Harman/Kardon HK-3490 for URC-8910

[matt_garman]

1. Device: Harman/Kardon HK-3490
2. Type of device: Stereo Receiver/Integrated Amplifier
3. Year: 2009 or 2010 (still in production)
4. JP1/UEI Remote model: One For All URC-8910
5. Do you have a JP1 cable? No
6. Still have original remote? Yes
7. Checked the file section? Yes
8. Checked Pronto file section (at R/C)? Yes
9. Partially working setup code? No
10. Learning remote question? I was able to teach the volume up button, but not volume down. Also, I'm not sure volume up was learned 100% correctly, because holding the button down only sends one signal, instead of a repeating signal. Also, sometimes it took several button presses to just get through once.

I plan to order a JP1 cable in the near futures. But in the meantime, if someone could post a WAV for this upgrade, I would really appreciate it!

Thank you,
Matt

[3FG]

The upgrades here are for the AVR series of HK components. So it isn't clear if the HK series uses the same IR signals (NEC1 protocol, device 128.112 and 130.114). The 8910 has a built-in setup code which will control some of the functions of the AVR series.

Please try setup code Audio 0110, and see if Vol + or Vol - work. If so, we'll make a WAV file under the assumption that the HK 3490 uses the same signals as the AVR series. If not, we'll need to search a little bit.

I think doing a test with Audio 0110 is more robust than just loading a WAV file.

[matt_garman]

Sorry, I should have mentioned in my original post, I've already tried Audio Receiver code 0110 (it's actually listed in the manual for the URC-8910). I also tried Audio Amplifier code 0892 with no luck. Volume doesn't work with either of these codes.

[3FG]

A long time ago the AVR80 used the RC5 IR protocol with device 16 (0892 uses RC5x).
Let's try the Volume buttons with that one. The setup code is RCVR (tuner) 1189. Another code to try is 1089.

Still another possibility is NEC1 132.66. That is sent by Video 0582. You'll need to test this by sending an EFC. After assigning the setup code, press Setup and enter 229. That should send Vol+. Vol- is 249.

[matt_garman]

I'm sad to say none of those work.

BTW, 0582 was "not found" under Video on my remote, but I kept trying different categories. DVD 0582 got "success", but still did not operate the HK-3490 (neither the power button worked nor Setup+229/249).

[3FG]

Well, I think the best course is to get a JP1 cable, learn the codes, and use IR.exe to decode the learns so that you know the IR protocol, device and function numbers.

The 8910 is a old remote which employs a computer interface that we call JP1. I recommend Tommy Tyler as the vendor of interface cables, and he no longer supplies the JP1 version. Instead he offers a JP1.2/1.3 interface cable, and an inexpensive adapter to use the newer cable design with JP1 remotes.

Of course, people's preferences in remotes vary, but unless you are very attached to the 8910, I'd get a JP1.2/1.3 remote, specifically a OneForAll URC-8820N or RCA RCRP05B. Both are available for <$20, and you wouldn't necessarily need to get the JP1 adapter. The newer remotes have considerably more memory and have many more built-in executors, further reducing the need for memory. The buttons more closely correspond to today's cable systems, Blu-Ray players, etc.

[matt_garman]

Well, I think the best course is to get a JP1 cable, learn the codes, and use IR.exe to decode the learns so that you know the IR protocol, device and function numbers.

The 8910 is a old remote which employs a computer interface that we call JP1. I recommend Tommy Tyler as the vendor of interface cables, and he no longer supplies the JP1 version. Instead he offers a JP1.2/1.3 interface cable, and an inexpensive adapter to use the newer cable design with JP1 remotes.

I placed on order for the original JP1 before you posted this. I'll see what I can do. I'm not sure I'll be able to learn all the functions of the HK-3490, though. See above about my inability to learn the Volume- key. But I also have a USB-UIRT, so maybe that can help me get where I need to be.

