JP1 Remotes

This FTDI FT232RL USB to Serial adapter is one of the cheapest, $8.54 + free shipping, on ebay that works just fine.
The actual color of wires are not as shown but nejpski has his research:

nejpski wrote:Wire Number \ USE \ OLD COLOR \ NEW COLOR

[1] Ground \ Black \ BLACK

[2] CTS \ Brown \ BLUE (Not connected)

[3] VCC \ Red \ RED (Not connected) 5V

[4] TXD \ Orange \ GREEN

[5] RXD \ Yellow \ WHITE

[6] RTS \ Green \ YELLOW

And with this 2x3 connector housing, 50 pieces for $3.75 + free shipping, you are good to go.

rern wrote:This FTDI FT232RL USB to Serial adapter is one of the cheapest, $8.54 + free shipping, on ebay that works just fine.
The actual color of wires are not as shown but nejpski has his research:

nejpski wrote:Wire Number \ USE \ OLD COLOR \ NEW COLOR

[1] Ground \ Black \ BLACK

[2] CTS \ Brown \ BLUE (Not connected)

[3] VCC \ Red \ RED (Not connected) 5V

[4] TXD \ Orange \ GREEN

[5] RXD \ Yellow \ WHITE

[6] RTS \ Green \ YELLOW

And with this 2x3 connector housing, 50 pieces for $3.75 + free shipping, you are good to go.

Thanks for the ref to OP's wiring info and for the useful link to economical 2x3 connectors!

Actually the cable I purchased (with color reference) was slightly different.

See link below. [So the colors are based on this cable rather than the one referenced above for $8.54.....although the color crossreference MAY be the same.]

The cable I purchased (as noted above in my post) has single pin connector and I didnt bother putting them in a 2x3 connector....[Although now that TRANX has provided that link, I probably will.]

Just wanted to say thanks for the links and good luck with the purchases.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261101529602?ss ... 1438.l2649

First cable is $8.50 (current price discounted 20%) plus $1 shipping for first cable and free for each additional.

I think as difference between these 2 fleabay cables might be the LEDs.

[l RX and TX LEDs indicator in cable I used.] Apparently some people like to see the blinking lights. I must admit, my experience is like that of cythraul (in another thread). I built an old JP1 cable YEARS ago, and had not been back in SEVERAL (5-9 years). So this is just what I chose, and may not have the support of the true experts on this forum.


PS...Thanks rern (above) for "colorizing" my post!!

From my experience, it's a great benefit having the LEDs when trying to diagnose problems with an interface. See if/how the LEDs flash can tell you a great deal about where to look for a problem (driver, wiring, software configuration, etc.).

The JP1.3 pinout by color is:
[1] (Empty)
[2] Yellow
[3] Black
[4] Green
[5] (Empty)
[6] White

Where you can usually find pin numbers by peeking inside the remote.
...but I can't really complain. This interface was so easy to prepare, it felt like cheating. My soldering iron hates me. The six one-pin sockets were easy to superglue together.
-I snipped the blue wire from the socket.
-I removed the red wire's contact from its socket and snipped the red wire shorter than the blue.
-Twisted the snipped blue and red together.
-I glued green to black with no metal showing (plastic tab sides glued together),
-glued white socket to the socket with a contact still in it but left no metal showing.
-Then, glued yellow socket to the empty socket WITH PLASTIC TAB OF EMPTY SOCKET FACING OUT OPPOSITE YELLOW SOCKET.
-Then, I glued the 2x1s together to match the pinout above. An open VUR8 remote's header was my reference.
This leaves a single exposed plastic tab showing in the 3x2 group to mark pin 1 (no nail polish required). I'll probably put some heat shrink on for strain relief, but it works great as-is.

I also discovered that on my old XP workstation, COM ports 1 and 3-10 were in use...some virtual ports created by mobile devices may have caused this. So, I had to change the COM port from 11 to 2 before Tommy's testing program would detect the interface.

