I just got a replacement for my old silver Comcast remote, and this is one of the "xfinity" branded jobs with the red "ok" button. For the life of me, I can't get it to be recognized by IR.
This new remote has a 983 blink-back of 2556 - I haven't found mention of this code anywhere. Also, the model # on the sticker inside of the battery compartment is 1067CBC4-0001-R. My previous remotes have had "JP1.2" stamped on the circuit board next to the connector, but this one only indicates the position of pins 1,2,5 & 6.
I picked up a USB JP1.2-1.3 cable from diygadget for the sole purpose of working on this remote, but IR gives me a no-go on the interface check. (Note: drivers are installed and the new cable works fine with the old remote)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
255602 Comcast URC-1067CBC4
Interesting! The 2556 signature strongly implies that this is a JP2 remote. We have support for JP2 remotes, but we will likely have to generate a new RDF file for your remote.
Start by upgrading RMIR to 2.02 Beta 1.5v, following the instructions in this post. Then do a Raw Download from your remote and post it here in the File Section, Diagnosis Area.
Start by upgrading RMIR to 2.02 Beta 1.5v, following the instructions in this post. Then do a Raw Download from your remote and post it here in the File Section, Diagnosis Area.
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vickyg2003
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I wonder if this remote is going to support keymoves (994) out of the box.
Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.
Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
I am still having difficulty connecting to the remote; RMIR 2.02 Beta 1.5v reports, "No remotes found!" when attempting a raw download.
I'm on Win7 64-bit - is the issue the fact that I'm 64 bit?
I installed the Java version of 2.02 Beta, updated it with the 1.5v files, and have tried the jp12serial.dll file from the 1.5v archive (37k) as well as the final jp12serial019.zip (34k).
I'm on Win7 64-bit - is the issue the fact that I'm 64 bit?
I installed the Java version of 2.02 Beta, updated it with the 1.5v files, and have tried the jp12serial.dll file from the 1.5v archive (37k) as well as the final jp12serial019.zip (34k).
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vickyg2003
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turner3d,
I can't help you with your connection problems, however I am curious about these new xfinity remotes.
Could you please answer a couple of questions for me?
1) If you press the TV button, and then press the menu button, which LED lights up, the TV or the Cable?
2) I want to know if this remote accepts keymoves. If you do a long press of the Setup button (2blinks) and then type in 994, do you get two blinks, or one long blink?
Thankyou
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BTW Did you use this cable on your old Comcast remote, or did you buy it just for this use?
The three most common reasons I have problems with my JP1.2/3 cable are
1) weak batteries, for downloading I usually need a little more than 1.5v in my alkaline batteries to get a reliable download.
2) having only 3 of the 6 pins captured by the connector. This happens to me more than I care to admit.
3) bad orientation, my JP1 cable has pin 1 marked with a little hole, the remote has pin 1 marked with a 1 or a little notch in the box. I always check this because the orientation of the JP1 connector varies with the style of remote.
I can't help you with your connection problems, however I am curious about these new xfinity remotes.
Could you please answer a couple of questions for me?
1) If you press the TV button, and then press the menu button, which LED lights up, the TV or the Cable?
2) I want to know if this remote accepts keymoves. If you do a long press of the Setup button (2blinks) and then type in 994, do you get two blinks, or one long blink?
Thankyou
-----------------------------------------
BTW Did you use this cable on your old Comcast remote, or did you buy it just for this use?
The three most common reasons I have problems with my JP1.2/3 cable are
1) weak batteries, for downloading I usually need a little more than 1.5v in my alkaline batteries to get a reliable download.
2) having only 3 of the 6 pins captured by the connector. This happens to me more than I care to admit.
3) bad orientation, my JP1 cable has pin 1 marked with a little hole, the remote has pin 1 marked with a 1 or a little notch in the box. I always check this because the orientation of the JP1 connector varies with the style of remote.
If you can read from a standard JP1.3 remote, then that strongly implies that the 64 bit OS is not the problem.
We don't have a lot of experience using USB interface cables that use the Prolific chipset for JP2 communication. Here's a thread where we may not have succeeded in getting it to work.
Please try to use JP2Sniffer as an alternate way of getting communication. It doesn't use a dll, and while it basically uses the same sequences to set up communication, there are some differences, and anything the remote sends will be displayed. Some JP2 remotes send a series of bytes in response to the interface being plugged in. We're looking for any kind of response.
We don't have a lot of experience using USB interface cables that use the Prolific chipset for JP2 communication. Here's a thread where we may not have succeeded in getting it to work.
