JP1 Remotes

Hi,

Total newbie here. I have a URC-8910 B02 remote, and I just got a Parallel JP1 cable from diygadget.com. I'm using IR.exe version 6.15 and I run Win XP Pro, SP2 with all latest updates.

I've followed the directions on the diygadget page on how to get IR.exe to talk to the remote, but no dice. (http://www.diygadget.com/jp1/simple_cable.php)

I have a Compaq Evo N610c Laptop, and there is a parallel port. I plug in cable, start up IR.exe, and then when I go to Interface, Check Interface, I get the following error:

"No reponse from interface. Make sure the interface is connected to the PC and you've specified the correct port."

I've tried all the different port addresses (Interface, Parallel, then choose each address option), and still the same error.

Also, the remote LCD display is showing "all characters" while I have the JP1 cable hooked up. Is that normal? Also, are batteries supposed to be in or out during JP1 connection? I assume IN, but instructions I followed above have pictures with batteries out. I tried both ways, neither worked.

Ideas? Thanks in advance for your help!!!

Try reversing one of the batteries in your remote for uploads/downloads. And don't necessarily waste too much time with interface tests. Just try to download from the remote. If you get two blinks from the "simluated" red LED (in the lower left corner of IR) you've communicated with the EEPROM in your remote. The "all LEDs illuminated" means that the reset signal is getting to your remote (as required). Then DISCONNECT your remote to see if that'll clear the reset signal.

The "all LEDs illuminated" just means that you have plugged in a JP1 cable, surely, since it happens even before you fire up IR. You can experiment by just shorting out a couple of pins and you get all the LCDs showing (since this is an 8910).

Laptop parallel ports can have lower voltages than desktop machines and some can't drive the interface at all (I've heard some Toshibas are bad).

Laptop parallel ports can be set up differently in BIOS (ECP, EPP etc.). I'd look to changing the settings in BIOS from whatever it is now to the other.

I tried uploading/downloading remote, and it does not communicate.

I can get "all LED's Illuminated" to clear by disconnecting JP1 cable and pressing any remote button. I was just wondering if seeing all LED's illuminated was a sign that things were not working...apparently not!

I will try adjusting the parallel port settings in the BIOS. Right now, it is set to ECP.

Any other ideas are welcome!

If you have plugged in the JP1 cable to the remote without connection to the parallel port of your laptop and you see "all LED's illuminated" too, I think there is something wrong with the cable, othwise it could be a parallel port issue.

Uwe

OK, I changed the parallel port from ECP to "bidirectional" in the BIOS (I have two other choices: Standard and EPP).

Now it appears that communication on some level is taking place, but I get this message now:

"The interface appears to have failed midway into the operation. If you are using the "simple" interface, please verify that it was constructed using 1K (Brn-Blk-Red) rather than 10K (Brn-Blk-Org) resistors. Another cause of this problem could be the use of an EEPROM larger than $8000 (the maximum size supported by IR)."

I still have to try the other settings (EPP and standard) as well, but is this a sign of progress?

If you have plugged in the JP1 cable to the remote without connection to the parallel port of your laptop and you see "all LED's illuminated" too, I think there is something wrong with the cable, othwise it could be a parallel port issue.

OK, I unplugged the cable from computer and remote. I got all LED's Illuminated to go away. I plugged JP1 cable into remote ONLY and all LED's illuminate.

Are you saying this is a problem with the cable?

I think, there is a short between pin 3 and 5 of the JP1 connector since the "all LED's illuminated" is a sign of permanent reset.

Uwe

I'm going to investigate that. When you refer to

pin 3 and 5 of the JP1 connector,

it sounds like you are referring to the six pin connector end of the JP1 cable, the one that connects to the remote.

I did not build this cable, I ordered it from diygadget. I CAN build a cable, but I figured I'd rather invest that time in reading the volumes of documentation on JP1. Now I'm taking time to troubleshoot the cable anyway!

marc_paolo1 wrote:I did not build this cable, I ordered it from diygadget. I CAN build a cable, but I figured I'd rather invest that time in reading the volumes of documentation on JP1. Now I'm taking time to troubleshoot the cable anyway!

Keep in mind that you bought a hand-made cable, so human error is bound to creep in occassionally, but as with any purchase that you make, if the item that you bought turns out to be faulty you have to decide whether it's more effort to return it for a replacement or try fixing it yourself. If you don't want to spend the time troubleshooting this cable, ask the seller for a replacement, but of course it'll take a few days for the return to reach him and then for the replacement to reach you, so if you don't want to wait, see if you can fix it yourself.

All three of the folks who sell cables here stand behind their product, so if you got a faulty one, they'll be happy to replace it.

Well, I perhaps have found the problem (with everyone's help, of course!) Looking at the instructions posted to construct the cable that I purchased, (Link: http://www.diygadget.com/jp1/simple_kit.php) it appears there is a connection missing in my cable.

Step 6 specifies to put a jumper between pins 25 and 18 of the DB25 connector. That jumper is not on my cable. I'm a little surprised, since the seller claims on his website that cables are tested before shipment.

Before I start mucking around with it (seems like an easy thing to test/fix), could that be my problem?

I built this. However, the 25-18 is not the problem, all my cable have been fully tested before I ship it. I tested all my cables on the following machines:

P4 with ASUS P4P800-E Deluxe Mother Board (desktop)
IBM T40 (laptop)

Anyways, please email to diy_gadget@yahoo.com and tell me your address, I will send you a replacement right away. Please send back the original cable to me as well.

Thanks

marc_paolo1 wrote:Well, I perhaps have found the problem (with everyone's help, of course!) Looking at the instructions posted to construct the cable that I purchased, (Link: http://www.diygadget.com/jp1/simple_kit.php) it appears there is a connection missing in my cable.

Step 6 specifies to put a jumper between pins 25 and 18 of the DB25 connector. That jumper is not on my cable. I'm a little surprised, since the seller claims on his website that cables are tested before shipment.

Before I start mucking around with it (seems like an easy thing to test/fix), could that be my problem?

If there is a wire soldered to pin 25 as described in step 14, you're probably OK. The real spec for the Simple interface calls for pins 18 thru 25 to all be shorted together, this is to allow for PCs that use a pin other that pin 25 as the grounding pin, though I believe that pin 25 is the most common grounding pin.

If you haven't done so already, you should checkout the Testing and Troubleshooting sections of the official spec for the Simple Interface.

Well, darned if putting the jumper in didn't fix it! I added the jumper (pin 25-18 ), and everything works! I was able to download from remote to IR.exe. Perhaps my laptop needs this connection in order to communicate with JP1?

I have a temporary jumper in there now, looks like I'll break out the soldering iron and add a permanent one.

If this works, is there any reason to send the cable back?

I am glad to hear that your problem has been resolved. could you please tell me the brand/model of your laptop?

thanks

marc_paolo1 wrote:Well, darned if putting the jumper in didn't fix it! I added the jumper (pin 25-18 ), and everything works! I was able to download from remote to IR.exe. Perhaps my laptop needs this connection in order to communicate with JP1?

I have a temporary jumper in there now, looks like I'll break out the soldering iron and add a permanent one.

If this works, is there any reason to send the cable back?