Creating RDF (Cox remote URC-7820)

[kupakai]

I'm almost done with an RDF for Cox M7820 JP1.1 remote, but there are a couple of things I could not figure out by looking at other RDF's and the memory dump of the remote, and I'm hoping someone can explain them to me.

1. How can I determine what the "BaseAddr" and the "RAMAddr" are? I've looked through some other RDF and tried a couple in those and I get an error when I try to upload through IR.

2. "Checksums" and "FixedData" I'm assuming I can probably figure out once the rest of the RDF works and looking at what changes and what doesn't (I think I've already located where the checksum values are).

3. "ButtonMaps" seems to be a list of key codes for keys that are available for each device type. I've deduced that number keys are grouped in parentheses, volume and mute are grouped, and channel keys are grouped, and the rest are just listed individually, but I don't understand why. Can someone tell me how this works?

4. I've worked out what protocols are available for the remote by listing the device codes from the manual and then cross-referencing it with "Device.xls". It's a bit tedious, but not that bad, but is there a better way?

5. "DigitMaps" I read about in various posts and looked at the hidden sheet in KM, but could not figure out how to determine the values. Does anybody have any tips on figuring this out?

I've uploaded the files RDF as I have now and the IR dump here:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=4258

Thanks.

[kupakai]

With the help with binky123, I've completed the RDF for Cox URC-7820, and uploaded the RDF, the map and image file here. Despite the fact that it says JP1.1 on the 6 pin header, it apparently uses HSC08 processor, as binky123 discovered.

With binky123's help, I've figured out the BaseAddr and the Checksum, and he has given me some clues to the other values, so I'll be looking into that, but I'd still like to know the answers to the other questions for future references, so if someone can help, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

[unclemiltie]

The items that you are looking for are things that the experts know but the knowledge is not for general consumption. This includes things like the button map data, the digit table data, protocols, etc.

The button maps are done that way since the remote handles the channel, volume and digits as "special" keysets when searching to see if a key is available in the current mode. Thus, the groupings.

You can sort of see how this is done in the format of an upgrade. There is a bitmap that is part of the upgrade that describes which keys are in the device. The top 3 bits of the first byte determine if there are digits, volume and channel keys in the upgrade. the rest of the bits in this string (and subsequent bytes) describe if the data has a value for each key that is available in the selected mode. The lower bit of each byte determines if there is another byte (0=more, 1=this is the last)

you can see how this works in RM or KM by defining keys and looking at the resultant data.


-bill

[palasx]

came across this post, it seems to link to the files i need to start working on upgrading my cox remotes, but the files linked therein do not exist.

Can anyone please help me locate those files or a suitable substitute? My 7830 is labeled jp1.1, so i'm pretty sure i don't want the JP1.3 files for it.


Thanks a million!

EDIT: Upon further investigation, i have learned that jus because my remote labels itself as a JP1.1 remote, that it might actually be a JP1.2 or JP1.3 remote, and it might also even have learning capability! Problem is that all the 7820/M7820 remotes look identical on the outside. The battery compartment has a stick that states "URC 7820-MOT 09541", underneath the six pin connector is says "JP1.1" on one line and "1003" just below that.

Is there anyway i can accurately identify which interface i need for this remote, aside from building both and ending up with an extra?

I really appreciate the help!

[The Robman]

The RDF, map and image for the Cox URC-7820 are already included in the main zip files.

https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=5338
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=6160

[Capn Trips]

Go to the Beginner's Read This First section (linked below in my sig). It points you to all of the tools that you need. You need to download:

IR.exe;
KeymapMaster.xls OR RemoteMaster (a Java program);
Maps and Images (for RemoteMaster);
RDF.zip file for both IR and RemoteMaster.

Once you have all of those files downloaded, you will have all that you need for building upgrades for you remote. The Cox 7820 (JP1.1) has been supported by the tools for several years and the required files specific to your remote are included in those zip files.

Read the read me, download the tools and then ask specific questions when you come across them.

[3FG]

Let's start by identifying which remote you have.
Blink back the remote's signature (a 4 digit number) using the 983 command.

1 Press and hold the Setup button until it blinks twice.
2. Enter 983
4. Press 1, and count the number of blinks. This is the first digit of the signature. If the remote does not blink, the signature digit is 0.
5. Press 2,count the blinks. (2nd digit)
6. Press 3, count the blinks. (3rd digit)
7. Press 4, count the blinks. (4th digit)

I guess that the signature will be 3046, in which case it is a JP1.3 remote.

[Capn Trips]

EDIT: Upon further investigation, i have learned that jus because my remote labels itself as a JP1.1 remote, that it might actually be a JP1.2 or JP1.3 remote, and it might also even have learning capability! Problem is that all the 7820/M7820 remotes look identical on the outside. The battery compartment has a stick that states "URC 7820-MOT 09541", underneath the six pin connector is says "JP1.1" on one line and "1003" just below that.

