Mouser Parts List

[Oinge]

Does anyone have a Mouser parts list for the components necessary to build the simple interface?

Does anyone have a kit for the USB interface?

[Mark Pierson]

The parts lists can be found in the interface instruction files.

[usblipitor]

The following applies to the simple interface for use with desktops (not laptops which need a different resistor and diode):

1 DB25 male connector
1 DB25 connector hood, any size or shape
2 Resistors: 1K 1/4W (Radio Shack 271-1321)
1 Signal diode, 1N4148 or equivalent (Radio Shack 276-1122)
1 cable (that fits into the 6 pin connector)
1 6 pin connector to interface with JP1 pins in remote

Also look at Simple Interface Instructions and Cable Instructions.

IMHO, if you are an expert and have made this cable many times before, go for it. But if you are just looking to program your remote and not become a zen master of JP1 (no offense intended toward the great masters of JP1!), just buy the already completed JP1 cable. The cost of the parts plus the cost of your time in obtaining the parts (esp the 6 pin connector and the cable that attaches to it, which are not sold directly) plus the cost of your time in assembling and testing the cable may approach or exceed the $15 you could just buy the cable for, on one of the several web sites that sell it. I got mine in a package deal with a OFA 8910 for under $50.

My experience has been that my interface craps out 25% of the time (I get the message that the interface isn't working and I have to unplug and replug the jp1 cable several times before it works.) My advice is to spend the extra $15 and buy a pre-made ultra-interface cable.) If you are not sure what web site sells them, check out the market place portion of this board. There are lots of people who will gladly take your money

I have not seen a kit or a pre-made cable for USB on any of the sites yet. If/when they do become available, they will probably cost a lot, and it will probably take some time before all the bugs are worked out getting the IR and KM programs to talk to the USB interface correctly. My advice is buy the ultra-interface cable now, and in a few years, when everyone else is migrating to USB also, you can buy a USB cable then.

[The Robman]

Just FYI, a Schottky diode (1N5818) is recommend instead of the standard signal diode, especially for laptops. The 1k resistors are fine regardless (the old design called for 10k resistors).

The online vendors who sell cables are:
http://www.hovisdirect.com and
http://jp1.filebug.com

Both vendors are excellent and trustworthy.

[usblipitor]

Just FYI, a Schottky diode (1N5818) is recommend instead of the standard signal diode, especially for laptops.

Robman (and experts),
Is the 1N5818 the preferred diode for both laptops and desktops? Or is the 1N4148 preferred for desktops and the 1N5818 preferred for laptops? Do they cost about the same?
Thanks!

[greg882]

Here is what I ordered. Be sure to see the notes

698-CAT24WC16J-1.8 (16 kbit) (Note 1)
649-65043-034 $0.500 (Note 2)
156-3025 $1.210
156-1225 $0.990
512-1N4148 $0.040
30BJ250-10K $0.220 (Note 3)
571-872273 $1.680

Note 1 - I actually ordered 698-CAT24WC02J-1.8 which is the wrong part. I ended up getting the eeprom that I did use from Robman.

Note 2 - I think this part is the 6 pin plug - you will know when you look up the part number. I had access to crimp on contacts that insert into this plug.

Note 3 - I ordered the 10k because I was looking at an old interface. You will want 1k resistors.

The backshell was metalic coated plastic. I used heat shrink on the wires, resistors, and diode to keep them from contacting the backshell. You can shrink it with the soldering iron if you are careful.

All in all, if I did it again I would probably just order a completed cable. As far as soldering the eeprom and 6 pin into the remote (6131) the hardest part is getting the remote open without damaging it. The first time I used a small sainless stell ruler. That worked ok but left some marks. Rob suggests using a credit card. When I opened the remote the second time I used the credit card and it worked great (although I did leave some marks on the card - but not the remote).

-Greg

Hope this helps.

[skooter]

Why is it that laptops require the 1N5818 diode and resistors for the JP1 Cable?

.........Skooter

[johann83]

Why is it that laptops require the 1N5818 diode and resistors for the JP1 Cable?

Generally laptops will supply a slightly lower voltage to the parallel port than a standard PC. A 1N5818 is Schottky type diode which has a lower voltage drop (~0.5V vs ~0.7V) than a "standard" diode. This extra 200mV sometimes helps make up for the lower supply in a laptop.

Matt

[The Robman]

Robman (and experts),
Is the 1N5818 the preferred diode for both laptops and desktops? Or is the 1N4148 preferred for desktops and the 1N5818 preferred for laptops? Do they cost about the same?

The 1N5818 (Schottky) diode is especially preferred for laptops, but is a better diode regardless so it will work just as well for desktops. They are more expensive, but you're only talking about 20 cents vs. 8 cents!

As far as soldering the eeprom and 6 pin into the remote (6131) the hardest part is getting the remote open without damaging it. The first time I used a small sainless stell ruler. That worked ok but left some marks. Rob suggests using a credit card. When I opened the remote the second time I used the credit card and it worked great (although I did leave some marks on the card - but not the remote). -Greg

I recommend using an old credit card that you don't mind trashing, because you WILL damage the credit card, so don't use your current card. (You should see my pile of torn up cards!!!)

[skooter]

Thank you for taking the time to reply to my message johann83 and The Robman. I appreciate it.

............Skooter