In general, has anyone ever tried contacting the (device) manufacturer for remote codes? Ideally, this should be a simple request if one can get in contact with the right person at a company. I might try seeing if Harman/Kardon can give me any useful information. (Although, I'm a bit cynical about this, as asking specific, detailed technical questions to larger companies' general support staff is usually an exercise in frustration. Maybe HK will surprise me!)

Of course, people's preferences in remotes vary, but unless you are very attached to the 8910, I'd get a JP1.2/1.3 remote, specifically a OneForAll URC-8820N or RCA RCRP05B. Both are available for <$20, and you wouldn't necessarily need to get the JP1 adapter. The newer remotes have considerably more memory and have many more built-in executors, further reducing the need for memory. The buttons more closely correspond to today's cable systems, Blu-Ray players, etc.

I don't know if I'm "very attached" to the 8910, but I really like its little built-in LCD display. It's also been remarkably rugged over the years, especially considering it was only like $20. Something internally actually broke, as it rattles, but still works just fine! And my wife likes it.

On the other hand, the remotes you mentioned are cheap enough to be worth trying.

Thanks again for your help, I appreciate it.
Matt

[cauer29]

I don't know if I'm "very attached" to the 8910, but I really like its little built-in LCD display. It's also been remarkably rugged over the years, especially considering it was only like $20. Something internally actually broke, as it rattles, but still works just fine! And my wife likes it.

On the other hand, the remotes you mentioned are cheap enough to be worth trying.

Thanks again for your help, I appreciate it.
Matt

The rattling you hear is likely the modem pickup coil and is bad news if you were hoping to do a wav upgrade. If you're handy with a soldering iron, you could probably reconnect and reattach the modem coil, but the JP1 interface is a better way to go all around.

A.A.

[mdavej]

It's a good thing you got a cable. With that rattle, a wav upgrade wouldn't have worked anyway. You can easily fix the rattle and the wav upgrade ability by opening up the remote, soldering back the broken wires from the big coil causing the rattle then hot-glue it back to the board.

Do you have a link to the cable (and adapter) you ordered? Just want to make sure you got the right one. For the 8910, it has to be JP1, not JP1.2 or JP1.3 unless you also get the adapter. Realize also that if your computer has a parallel port, you can make your own cable for around $5.

[matt_garman]

The rattling you hear is likely the modem pickup coil and is bad news if you were hoping to do a wav upgrade. If you're handy with a soldering iron, you could probably reconnect and reattach the modem coil, but the JP1 interface is a better way to go all around.

It's a good thing you got a cable. With that rattle, a wav upgrade wouldn't have worked anyway. You can easily fix the rattle and the wav upgrade ability by opening up the remote, soldering back the broken wires from the big coil causing the rattle then hot-glue it back to the board.

Ha! I think there's some irony floating around here.

I have basic soldering skills, but going the JP1 cable route looks vastly superior to the WAV route. So I'll probably just toss the broken coil.

Do you have a link to the cable (and adapter) you ordered? Just want to make sure you got the right one. For the 8910, it has to be JP1, not JP1.2 or JP1.3 unless you also get the adapter. Realize also that if your computer has a parallel port, you can make your own cable for around $5.

I ordered the JP1 (EEPROM) Simple Cable from DIYGADGET. It was worth the extra cost for the time savings and convenience to just order a pre-built cable.

I also sent HK a technical support email, asking if (1) they know of other products (HK or otherwise) that use the same IR protocol, and/or if (2) they could send me the specs of the IR protocol used by the 3490. We'll see.

[mdavej]

That's the right cable IF you still have a parallel port on your computer.

[matt_garman]

That's the right cable IF you still have a parallel port on your computer.

Yup, my wife's laptop has a parallel port, and also happens to be the only computer in our house with Windows on it (the rest all run Linux).

