pads. I'm reviewing the pogo pin adapter plans. Unfortunately, some the pogo pin part numbers listed are not at Mouser.com. There are bunch of pogo pins to choose from at http://www.mouser.com/catalog/630/1779.pdf

Do you think the connecting a header would be easier? I have intermediate solder skills, kit assembly, etc.
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unclemiltie
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Joined: 21 Jan 2004
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

                    
PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you can solder, attaching the pins to the back of the remote is pretty easy. I took the standard 6-pin header and bent the lower-legs to look a bit like an "L" to give it more strength. Rob just solders them straight up on his 9960's that he sells. I'd also put a drop of epoxy or other glue to give it some strength after you solder. Mine have been very stable.

you CAN buy the right-angle headers on line, I have a few of them but I can't remember where I got them. But bending the pins with a pair of needle nose pliars isn't all that dificult.


good luck

-bill
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adding a 6-pin to the remote is easier than building a pogo-pin adapter. The people who use the pogo, do so because they can buy them ready made from JP1 vendors as they are not capable of doing any soldering themselves.

To add a 6-pin to the Kameleon, all you need to do is...

1) Disassemble the casing.
2) Apply some flux to the pads
3) Hold a 6-pin in place with some tweezers
4) Have a coil of solder ready with the end of the solder sticking out.
5) Touch the solder with the soldering iron to get some solder onto the iron.
6) Touch the iron onto one of the pins where it touches the pad.
7) Repeat for the 4 corner pins, this will hold the 6-pin in place.
8) Solder the remaining 2 pins and (if needed) add more solder to the first 4 pins. At this point, you don't need to be holding the 6-pin in place with the tweezers anymore as the 6-pin is held in place with the original solder, so you can hold the remote in one hand and the iron in the other.
9) Once all the pins are soldered and the connection has been tested and verified to work, get a hot glue gun and apply some glue around the base of the 6-pin to give it extra support.
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Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!


Last edited by The Robman on Fri Jul 27, 2007 6:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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underquark
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Joined: 20 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeez, that 8 ) coming out as a smiley "8)" got me on one of my earliest posts (and I think it was the Robman who showed me how to avoid it Wink ). Couldn't find the post when I searched (looking for 8), Author underquark); however I did come across this one (which made me laugh, anyway):
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=34550#34550
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
Posts: 21238
Location: Chicago, IL

                    
PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, I don't notice them until I come back to a thread to read the replies, which is when I fix them.

I guess I'm a better searcher than you...
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=32526#32526
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Rob
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Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
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