JP1 Remotes

I cannot figure out how to perform manufacturing reset on RadioShack 15-100 remote control. Can someone please help?

Did you try the "modern LCD" reset instructions from the master reset instructions in the wiki?

http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.p ... structions

thank you for the reply.

I've tried
Press and hold SETUP until screen reads "CODE SET"
Press RECORD
Follow the prompt

but nothing happens after that. My remote periodically rebooting/crashing. I thought perhaps manufacturing reset will cure it.

On page 26 of the user manual it says:
1) Hold P until the LCD displays CODE SET OK OR [UP] [DOWN].
2) Use [up] [down] keys to scroll to RESET.
3) Press OK.

There is more, just OK a couple of times to confirm you want to reset. As I recall, there is somewhere in there that you can enter the typical 981 code to do a factory reset.

I believe you are referring to OPS reset and not MFP reset as described in here. I have tried the OPS reset but it didn't fix the problem I am having. I suspect I may have damaged remote and/or wiring somewhere. I did open the remote and inspected but haven't found anything wrong with it. This remote is being used by my mom and she damaged the connector I have soldered when she was replacing the batteries (perhaps I damaged it myself even). I soldered connector pins yesterday (no longer have access to crimping tool) but I am unable to get it to work with IR or debug script. I also had issues with jp1.x cable I built but I was able to fix it and it works with other remotes.
Here is the thread that talks about MFR vs OPS.
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4057

I couldn't find the instructions, but I think, after you scroll to RESET and before you click OK, enter 981 and the LCD changes to something like MFR RESET. This is from a very old memory, so the point you enter 981 may be wrong. When I get home I will see if I still have my 15-100.

EDIT: No, I don't have an operational 15-100 any more, so sorry I can't test this, but I am sure that this or some variation of when to enter the 981 should work

Thank you pH7_jp1. I just followed your instructions and it worked.
1. press P until code set shows up
2. up arrow once to get to reset menu
3. click ok once
4. enter981.
Viola! MFR completed. Red led blinks several times and you are done.

I had 2 broken wires at the connector crimps! I got the the remote working with my adapter cable but I broke the connector so I will have to resolder it tomorrow.

Good. I'm glad it worked.

I fixed connector today and was able to program the remote. Now the new problem arised, the remote is not sending the signal. I've used my cell phone camera I don't see any light from IR sensor... One step forward, two steps back.

Does anyone know if schematic for 15-100 is available for download?

Before trying to track down a schematic...

Very likely you have fried the IR LED -- I did that, years ago. There are some posts on this forum concerning that episode.

Since you know how to open the case, use a loupe or magnifying glass to examine the LED anode/cathode inside. BE careful with the display, it detatches easily and makes reassembly difficult (need 3 or 4 hands). Compare with any other handy LED. If it looks different, burnt, distorted anode, do another test.

If you have a VOM/multimeter, unsolder one lead of the LED and use the meter on low ohms or 'diode check' mode. Leads one way, no current (infinite resistance). Reverse the leads, you should get some indication that the LED is conducting. If the LED fails this test, next step is to replace it. Note very carefully the shape of the anode and cathode in the LED, they are decidely different, reinstalling with correct polarity is important.

Easiest source of an IR LED with correct wavelength is from another remote control. Try to get one with leads long enough to make the soldering easier. Alternatively you can order one from Mouser or Digikey, but the shipping cost is significant. When Radio Shack existed, they sold p/n 276-143c, 940nm. Digikey p/n is 67-1000-ND. I also successfully used one LED around 400nm to make a camera remote shutter control, so there may be some leeway in the wavelength spec. Keep us posted.

TC

Thank you Tom. I did see that one side of LED is connected to battery + terminal through some current limiting resistor. I didn't see anything suspicious and measured ~0.9V drop in diode check mode with DMM. Even though I performed the measurement in circuit it does seems like the LED is fine but I haven't done any close up visual inspection like you are suggesting. I need to take it back to work and probe with the scope LED line. I do have some remote controls laying around that I can sacrifice to fix this one. I really appreciate the feedback and will keep you posted.

If the LED is not producing anything for the cell phone camera, it is probably not functioning. You could piggyback an LED from a known good source and see whether that works with the cell phone. Use a little bit of extra wire (thin stuff) to get it outside the case and put the case back together. Or just assume it's shot and go ahead and change it.
TC

Tom, thank you once again. I did fix it. It ended up being the IR LED not working. I have used oscope to verify the remote is working. When I removed IR LED and did diode check it was open both ways. I used RadioShack remote with long LED leads that I trimmed and reinstalled. The light spectrum is different looking through the phone camera, but I am sure it is going to work. I will update the other thread talking about fried IR LED.
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9554