Please try to use JP2Sniffer as an alternate way of getting communication. It doesn't use a dll, and while it basically uses the same sequences to set up communication, there are some differences, and anything the remote sends will be displayed. Some JP2 remotes send a series of bytes in response to the interface being plugged in. We're looking for any kind of response.
vickyg2003:
1) If you press the TV button, and then press the menu button, which LED lights up, the TV or the Cable? - TV
2) If you do a long press of the Setup button (2blinks) and then type in 994, do you get two blinks, or one long blink? - 2 blinks
3FG:
I'm not sure I've ever read from a JP1.3 remote; my old Comcast remote is 1.2, and it works fine. (not sure if 1.2 or 1.3 makes a difference)
JP2Sniffer is definitely doing some communicating with many behaviours matching the other thread you mentioned. These are my results from tinkering in the "Low Level" tab:
Plugging in the cable: 00 00
Begin Comm: 00 02 51 53 00 20 02 00 (remote's buttons become unresponsive)
GetInfo: 00 02 50 52 00 10 03 11 E1 D5 00
GetSigBlk (D500): 00 06 01 D5 00 00 2C FE 00 09 BF D5 DD 9F EB BD EF E9 4F D7 FB FF 69 FE 81 FA 01 1F F4 DD 7C 37 71 5C 7D 45 A4 F9 FE 60 11 83 00 (GetSigBlk failed to return full length)
GetSigBlk (62CC): 00 06 01 62 CC 00 2C 85 00 09 CC 4A 8F 66 E6 5A 15 4F 0B 6B 7A 89 0B D9 4A 8F C4 31 A1 EB 0E 14 0B 6C 7A 89 21 15 5A 9F 4F 10 CA 00 (GetSigBlk failed to return full length)
End Comm: 00 02 52 50 00 00 (remote's buttons become responsive again)
1) If you press the TV button, and then press the menu button, which LED lights up, the TV or the Cable? - TV
2) If you do a long press of the Setup button (2blinks) and then type in 994, do you get two blinks, or one long blink? - 2 blinks
3FG:
I'm not sure I've ever read from a JP1.3 remote; my old Comcast remote is 1.2, and it works fine. (not sure if 1.2 or 1.3 makes a difference)
JP2Sniffer is definitely doing some communicating with many behaviours matching the other thread you mentioned. These are my results from tinkering in the "Low Level" tab:
Plugging in the cable: 00 00
Begin Comm: 00 02 51 53 00 20 02 00 (remote's buttons become unresponsive)
GetInfo: 00 02 50 52 00 10 03 11 E1 D5 00
GetSigBlk (D500): 00 06 01 D5 00 00 2C FE 00 09 BF D5 DD 9F EB BD EF E9 4F D7 FB FF 69 FE 81 FA 01 1F F4 DD 7C 37 71 5C 7D 45 A4 F9 FE 60 11 83 00 (GetSigBlk failed to return full length)
GetSigBlk (62CC): 00 06 01 62 CC 00 2C 85 00 09 CC 4A 8F 66 E6 5A 15 4F 0B 6B 7A 89 0B D9 4A 8F C4 31 A1 EB 0E 14 0B 6C 7A 89 21 15 5A 9F 4F 10 CA 00 (GetSigBlk failed to return full length)
End Comm: 00 02 52 50 00 00 (remote's buttons become responsive again)
Last edited by turner3d on Tue Nov 27, 2012 9:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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vickyg2003
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thanks
Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.
Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
This doesn't look too promising. The remote does seem to be receiving and recognizing commands. However, the data read from the remote is generally wrong.
For example, the response to 00 02 51 53 should be 00 02 00 02. The response to GetInfo should be 00 06 00 XX XX XX XX XX (6 bytes following 00 06, error code 00, data XX XX XX XX, check sum XX). Instead 00 10 03 11 E1 D5 00 was read. In response to Get Sig a long series of bytes was read, and this is strong evidence that the remote understood the GetSig command. But the response should start 00 2E 00.
As you've seen, this is similar behavior to the 8820 remote tried earlier with a DIY interface. I've looked at the specs for the Samsung (for which the DIY interface generally works) and Maxim processors (where it apparently does not work), and there doesn't seem to be any significant difference in the input and output voltage levels. On the other hand, we don't know the circuit diagram of the DIY interface, and there may be some aspect that is incompatible with the Maxim processor. I don't know.
I have an Atlas 1056B03, which probably has an serial interface identical to yours. I can download/upload even without batteries in the remote, because Tommy's cable delivers power from the USb port. Perhaps the DIY interface is different in some way related to power. I would try to read from the remote with the batteries removed. Also, some computers severely limit the current the USB port can deliver, so it may be worthwhile to try a different USB port-- perhaps at the back of the computer.
Otherwise, I don't know whether the DIY interface can be made to work.