Drivers were just updated last month. Download v 2.08.28 here:

http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM20828_Setup.exe

oh yeah, those green and red led's are sweet!

Hmm, I am confused why there appears to be such a difference, but whatever works!! There appear to be multiple cables out there, apparently not all have wires colored the same. Glad you got it figured out.

For my cross reference chart, the first 3 columns (first 3 items in each row since columns dont show up on posts) were provided by someone else in an earlier post, I merely added the last column (final word on each line) which indicates the color which corresponded to the previous information (ie RTS was at position 5 and had been charted as the yellow wire, but I found the wire color had changed for the cable I purchased and was now white) etc. The remote (inside) is labeled as to pin 1. So wires noted onto appropriate pins.

Thanks for the additional reference as to drivers, as I had commented with Win7 ultimate on an upgraded Dell (originally vista) and connected to the the internet, the drivers downloaded automatically. I am not surprised by XP not having them. Also remember, I too am NOT an expert, so we may have a situation of the blind leading the blind. So I apologize for any confusion. And I, of course, defer to the experts. Hope things worked out with the remote (VUR8) and the cable (ebay) (guessing you spent less than $20 combined) and a bit of time!!

I will have to try the superglue and shrink cable. Dont currently have either in the tool drawer (actually the entire basement is my tool drawer, and I probably have both, but just cant put my hands on either at present!).

No worries. Notice I apologized. When I started tweaking remotes, I had more time and patience. I just need simple and easy these days. I saw your 1-6 was the cable pinout correspondence with the older cable type so I converted to the 1-6 JP1 pinout for the purpose of gluing together. .

I purchased a lot of 50 of the 2 x 3 connector headers (no pins inside). I only needed a couple.

If anyone is interested. Can sell a few at a time for postage plus 50 cents first, each additional 35 cents.

Just trying to help people out.

PM me. Sorry USA posting only and will be first class.

Paypal will be the only form of payment I can handle.

Perhaps this will save someone a few weeks and shipping charges from the BIG DAWGS.

I am interested in trying to create my own JP1 cable.
Does anyone know of any bricks and mortar buildings (not a fan of ordering things online) where I can find the FTDI usb to serial cable and the 2x3 housing that are mentioned by Tommy Tyler in the first posting of this thread?
I am in Ontario, western Greater Toronto Area (namely Brampton, Mississauga, Etobicoke).
Thanks.

Not sure what exists in your area, but I think it very unlikely that you would be able to find an item as specialized as the FTDI cable in a brink & mortar. You might be able to find a local electronics repair store that would be willing to order parts for you.

I have an ancient Nokia (6100) mobile phone handset. I love it - except that I can't backup my contacts etc. because I every CA-42 or DKU-2 data cable I have bought is fake

I have read Tommy Taylor's article: If I understand correctly, it is about cannibalising a Nokia CA-42 cable (or similar) to make one for customising a JP1 remote control handset. So does this mean I can do the opposite, ie. assemble a "CA-42" cable (that will actually work) by combining a reputable "USB to TTL Serial Cable (FTDI chipset)" with a Nokia pop-port? (eg. cut from a fake CA-42)

I know little about remote controls, but I am ok to do soldering if required. I'm looking at buying this TTL cable: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290929362631
Thanks, Andrew (Salford, UK)

Can someone confirm if this will work with a URC-6131n remote?

2devnull wrote:Can someone confirm if this will work with a URC-6131n remote?

No, it will not.

mdavej wrote:

2devnull wrote:Can someone confirm if this will work with a URC-6131n remote?

No, it will not.

Is there one that will? I have already soldered the pins to the pads.

Yes, any JP1 EEPROM cable or your Nokia cable plus a JP1 EEPROM adapter like this: http://www.diygadget.com/jp1-1-1-1-2-1- ... apter.html

You said you soldered the pins, but you also have to solder in an EEPROM chip. Have you done that as well? If not, I'd advise you just get a JP1.3 remote.