[The Robman]

In general, has anyone ever tried contacting the (device) manufacturer for remote codes? Ideally, this should be a simple request if one can get in contact with the right person at a company. I might try seeing if Harman/Kardon can give me any useful information. (Although, I'm a bit cynical about this, as asking specific, detailed technical questions to larger companies' general support staff is usually an exercise in frustration. Maybe HK will surprise me!)

Generally speaking, the companies that are willing to share the remote info have it posted on their website, Yamaha is a good example of this. However, most companies stupidly regard this as "proprietary" info and won't share it.

Regarding the problems that you're having with learning, if you can at least learn SOME of the buttons, that will show us what protocol and device code(s) your device uses, which will get us well on the way to creating you an upgrade. Once we have an upgrade started, we can often guess at the codes for the missing buttons and you can test a bunch of missing codes to get the rest.

Regarding your rattling modem, rather than toss it away, you really should fix it, as the fix is so easy. The coil has a single wire wrapped around it and you need to solder each end to the PCB. It doesn't matter which war around you solder the wire ends. You also need to hot glue the coil back to the PCB. It's always possible that, in the future, your JP1 cable could be broken or you could have gotten rid of the PC with the parallel port, and then you would regret having tossed the modem away as that would be your old way of loading an upgrade.

[matt_garman]

In general, has anyone ever tried contacting the (device) manufacturer for remote codes? Ideally, this should be a simple request if one can get in contact with the right person at a company. I might try seeing if Harman/Kardon can give me any useful information. (Although, I'm a bit cynical about this, as asking specific, detailed technical questions to larger companies' general support staff is usually an exercise in frustration. Maybe HK will surprise me!)

Generally speaking, the companies that are willing to share the remote info have it posted on their website, Yamaha is a good example of this. However, most companies stupidly regard this as "proprietary" info and won't share it.

I wonder, then, if they make the universal remote manufacturers sign a NDA before getting the codes?

Anyway, I tried emailing HK support for help on this. I don't think they completely understand what I'm asking for. But I will say I've been pleasantly surprised to receive actual personal responses from real people within a short amount of time. I.e. no form letters, no "Engrish", no runaround.

I basically said in my email to them, "I have the ability to do low-level remote programming. Pretend that I am a universal remote manufacturer and want to provide support for your HK-3490. Please provide me with the remote codes I need to do this. If you can't do that, what other HK products would I be able to control with the HK-3490 remote?"

They didn't help out with the first request, but they suggested the following models in response to the second request (note that I'm writing these model numbers multiple ways for better search-ability):

• HK3390 / HK-3390 / HK 3390
• HK3485 / HK-3485 / HK 3485
• HK3385 / HK-3385 / HK 3385
• AVR145 / AVR-145 / AVR 145
• AVR147 / AVR-147 / AVR 147
• AVR154 / AVR-154 / AVR 154

So if anyone has happened to work with any of those models, maybe that is a clue. I wasn't able to find anything on these forums when I searched though (although I haven't checked the Pronto site yet - EDIT: not on Pronto site).

Regarding the problems that you're having with learning, if you can at least learn SOME of the buttons, that will show us what protocol and device code(s) your device uses, which will get us well on the way to creating you an upgrade. Once we have an upgrade started, we can often guess at the codes for the missing buttons and you can test a bunch of missing codes to get the rest.

Good point, that makes sense.

Regarding your rattling modem, rather than toss it away, you really should fix it, as the fix is so easy. The coil has a single wire wrapped around it and you need to solder each end to the PCB. It doesn't matter which war around you solder the wire ends. You also need to hot glue the coil back to the PCB. It's always possible that, in the future, your JP1 cable could be broken or you could have gotten rid of the PC with the parallel port, and then you would regret having tossed the modem away as that would be your old way of loading an upgrade.

That does sound easy. I guess I was just looking at it as a "disposable" remote, given how cheap it and its replacements are. Having said that, I guess it's kind of a lousy attitude to have.

[mdavej]

HERE's an upgrade learned from harmony. Let me know if it works. Number 0 was a guess since it was wrong on the harmony.