JP1 Remotes

Hi,
I have two remotes 8811, and i have a problem with my two remotes when my hair-drier blower heater running.

I bought another hair-drier and i have a same problem. I tried with a brother`s hair-drier and a same things !

A problem is this: while hair-drier running my Pionner receiver, satellite decoder echostar 5100, satellite decoder echostar 5900, DVD JVC, TV JVC and VCR JVC don`t works with my two remote 8811.

When my hair-drier is off, all my components run OK with my remote.

Does you have a hint for this ?

Hint? Stop blow dryig your hair while you're watching TV!

Seriously though, I've never heard of such a thing. Does the same thing happen when you use the original remotes? If it does, the problem is not in the URC-8811 remotes, but is either in your devices or your electricity.

If the original remotes still work, but the URC-8811s don't, then it could be that the 8811s signal isn't strong enough to penetrate whatever interference your hair dryer is putting out.

The Robman wrote: If it does, the problem is not in the URC-8811 remotes, but is either in your devices or your electricity.

With my Echostar product an original remote run, but its run with a FM signal ! for others components don't run !

I will try with my Honda generator or my Back UPS...

Then the problem isn't with the URC-8811s specifically. Does it make a difference which socket you have the hair drier plugged into?

The Robman wrote:Then the problem isn't with the URC-8811s specifically. Does it make a difference which socket you have the hair drier plugged into?

I tested on several socket, but not all, and I have the same problem

I tried with on old remote ONKIO that I bought 15 years ago, and i have a same problem.

I just tried to connect my hair-drier on my BackUPS and a same problem.

I found a solution:
In my Area, each house have a MainBreaker.
A main breaker is connected on 220V on the supplier of electricity with 3 wire, two for the current and one for the neutral. 110V on a phase, and 110V on another phase. Note that a fourth wire is a ground

On a main breaker, each circuit breaker are laid out on two columns.

On each column, each breaker is alternatively laid out continuation of the other on the first cycle 110V or the second cycle 110V.

I think that the first cycle 110V is in the negative cycle, and that the second cycle 110V is in the positive cycle.

Now to regulate this problem, it is a question of connecting the hair-drier on another cycle that the components.

I tested on a socket which is on another cycle that my components, and my problem is now solved.

Thanks

Marineau wrote:I tested on a socket which is on another cycle that my components, and my problem is now solved.

Thanks

If switching to a different leg solved the problem, then there are a few things I can think of that might be wrong (yes, there's something still wrong).

1. Bad ground connection on the circuit you were either plugging the hair dryer into or the circuit the equipment is plugged into. The ground system in a house removes all kinds of interference from the system. It's one of the ways to remove static,pops,etc. from audio equipment.

2. Bad connection in one of the circuits, likely the one the audio equipment is on. Like a car starter with a bad connection, you might have enough juice to do some things, but the supply voltage could be suffering. The IR receiving circuitry might be particularly sensitive to a voltage drop (others might know this better than me).

3. It's common for two circuits from you breaker panel to share a common neutral. That is, each circuit has one 'hot' wire running out to the house but both use the same neutral wire coming back to the panel. This is ok as long as the two circuits are on separate legs (what you called cycles) of the main feed. If two 'hots' from the same leg are tied to the same neutral you'll get double the current running through that neutral which is likely too high for the size of wire. That extra current generates heat in the neutral wire which can cause a fire and also presents a pretty significant voltage drop.

I'd have an electrician go over your main panel to look for any loose connections and to make certain everything is up to code. Checking common neutrals and wire sizes for circuits should be part of that.