JP1 Remotes

Just got the remote and being the uber geek that I am I must be one with my remote! So, from what I read I do not have pins on my JP1 connector.. so I need one of the adapters or a 6 pin header soldiered on. I would rather not modify the remote at this point so what adapter do I need? The popo one?

Info please!

Yes, the pogo pin adapter is your only option if you don't want to solder in a 6 pin header.

Thanks!

If you have some soldering ability, I would recommend that you do solder in the 6-pin as it will make the remote alot easier to work with.

Here's what you need to do...

1) Apply some flux to the pads
2) Stand the 6-pin on the pads
3) Using as little solder as possible, solder the pins in place, starting with the corner pins
4) Finally, make a bed of hot glue around the base of the pins, for support

The Robman wrote:If you have some soldering ability, I would recommend that you do solder in the 6-pin as it will make the remote alot easier to work with.

Here's what you need to do...

1) Apply some flux to the pads
2) Stand the 6-pin on the pads
3) Using as little solder as possible, solder the pins in place, starting with the corner pins
4) Finally, make a bed of hot glue around the base of the pins, for support

Rob has done a few for me and I can tell you that it is well worth the effort. Holding the pogo adapter on the pads is not fun.

Thanks guys.. I don't have the uber soldering ability... Why couldn't I just hold the 6 pin header on the pads? Is it very hard without the sping loaded pins to get the proper connection?

I'll probably order the header and try that and possibly try the soldering.

harryhoudini wrote:Why couldn't I just hold the 6 pin header on the pads? Is it very hard without the sping loaded pins to get the proper connection?

It won't work, several people have tried, it's just too hard to get a good connection.

Thanks Robman... figured. I'm surprised no one has devised a simple rubber-band loop with some padding to keep either the pogo or header pressed on to the pins.. but of course, I'm speaking without having these devices in front of me.

Can't wait to start hacking.. I'm stick of the long macros to get all my components on.. and ready to integrate my x10 system too, thanks to all the help in the forums.

Off I go to order my cable!

harryhoudini wrote:Thanks Robman... figured. I'm surprised no one has devised a simple rubber-band loop with some padding to keep either the pogo or header pressed on to the pins.. but of course, I'm speaking without having these devices in front of me.

With the pogo adapter you will be relatively successful. Just using the header will fail most of the time. If you are not interested in soldering the header in I would suggest you get a piece of perf board, cut off a piece with 6 holes and enlarge the holes just enough to get the pogo pins through it. Then super glue it directly over the pads. This will help holding the pins over the pads and the pogo will take care of the downward pressure.

Rob,


Do you happen to have any pictures or instructions other than what is listed below to perform this modfication? Is their a way to take the URC 9960- BJ13 remote apart to solder as it is a very small space without taking the remote apart to work in? Please research and advise.

Thanks,

Terry

The Robman wrote:If you have some soldering ability, I would recommend that you do solder in the 6-pin as it will make the remote alot easier to work with.

Here's what you need to do...

1) Apply some flux to the pads
2) Stand the 6-pin on the pads
3) Using as little solder as possible, solder the pins in place, starting with the corner pins
4) Finally, make a bed of hot glue around the base of the pins, for support