Off Topic TV Audio

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cauer29
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Post by cauer29 »

eferz wrote:
cauer29 wrote:If the TV can be configured to output 2 channel LPCM over toslink, then you can go much cheaper with:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/produ ... 1&format=2

This one does both coax and toslink, but monoprice used to carry a toslink only version that was even cheaper.
It's funny you mentioned that, since my reply was in retort of 3FG recommending that very same device. :wink:
3FG wrote:I find Monoprice to have quality goods at a very low price. Maybe this will work: Optical to R/L RCA <-- here

Note that it won't work if the TV is sending 5.1
Sorry, I must've blacked out for a while, or passed through a time warp. Seems to happen more the older I get.

A.A.
vickyg2003
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Post by vickyg2003 »

We're camping out west so I haven't seen been following this post, but it was so cold that we checked in to the super8 so I popped in to check.

I was asked in this thread what model TV. Its an LG and it was in the LH series. I think the model number was something like LG 47LH30, although I don't have the model with me.

Anyway its in the 30's here at night so I'm NOT sleeping in a tent so I might pop in again while I'm living the life of luxury in the super 8 with the computer in the lobby!
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Post by vickyg2003 »

I just ordered the new cabinet for under the TV and now I've really got to get this Audio Out figured out. We can't hear the TV when there is any background noise, so when the neighbors mow, blow, and trim, or when the laundry is running we absolutely need to have this hooked up to the stereo speakers in the house.

I've found this information about the LG 47LH30.

SRS TruSurround XT, Invisible Speakers, Dolby Digital 5.1 Decoder.

I've dug through the manual and can't find anything about adjusting the surround sound to be anything other than dolby. The only thing in the manual is about surround sound is where it shows you how to turn off the internal speakers.

So if I'm understanding the answers I got in this thread, if the source has dolby 5.1 the TV will probably output this in 5.1. I assume that blu-ray players and some HD signals will be sent with dolby 5.1. I don't have a blu-ray player yet, but I think sometime down the road, a blu-ray will be replacing my DVD player.

So if I'm get the lower cost adapter, this will be obsolete in the next few years. So it looks like I'll need to spend more money to get this up and running.

I found the GenFen 5.1 $129 adapter for 88.26, aproximately 4 times more expensive than the non 5.1 adapter, but at a price I was comfortable with and they included the optical cable and RCA cables in that sale price.

Thanks for all the help with this.
Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.

Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
eferz
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Post by eferz »

vickyg2003 wrote:I've dug through the manual and can't find anything about adjusting the surround sound to be anything other than dolby. The only thing in the manual is about surround sound is where it shows you how to turn off the internal speakers.
I looked at the manual too. There doesn't appear to be an option to specify between PCM and Dobly Digital output for the Optical Connector.
vickyg2003 wrote:So if I'm understanding the answers I got in this thread, if the source has dolby 5.1 the TV will probably output this in 5.1. I assume that blu-ray players and some HD signals will be sent with dolby 5.1. I don't have a blu-ray player yet, but I think sometime down the road, a blu-ray will be replacing my DVD player.
Basically, any source which outputs Dolby Digital will be affected, regardless whether it is the internal TV tuner, Blu-Ray, DVR, or DVD player.
vickyg2003 wrote:So if I'm get the lower cost adapter, this will be obsolete in the next few years. So it looks like I'll need to spend more money to get this up and running.

I found the GenFen 5.1 $129 adapter for 88.26, aproximately 4 times more expensive than the non 5.1 adapter, but at a price I was comfortable with and they included the optical cable and RCA cables in that sale price.
I wonder at this point why you're keeping the old stereo system? Since you can get a decent AV Receiver for about $200 which will support the newer technologies like digital inputs, Dolby Surround Sound, and multichannel speaker setups; like this Yamaha RX V367 for $174.
Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)
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Post by vickyg2003 »

eferz wrote: I wonder at this point why you're keeping the old stereo system? Since you can get a decent AV Receiver for about $200 which will support the newer technologies like digital inputs, Dolby Surround Sound, and multichannel speaker setups; like this Yamaha RX V367 for $174.
I'm trying to keep the avalanche in check. The current receiver has 6 AV inputs in use. Subtracting 1 for the TV, that still leaves me needing 5. So then I'd probably have to upgrade something else.... This year I've bought 3 TVs and a DVR and 2 digital to analog converters. None of this stuff is going to last as long as the old stuff its replaced, AND the new wide screen TV's make me very dissatisfied with SD basic cable............

As soon as you start, you can't stop.
Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.

Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
eferz
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Post by eferz »

vickyg2003 wrote:As soon as you start, you can't stop.
It's not unlike Lay's tag lines or using JP1 remotes. :)
Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)
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Post by vickyg2003 »

eferz wrote:
vickyg2003 wrote:As soon as you start, you can't stop.
It's not unlike Lay's tag lines or using JP1 remotes. :)
Yes using JP1 remotes is very addictive, but not so expensive! You are using an insignia right? I don't believe there is an extender for those remotes. (yet). The standard JP1 remote is powerful but not nearly as nice as an extended remote. In the right hands an extended remote can really tame a complex system.
Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.

Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
eferz
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Post by eferz »

vickyg2003 wrote:
eferz wrote:
vickyg2003 wrote:As soon as you start, you can't stop.
It's not unlike Lay's tag lines or using JP1 remotes. :)
Yes using JP1 remotes is very addictive, but not so expensive! You are using an insignia right? I don't believe there is an extender for those remotes. (yet). The standard JP1 remote is powerful but not nearly as nice as an extended remote. In the right hands an extended remote can really tame a complex system.
I think that unclemiltie was working on an extender, as he made a callout for beta testers back in February then dropped one in March-April then TheGman did something afterwards and then unclemilite added more features in May but I don't know the current status though. *sadface*
Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)
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Post by vickyg2003 »

Hmm, I seem to have missed it, but there is a beta extender for the 31473147 Insignia Remote in the file section. Is that the model you have?
Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.

Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
eferz
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Post by eferz »

vickyg2003 wrote:Hmm, I seem to have missed it, but there is a beta extender for the 31473147 Insignia Remote in the file section. Is that the model you have?
I think so. Are the RDF and extenders interchangeable terms? Because that's the "Remote" selection which I use in IR/RMIR.
Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)
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Post by vickyg2003 »

Oh no, they are very different.

An Extender is a program you load in the e2 area that takes charge of the remote and processes key presses instead of allowing control to pass back to the normal key processing loop.

An RDF is a file that just tells our tools ( IR, RMIR and RM) how the e2 area is used, and what the keys are named and all sorts of other requirements for the e2 area. An extender will actually come with its own RDF because we extender writers change the way the e2 area is used.

Check out the Extenders FAQ in the wiki.

There hasn't been that much extender activity. NBoater and mathdon have written extenders for some of the European remote, and UncleMiltie is very active and specializes in the JP1.3 remotes, and I specialize in JP1.2 extenders.

It took me 6 years before I dared use an extender, and once I did I could never go back.
Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.

Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
eferz
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Post by eferz »

vickyg2003 wrote:Oh no, they are very different.

An Extender is a program you load in the e2 area that takes charge of the remote and processes key presses instead of allowing control to pass back to the normal key processing loop.

An RDF is a file that just tells our tools ( IR, RMIR and RM) how the e2 area is used, and what the keys are named and all sorts of other requirements for the e2 area. An extender will actually come with its own RDF because we extender writers change the way the e2 area is used.

Check out the Extenders FAQ in the wiki.
Hehe. I had just read that wiki after you posed the question whether I had the beta extender. But, it wasn't quite as laid out as eloquently as you've just did. Now I understand the difference. Hopefully, it won't take me six years to take advantage of it. *gulp*
Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)
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Post by vickyg2003 »

The GefenTV adapter is now hooked up. As you guys thought, the TV passes through the sound that it recieved. The bad news is that on the 65 digital SD stations, the dolby light flickers on and off and every other word is dropped and three is a lot of snapping. On the HD channels the sound is spectacular the dolby light is illuminated all the time. If i play TV through the magnavox 515h dvr, with the AV cables, all the dolby flickering is gone, the dolby liight is out, but I get nice sound out of the stereo.

Basically I wish I hadn't upgraded to the new TV. Working with the STB was easier than this. I hate the new technology.
eferz
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Post by eferz »

vickyg2003 wrote:The GefenTV adapter is now hooked up. As you guys thought, the TV passes through the sound that it recieved. The bad news is that on the 65 digital SD stations, the dolby light flickers on and off and every other word is dropped and three is a lot of snapping.
Unfortuantely, that's just the nature of the SD stations that try to include dolby audio along with the transmission. Your poor converter is trying to keep up with the lousy transmission and trying to alternate between the compressed (dolby) and uncompressed (pcm) audio. Something that you might try is toggling through the Stereo/Mono/SAP audio channels which is described on page 87 of the manual and see if that helps with all the audio clipping.
vickyg2003 wrote:On the HD channels the sound is spectacular the dolby light is illuminated all the time. If i play TV through the magnavox 515h dvr, with the AV cables, all the dolby flickering is gone, the dolby liight is out, but I get nice sound out of the stereo.

Basically I wish I hadn't upgraded to the new TV. Working with the STB was easier than this. I hate the new technology.
Maybe we just need to ween you away from those SD channels. Doesn't your service provider duplicate most if not all of their SD content on an HD channel?
Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)
vickyg2003
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Post by vickyg2003 »

eferz wrote:
vickyg2003 wrote:On the HD channels the sound is spectacular the dolby light is illuminated all the time. If i play TV through the magnavox 515h dvr, with the AV cables, all the dolby flickering is gone, the dolby liight is out, but I get nice sound out of the stereo.

Basically I wish I hadn't upgraded to the new TV. Working with the STB was easier than this. I hate the new technology.
Maybe we just need to ween you away from those SD channels. Doesn't your service provider duplicate most if not all of their SD content on an HD channel?
Nope, WOW sends SD basic cable and 8 HD local channels in clear QAM. I like the HD a lot, but I'm not willing to pay for it. My internet + basic cable is 59 a month and I'm not willing to pay 1 cent more. Don't forget I'm paying for my unused comcast in FLorida too. I can't cancel because its in my monthly dues.
Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.

Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
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