JP1 Remotes

I have a remote controlled Adcom GTP-550 (tuner/preamp) and my Motorola DCH6416 cable set-top box is remote controlled by a Universal Electronics Atlas OCAP-5 "universal - learning" remote. The problem is they don't talk to each other. I suspect they are working at different frequencies, but there could be other problems.

The web site for the UE OCAP-5 does not list the device code for ANYBODY's pre-amp., only A/V receivers. That further leads me to speculate that the TV people and the remote control high end audio worlds went in different directions (using different frequencies) several years ago and we are having a bitch of time programming our supposedly "universal" remotes to operate our (slightly higher end) audio equipment.

Any help you can offer me would be greatly appreciated. If I have to buy a different preamp, I will. But I will never stuff an integrated A/V receiver into my otherwise high end (tubes, electrostatic speakers) system.

Wow! What a rant! You sound almost Obama-esque in your elitism.

I wonder how you came to such a conclusion (about different frequencies)? Perhaps you don't have a built-in setup code for your pre-amp, but your remote can certainly generate the required signal. There is an upgrade for an ADCOM preamp (GTP-500) in the upgrade area which I would bet will operate your preamp from your Atlas remote, but you need to get a JP1.2 cable and read the beginner's readme's about using the JP1 tools available on this site.

"elitism"?
You obviously don't know any audiophiles. I don't know of a one who would ever own a receiver. They are a miserable, unnecessary audio compromise compared to separate pre- & power amps, not to mention the fact my varying low impedance electrostats would fry it in short order. I have used a pair of 300 watt (stereo, using one side only for ea. speaker) Adcom power amps for the last 25 years without a hitch, but only for TV audio. For serious listening, I have an Audio Research D-250 servo (tubes). But a set of 36 matched quads Gold Lion KT-88s would set me back many $K. So, I save their limited life (approx. 3000 hrs) for LPs & DVD-audio.

If you don't know what a KT-88 is, Google it.

I think I downloaded the GTP-502.ccf upgrade setup code (JP-1 file?) to my hard drive, but haven't a clue how to upload it into my OCAP 1056B01-L (JP-1.3) remote. I don't have the proper cable either - looks like a 6-pin female-mini on one one end and probably a USB on the other. I wonder what level of operating system must be running the computer to achieve a successful transfer.

As they have different setup codes for the 500, 501 & 502 preamps, why would one for the 550 tuner/preamp be the same? Maybe it is. Can't work worse than the nothing it does now.

That's why I'm a beginner. I like to ask questions.

collinsdean wrote:"elitism"?
You obviously don't know any audiophiles. I don't know of a one who would ever own a receiver. They are a miserable, unnecessary audio compromise compared to separate pre- & power amps, not to mention the fact my varying low impedance electrostats would fry it in short order. I have used a pair of 300 watt (stereo, using one side only for ea. speaker) Adcom power amps for the last 25 years without a hitch, but only for TV audio. For serious listening, I have an Audio Research D-250 servo (tubes). But a set of 36 matched quads Gold Lion KT-88s would set me back many $K. So, I save their limited life (approx. 3000 hrs) for LPs & DVD-audio.

If you don't know what a KT-88 is, Google it.

collinsdean wrote:I think I downloaded the GTP-502.ccf upgrade setup code (JP-1 file?) to my hard drive, but haven't a clue how to upload it into my OCAP 1056B01-L (JP-1.3) remote. I don't have the proper cable either - looks like a 6-pin female-mini on one one end and probably a USB on the other. I wonder what level of operating system must be running the computer to achieve a successful transfer.

As they have different setup codes for the 500, 501 & 502 preamps, why would one for the 550 tuner/preamp be the same? Maybe it is. Can't work worse than the nothing it does now.

That's why I'm a beginner. I like to ask questions.

Hehehe, we're very familiar with search engines and Google here but thank you for the help anyway. JP1 is a niche hobby so there's not many websites devoted but the few that there are have enormous amounts of info. Once Google gets you in the door, dump Google and use the search function belonging to the site itself. This site for example has all the indepth answers to your questions, mostly in stickys either in the beginner's section or the general section. Your questions don't have simple yes/no answers. You may have the feeling that you're way ahead of us here but looking around a bit and you will find most of your questions have been asked before, especially concerning getting started. BTW, we have no problem with audiophiles and in fact many of us here are. The same thing goes for "questions". Hacking remote controls started with the curiousity/questions of our founding members and following through with lots of work. Welcome aboard Dean.

I forget what a ccf is for but it's not the one you need for this conversation.

This is the file you need: https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=5523

Help yourself to the "Beginners - PLEASE read this thread first" sticky, 4th post in the beginner's section.
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1009
It has all you need to get started programming your remote including links to the necessary Windows programs.

According to the chart here, It seems like AUD/0616 is a match for Adcom devices listed in that chart. Unfortunately, that setup code is not in Atlas OCAP (oddly, it is in the older versions of the Atlas 5 remotes, though).

If you have JP1.2 cable, you can use this file to upload to your remote.

