VisionQuest LVQ-26HLD
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Too bad you don't have a laptop to bring the IR Widget and IR Scope closer to your Slingbox, so you don't have to rewire anything. That's what I ended up doing before getting JP1 remotes.alanrichey wrote:Rob already suggested that and I was hoping not to have to do it as it means relocating and rewiring things. But I guess I will have to try it
Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)
Apparently, the Harmony Link, 200, 300, 300i and some versions of the 600, 650, and 700 remotes uses the http://myharmony.com web software. All the rest seem to use the Logitech Harmony Remote software with support of the http://members.harmonyremote.com web site.eferz wrote:You can include the Harmony 200, 300, and 300i for the myharmony.com configuration. I believe it is suited for the "economy" lines of the Harmony Remotes. It makes me wonder which software does the Harmony Link (that was recently released) uses.alanrichey wrote:Tried that already and failed. It's 300 specific. So while we can exchange profiles between the 800 and my 659 or 610, the 300 seems to be a one-off special.eferz wrote:I would recommend obtaining his credentials for myharmony.com to see if you can work your magic.
Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)
So after some discussion with Logitech, and with a little perserverance and a very helpful rep, I got them to transfer the code from the 300 profile to my 880. He said they don't normally do that so I guess I'm lucky in that regards. Soon, I will try some of the buttons out and see if it works.
Thanks for all the help from this forum. You guys have been amazing and I value the effort especially from eferz. Will get back to you guys and let you know the results.
Thanks for all the help from this forum. You guys have been amazing and I value the effort especially from eferz. Will get back to you guys and let you know the results.
Just tried and unfortunately it didn't work. I tried some of the other keys and still no luck. So back to square one. Originally, the remote was definitely broken (I did the digital camera trick and saw no sensor), but now I am wondering if coincidentally the sensor broke too. Would definitely be an interesting coincidence. Of course its entiresly possible the 19" TV opeartes on a different remote than the 26" TV.
How insane is it that a TV becomes useless when no remote is found to operate it.
How insane is it that a TV becomes useless when no remote is found to operate it.
After the fiasco with Logitech they finally agreed to give me a customer loyalty discount. Since, my original remote broke just a few days after my warranty expired and there's no way for them to fix the account.mdavej wrote:Right, but the 600/650/700/One+ can still use both. All new remotes including the link use myharmony, which is a shame considering it's extremely limited capabilities.
Now I have a 50% off coupon to purchase a Harmony remote from the Logitech site but I can't use it on discounted items. I was considering buying the Harmony One, but I don't think I need another remote. The coupon expires in 30 days, I have till then to decide if I want to use it. Oh bother.
You're welcome. Glad I could help, sorry it didn't work out though.czemel wrote:Thanks for all the help from this forum. You guys have been amazing and I value the effort especially from eferz. Will get back to you guys and let you know the results.
Just tried and unfortunately it didn't work. I tried some of the other keys and still no luck. So back to square one.
The Digital Camera trick will only help you see the IR Blaster when its fires a signal. You can't use it to test a sensor. To bad you didn't have something like an IR war dialer.czemel wrote:Originally, the remote was definitely broken (I did the digital camera trick and saw no sensor), but now I am wondering if coincidentally the sensor broke too. Would definitely be an interesting coincidence. Of course its entiresly possible the 19" TV opeartes on a different remote than the 26" TV.
Unfortunately, it is more common than you think.czemel wrote:How insane is it that a TV becomes useless when no remote is found to operate it.
Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)
Sorry, I meant to say no signal was getting fired from the remote. No clue as far as the sensor is concerned. Thanks again.eferz wrote:
The Digital Camera trick will only help you see the IR Blaster when its fires a signal. You can't use it to test a sensor. To bad you didn't have something like an IR war dialer.
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The Robman
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Hopefully now you can see the value in having a JP1 learning remote so you can capture the signals from your original remote, before it breaks. Maybe it's time to make the investment.czemel wrote:How insane is it that a TV becomes useless when no remote is found to operate it.
