binky123 wrote:eferz,
google nokia ca-42 pinout. I found a pic that had the cable colors matched to RS232 signals and it doesn't seem to have DTS or RTS. RX,TX,GND,+3.3v are there along with 2 N/C.
Doh! I actually already sent the cable to Tommy.
But is this the sort of example you were referring?
Stealing any ideas I could from eferz and mdavej, I have published an article HERE on how to build a 5-pin adapter for using a flash interface with a URC-8820 remote.
Tommy Tyler wrote:Stealing any ideas I could from eferz and mdavej, I have published an article HERE on how to build a 5-pin adapter for using a flash interface with a URC-8820 remote.
This one cracks me up. I was expecting a cable adapter, but this is even simpler!
Rob www.hifi-remote.com Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
I just finished building 3 cables using Tommy's excellent instructions. Here was my cost, including shipping for all 3. I didn't count the heat shrink since I always have a load of all sizes on hand.
$12.89 (3 phone cables from Deal Extreame)
$1.42 (10 ft USB cable from MonoPrice)
$10.51 (5 connectors from Digi-Key)
------
$24.82 (Total for parts for 3 cables)
$8.27 each
The hardest part of the whole process was getting the strain relief off of the original cable. I ended up using Tommy's suggested method this way:
Cut the cable a few inches from the strain relief
Pull each of the 3 individual wires out one at a time
With pliers, tug each direction on the short (inner) end of the cable just to free it up as much as possible
Apply heat gun to the inner part of the strain relief (where the cable probably tore off in the prior step)
Twist and pull the strain relief
To my surprise, the cable pulled out clean. My finished cables looked very professional, much better than they would have if I had to figure it all out by myself.
* Although apparently only three wires are coming out of the cable, there were in my gadget actually four inside, just that the forth was cut with the end of the isolation. I.e., no need to buy another cable.
* Following the instructions, when shrinking there was melted glue coming out through the holes of the JP1 connector, rending it unusable. The remedy was to put a male plug into the connector before turning on the "dragons breath", to protect the holes from the glue.
I still had the discarded cable removed from the ones I got from DealExtreme. I cut one at the halfway point and checked. Still only 3 wires, so obviously YMMV.
Great tip on putting a male connector in while heat shrinking. I started the heat at the square end and after shrinking it tight, worked my way along the heat shrink, so didn't have that problem. If I do any more, I will use your idea as well.
There's bad news and good news. First the bad news. I am totally disgusted with the Nokia Flash Interface concept and regret ever publishing instructions for building it. I have tried every way possible to correspond with Chinese merchants and manufacturers to try and verify a reliable source for the unique version of CA-42 that works. I've sent illustrated e-mails to the stores in eBay. I've sent illustrated e-mails to members of the Made-in-China organization requesting quantity quotes, trying to emulate as best I can the broken English they use in their correspondence. I've posted in the DealExtreme forum that promises help. Not one reply in the past month. For a culture that's always on the lookout for a way to make a buck, you'ld think we were at war with them. So I'm posting this final note recommending against trying to build this interface unless you just love to gamble.
Now the good news. I've published an article HERE that shows an easier way to build a better interface. It costs a little more than Nokia, but less than the price I had to charge at my store. It's built like a battleship and uses the FTDI chip and drivers we've learned to love. And it takes even less technical skill to build than the Nokia. You don't even need a soldering iron. Ah, but best of all, it puts an end to waiting for weeks and weeks for parts to arrive by mail from those fly-by-night merchants in Hong Kong or China.
Thank you very much Tommy for publishing your guides. As described in other postings, I tried cables from two different sources, out of which both worked. By risking being a smart-ass: what was possibly not so wise was to advertise the CA-42 solution as THE solution, the next best thing after sliced bread. Clearly the FTDI-solution is superior.
smbs wrote:Just received 2 cables ordered about 2 weeks ago
No go---they are the molded type!!!
Conclusion --dont touch DX
Steven
On looking at them again and forcing a knife as shown by Tommy in his tutorial much to my suprise I managed to open the USB covers---so my mistake DX supplied me with non moldered usb connector now I will see if it works!
Sorry to mislead
Steven
I'm getting this error. Difference with tommy's guide is I just used a idc6 cable I had here, striped one of the connectors, and soldered the cables 2 3 4 and 6 to the corresponding spots. Any idea of what I'm doing wrong?
I read through this old Nokia cellphone cable hack. It seems this is a Prolific chip based USB to serial interface, and nothing more.
Right?
There are Prolific based USB to Serial dongles available, I am using one.
If any old USB to Serial interface will work (IE, does it have to be Prolific) why do we have to make anything more than a DB9 to JP1 cable and just plug it in? It's just plain USB to serial, flash is serial programmable.
Is that about right, or is there something odd about that Nokia cable?
Come to think of it I have lots of those USB to serial dongles, if FTDI is the preferred chip I am sure I have one.