If you don't, you should be able to use AUD/0577 to program in advanced codes. Essentially, that code will not have any buttons programmed correctly for your remote. However, it does use the same protocol as your device and you can use it to program in all the functions for your device using advanced codes.

To do this, first set the setup code for the audio device to 0577. Then to program in each function do the following. As an example to program in volume up:

1. Press and release AUD
2. Press and hold SETUP until the remote blinks twice
3. Type 994
4. Press and release SETUP
5. Type 00112
6. Press and release Vol+ button
The remote should blink twice, and the Vol+ should now work. Test it before doing the other functions.

If the above works, to add the rest of the of functions, repeat steps 2-6 and use the following codes in step 5, and press the button you want the assign that function to in step 6:

vol up = 00112
vol down = 00113
bal check = 00101
center- = 00103
center+ = 00231
rear- = 00107
rear+ = 00235
sub vr+ = 00111
sub vr- = 00110
surround mode = 00106
delay = 00228
power = 00189
mute = 00191
video 1 = 00188
video 2 = 00192
video 3 = 00190
video 4 = 00194
cd = 00061
tuner = 00065
tape1 = 00063
tape2 = 00067
tuning+ = 00060
tuning- = 00064
shift = 00062
am/fm = 00066
preset 1 = 00125
preset 2 = 00129
preset 3 = 00127
preset 4 = 00131
preset 5 = 00124
preset 6 = 00128
preset 7 = 00126
preset 8 = 00130

As you can see, it's much easier with a JP1.2 cable, but it can be done without it if you really want.

BTW, most IR remotes, whether lowest end TV or high end audio work within a range of frequencies that most learning remotes can learn (I believe B&O is one of the rare exception). In fact, Adcom devices are using a very common NEC IR protocol that are used in many types of AV devices, and is quite common among inexpensive no-name brand TVs.

collinsdean wrote:I think I downloaded the GTP-502.ccf upgrade setup code (JP-1 file?) to my hard drive, but haven't a clue how to upload it into my OCAP 1056B01-L (JP-1.3) remote.

You can't. That is a Pronto file, and you did not find it on this site. However, tools are available to extract JP1 information from Pronto CCF files.

As to how to upload JP1 files to your remote,

Capn Trips wrote:...and read the beginner's readme's about using the JP1 tools available on this site.

(LINK TO ABOVE)

collinsdean wrote:I don't have the proper cable either - looks like a 6-pin female-mini on one one end and probably a USB on the other.

Capn Trips wrote:...you need to get a JP1.2 cable...

JP1.2 (or JP1.x) cables are available with serial or USB interfaces. Several vendors offer them. See the Marketplace area of the forum.

collinsdean wrote:I wonder what level of operating system must be running the computer to achieve a successful transfer.

I use mine on Windows 95, Windows 98, Windows 98SE, Windows 2000, Windows XP and Windows Vista. Some (not all) of the USB cables may have a problem with Vista. I haven't tried it with Windows v3.1. Some people have done it on a Mac running Windows.

collinsdean wrote:As they have different setup codes for the 500, 501 & 502 preamps, why would one for the 550 tuner/preamp be the same?

It's quite common for manufacturers to use the same code sets on many models. That said, it is less common on higher-end equipment like Adcom. The only way to tell is to try them all. If that does not work, and you are unable to locate any Pronto files for your model, then the only option may be to learn the buttons from the original remote using a learning JP1.x remote and use the JP1 tools to decode the learned functions.

Some Atlas OCAP remotes have learning capability, but most don't. If your does not, then you might have to purchase one for the purpose.

collinsdean wrote:The web site for the UE OCAP-5 does not list the device code for ANYBODY's pre-amp.

That's not surprising, as the Atlas remotes are made specifically for cable companies. I doubt that the target customer for the average cable company has any idea what a KT88 is (or an EL84 or a 5881 or a 12AX7 for that matter). However, the Atlas remote is upgradable, and using the JP1 tools you should be able to make it control almost any IR controlled device.

kupakai wrote:In fact, Adcom devices are using a very common NEC IR protocol that are used in many types of AV devices, and is quite common among inexpensive no-name brand TVs.

I think you may be correct about this for the majority of the Adcom devices, but there do seem to be exceptions. A couple of upgrades in the files section are using Aiwa and F12 protocols.

collinsdean wrote:"elitism"?
You obviously don't know any audiophiles. I don't know of a one who would ever own a receiver. They are a miserable, unnecessary audio compromise compared to separate pre- & power amps, not to mention the fact my varying low impedance electrostats would fry it in short order. I have used a pair of 300 watt (stereo, using one side only for ea. speaker) Adcom power amps for the last 25 years without a hitch, but only for TV audio. For serious listening, I have an Audio Research D-250 servo (tubes). But a set of 36 matched quads Gold Lion KT-88s would set me back many $K. So, I save their limited life (approx. 3000 hrs) for LPs & DVD-audio.

If you don't know what a KT-88 is, Google it.

By the way, whether or not I know any audiophiles is immaterial, what is germane is your condescending attitude when YOU are the one seeking assistance (which, in case you hadn't noticed, both I and several others have offered plenty of).

Welcome to the world of JP1, if you deign to enter.