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
Or you can get an IR widget and any JP1 remote. Which is my preference, because then you're not limited to the choices of "learning remotes".The Robman wrote:Hopefully now you can see the value in having a JP1 learning remote so you can capture the signals from your original remote, before it breaks. Maybe it's time to make the investment.czemel wrote:How insane is it that a TV becomes useless when no remote is found to operate it.
Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)
Ya. Certainly. More importantly, the importance of taking a backup of your current remotes IR commands. Had I planned for that, I could of even used my Harmony remote to do that. Lessons are always learned the hard way...The Robman wrote:Hopefully now you can see the value in having a JP1 learning remote so you can capture the signals from your original remote, before it breaks. Maybe it's time to make the investment.czemel wrote:How insane is it that a TV becomes useless when no remote is found to operate it.
I have a question for all you wonderful protocol writers. Would it be possible to create a version of the NEC protocol where the OBC and Sub-Device exchanged its functionality in Remote Master? The idea is to keep the OBC as fixed digit but allow the sub-devices to be programmed in the functions tab. This would empower czemel (provided he gets a JP1 remote and cable) with the ability to upload a minimum amount of different upgrades to "war dial" the NEC IR protocol.The Robman wrote:Hopefully now you can see the value in having a JP1 learning remote so you can capture the signals from your original remote, before it breaks. Maybe it's time to make the investment.
Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)
Yes, that's possible. However, let's think about what may be needed. A conventional NEC signal has a device number, a subdevice, and an OBC, each of which take on 256 possible values. In the absence of any knowledge about the desired signals, there's 65536 combinations to try, even if you assume that you can correctly guess a functioning OBC.
In this case, howver, we suspect that the device number is 0 and the subdevice is unknown. So an upgrade using the NEC Combo executor can have the device set to 0 and have perhaps 60 subdevices for a single chosen OBC. If that doesn't work then we can decide whether to choose a different OBC or different device number and try again.
I think a custom executor would only really help if we had a candidate set of device.subdevice pairs with an assumed functioning OBC. Even then if the candidate set of d.s contains 4 pairs, then the NEC 4DEV Combo would serve, and allow one to try a variety of OBCs.
In this case, howver, we suspect that the device number is 0 and the subdevice is unknown. So an upgrade using the NEC Combo executor can have the device set to 0 and have perhaps 60 subdevices for a single chosen OBC. If that doesn't work then we can decide whether to choose a different OBC or different device number and try again.
I think a custom executor would only really help if we had a candidate set of device.subdevice pairs with an assumed functioning OBC. Even then if the candidate set of d.s contains 4 pairs, then the NEC 4DEV Combo would serve, and allow one to try a variety of OBCs.
I recorded a few different profiles and couldn't really find much consistency, except for the three of the five that use the NEC1 protocol and 0.249 device all had the same OBC codes for the directional pad. One of them used NEC1 protocol and 8 device while the other used RC5 and device 0.3FG wrote:Yes, that's possible. However, let's think about what may be needed. A conventional NEC signal has a device number, a subdevice, and an OBC, each of which take on 256 possible values. In the absence of any knowledge about the desired signals, there's 65536 combinations to try, even if you assume that you can correctly guess a functioning OBC.
In this case, howver, we suspect that the device number is 0 and the subdevice is unknown. So an upgrade using the NEC Combo executor can have the device set to 0 and have perhaps 60 subdevices for a single chosen OBC. If that doesn't work then we can decide whether to choose a different OBC or different device number and try again.
I think a custom executor would only really help if we had a candidate set of device.subdevice pairs with an assumed functioning OBC. Even then if the candidate set of d.s contains 4 pairs, then the NEC 4DEV Combo would serve, and allow one to try a variety of OBCs.
- Vision Quest LVQ-26HLA: https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=10120
- Vision Quest LVQ32HLA: https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=10121
- Vision Quest LVQ-42HLB: https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=10122
- Vision Quest LVQ-32EF1A: https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=10123
Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)