Is there anyway i can accurately identify which interface i need for this remote, aside from building both and ending up with an extra?

I really appreciate the help!

I'm, 99% sure that your is a JP1.2 remote, so you should just get a JP1 "Flash" cable from Tommy Tyler's store

[Capn Trips]

Let's start by identifying which remote you have.
Blink back the remote's signature (a 4 digit number) using the 983 command.

1 Press and hold the Setup button until it blinks twice.
2. Enter 983
4. Press 1, and count the number of blinks. This is the first digit of the signature. If the remote does not blink, the signature digit is 0.
5. Press 2,count the blinks. (2nd digit)
6. Press 3, count the blinks. (3rd digit)
7. Press 4, count the blinks. (4th digit)

I guess that the signature will be 3046, in which case it is a JP1.3 remote.

If it's the JP1.2 model, which I suspect, since the JP1.3 is labeled as JP1.3, the sig would be 1043.

And if you get yet a DIFFERENT signature other than 3046 or 1043, then you have a model not yet cracked by the experts in this forum.

In either event, the same cable works.

[palasx]

Wow, that was both fast and EXACTLY helpful!

I put my hands on another 7820, this one is labeled JP1.3, so now i have two remotes with the following characteristics, PLEASE correct me if i am wrong:

7820 - Labeled JP1.1 - Signature 1043 - Actually JP1.2
7820 - Labeled JP1.3 - Signature 3046 - Actually JP1.3

Ok, here is the last bit of advice seeking before i stop bothering people today. I plan on purchasing http://www.diygadget.com/jp1-1-1-1-2-1- ... ble-1.html, which is labeled as a JP1.1/1.2 adapter. In the description of the product, it says that it wont work with JP1.3 unless i cut pin/wire 5. Can i just wire in a toggle switch to have a universal 1.1/1.2/1.3 serial adapter?

Ones again, thank you guys SO MUCH! i FINALLY have some free time to get this done, but ive been wanting to do it for over a year now. Hopefully i will get the part by next weekend and i can cut down on the CRAZY number of remotes in this house.

P.S. The environment thanks you for cutting down on my battery usage!

[3FG]

I recommend that you buy the interface made by Tommy Tyler. It will do both JP1.2 and JP1.3, and I can tell you the quality is excellent. It uses a FTDI USB to serial chip which has excellent drivers available for both 64 and 32 bit operating systems.

I would not interpose a switch in the pin 5 line. Noise pickup could be a problem. In any event, there are very few JP1.1 remotes in existence, compared to JP1.2 or 1.3

[Capn Trips]

Wow, that was both fast and EXACTLY helpful!

I put my hands on another 7820, this one is labeled JP1.3, so now i have two remotes with the following characteristics, PLEASE correct me if i am wrong:

7820 - Labeled JP1.1 - Signature 1043 - Actually JP1.2
7820 - Labeled JP1.3 - Signature 3046 - Actually JP1.3

Ok, here is the last bit of advice seeking before i stop bothering people today. I plan on purchasing http://www.diygadget.com/jp1-1-1-1-2-1- ... ble-1.html, which is labeled as a JP1.1/1.2 adapter. In the description of the product, it says that it wont work with JP1.3 unless i cut pin/wire 5. Can i just wire in a toggle switch to have a universal 1.1/1.2/1.3 serial adapter?

Ones again, thank you guys SO MUCH! i FINALLY have some free time to get this done, but ive been wanting to do it for over a year now. Hopefully i will get the part by next weekend and i can cut down on the CRAZY number of remotes in this house.

P.S. The environment thanks you for cutting down on my battery usage!

If you go with DiYGadget, you need the JP1.2/1.3 adapter rather than the JP1.1/1.2. That said, I recommend Tommy Tyler's USB adapter rather than those serial adapters. But that's just me.

I know that it costs a bit more, but the USB adapter is more future-proof than the serial adapters.

Did you do the blinkback test suggested above? that would remove all doubt about whether or not you need a JP1.1-capable adapter.

[palasx]

yes, the blinkback/983 was what gave me the signature codes for the two different remotes.

so the 1043 is NOT a JP1.1 remote, or will work with Tomy's 1.2/1.3 adapter?

[3FG]

Yes, 1043 is a JP1.2 remote using a HCS08 processor.
3046 is JP1.3 using a S3F80 processor.

Both remotes use flash memory with the same serial communication protocol. Tommy's USB interface works well with both.

[palasx]

Thanks everyone so much. i'm going to be ordering the USB one. I am a fan of the 9pin serial interface, but i suppose i should let the dinosaur go.

Besides, im sure every time he gets an order its one more reason to stay involved in the JP1 community. Thanks again.