For example, the response to 00 02 51 53 should be 00 02 00 02. The response to GetInfo should be 00 06 00 XX XX XX XX XX (6 bytes following 00 06, error code 00, data XX XX XX XX, check sum XX). Instead 00 10 03 11 E1 D5 00 was read. In response to Get Sig a long series of bytes was read, and this is strong evidence that the remote understood the GetSig command. But the response should start 00 2E 00.
As you've seen, this is similar behavior to the 8820 remote tried earlier with a DIY interface. I've looked at the specs for the Samsung (for which the DIY interface generally works) and Maxim processors (where it apparently does not work), and there doesn't seem to be any significant difference in the input and output voltage levels. On the other hand, we don't know the circuit diagram of the DIY interface, and there may be some aspect that is incompatible with the Maxim processor. I don't know.
I have an Atlas 1056B03, which probably has an serial interface identical to yours. I can download/upload even without batteries in the remote, because Tommy's cable delivers power from the USb port. Perhaps the DIY interface is different in some way related to power. I would try to read from the remote with the batteries removed. Also, some computers severely limit the current the USB port can deliver, so it may be worthwhile to try a different USB port-- perhaps at the back of the computer.
Otherwise, I don't know whether the DIY interface can be made to work.
It does work with the batteries removed via USB power, but gives the exact same results. I'm starting to think I wasted $28 on the diy interface for a free remote.
I also discovered that my earlier report of a 2556 blink-back code may be incorrect; it seems to respond to a request for a 5th digit, returning a 2. If this is the case, the blink-back code would 25562?
I also discovered that my earlier report of a 2556 blink-back code may be incorrect; it seems to respond to a request for a 5th digit, returning a 2. If this is the case, the blink-back code would 25562?
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Mark Pierson
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255602 Comcast URC-1067CBC4
This old timer needs help!
Just got a new Comcast DVR and it came with a URC-1067CBC4 remote. It has the red OK/Select button and a JP1 header installed. I can't be sure but it looks like the PCB is marked JP1 just below the header.
Anyway, I fired up RMIR and tried to download but get "No RDF matches signature starting 2556". I did a raw download and need some assistance on what to do next.
Is this a new remote in need of a new RDF or am I that far out of touch with JP1 that I don't remember anything?
Just got a new Comcast DVR and it came with a URC-1067CBC4 remote. It has the red OK/Select button and a JP1 header installed. I can't be sure but it looks like the PCB is marked JP1 just below the header.
Anyway, I fired up RMIR and tried to download but get "No RDF matches signature starting 2556". I did a raw download and need some assistance on what to do next.
Is this a new remote in need of a new RDF or am I that far out of touch with JP1 that I don't remember anything?
Mark
Well, as the old saw goes, you "probably have forgotten more about JP1 than most people will ever know", but that doesn't mean you're out of touch!
Anyway, we've seen this remote once before, but didn't get far enough to have an RDF. Please do check the signature via 983 to make sure we're talking about the same remote.
It is a JP2 remote (I think), and you'll need RMIR 2.02a to talk to it. JP2 remotes use the Maxim MAXQ610 micro, and we have had success using FTDI and transistor interfaces with them. Interfaces using the Prolific chipset (e.g. DIY Gadget) have been problematic.
Anyway we need to get a Raw Download, and macro/keymoves to find out the button numbers.
Anyway, we've seen this remote once before, but didn't get far enough to have an RDF. Please do check the signature via 983 to make sure we're talking about the same remote.
It is a JP2 remote (I think), and you'll need RMIR 2.02a to talk to it. JP2 remotes use the Maxim MAXQ610 micro, and we have had success using FTDI and transistor interfaces with them. Interfaces using the Prolific chipset (e.g. DIY Gadget) have been problematic.
Anyway we need to get a Raw Download, and macro/keymoves to find out the button numbers.
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Mark Pierson
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A bit rusty... just like the Tin Man.3FG wrote:Well, as the old saw goes, you "probably have forgotten more about JP1 than most people will ever know", but that doesn't mean you're out of touch!
2556Anyway, we've seen this remote once before, but didn't get far enough to have an RDF. Please do check the signature via 983 to make sure we're talking about the same remote.
RMIR 2.03 Alpha 11 and Tommy's latest JP1.x Flash interface.It is a JP2 remote (I think), and you'll need RMIR 2.02a to talk to it. JP2 remotes use the Maxim MAXQ610 micro, and we have had success using FTDI and transistor interfaces with them. Interfaces using the Prolific chipset (e.g. DIY Gadget) have been problematic.
Raw download linked above (https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=11747)Anyway we need to get a Raw Download, and macro/keymoves to find out the button numbers.
Also got your PM but may not have time until the weekend.
Mark