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JP1.3 & FTDI FT232RL What Pins are actually needed?

Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 7:48 pm
by 120240VAC60HZ
Since my RadioShack 15-2116 died I am wanting to get a RCA RCRP05 JP1.3 remote to program Via USB and I want to buy a cheap FTDI adapter from eBay but my problems are

1. What pins are actually needed to program the remote? as a lot of the cheap ones only have six pins labeled

Code: Select all

VCC
GND
TXD
RXD
RTS
CTS
2. How do I connectthe adapter to the remote?

Code: Select all

JP1.3      --->         FTDI  Signal Name
Pin     
1                    
2
3
4
5
6
Thanks

Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 9:07 pm
by mdavej
See this thread for most of the ebay cable pinouts:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... &&start=75

Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 9:39 pm
by 3FG
I prefer descriptions by pin number and name, since colors can easily be changed.

Code: Select all

JP1.3      --->         FTDI  Signal Name 
Pin      
1   --------------- Not connected
2   --------------- RTS
3   --------------- Ground
4   --------------- TXD
5   --------------- Not Connected
6   --------------- RXD

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 11:07 am
by 120240VAC60HZ
3FG wrote:I prefer descriptions by pin number and name, since colors can easily be changed.

Code: Select all

JP1.3      --->         FTDI  Signal Name 
Pin      
1   --------------- Not connected
2   --------------- RTS
3   --------------- Ground
4   --------------- TXD
5   --------------- Not Connected
6   --------------- RXD
I got the remote about a week ago but I finally got the FT232RL adapter today
but I have some more questions before I actually connect it as I don't want to break anything (Obviously) :)

Here is a picture of the FTDI adapter I bought

Image

So my questions are

Is VCC set at 5V or 3.3V

Why are RXD and TXD shorted with a jumper cap?

I assume I will have to remove that as I need TXD and RXD

also which ground pin do I use? as I as I see at least 2 of them on the PCB I bought

I also have the connecting cables but they are all single pin female 2.54MM PCB header cables

I ordered the 2x3 headers (I am getting 50 of them as I could not find a seller with a reasonable price selling one or two so I bought 50)

Thanks

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 11:40 am
by mdavej
110220Volts wrote:I ordered the 2x3 headers (I am getting 50 of them as I could not find a seller with a reasonable price selling one or two so I bought 50)
This isn't reasonable?
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14952

And why did you buy that complicated one instead of the simple one everyone else buys? It's already wired and has TX/RX LEDs like yours.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330809610323

Anyway, 3.3V should work. I'm not sure about the jumper, but I'd guess you need to remove it.

Any GND should work. If you follow the traces, all are probably connected.

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 11:44 am
by 120240VAC60HZ
mdavej wrote:
110220Volts wrote:I ordered the 2x3 headers (I am getting 50 of them as I could not find a seller with a reasonable price selling one or two so I bought 50)
This isn't reasonable?
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14952
Sorry I did not even see that

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 12:12 pm
by 120240VAC60HZ
mdavej wrote:
110220Volts wrote:I ordered the 2x3 headers (I am getting 50 of them as I could not find a seller with a reasonable price selling one or two so I bought 50)
This isn't reasonable?
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14952

And why did you buy that complicated one instead of the simple one everyone else buys? It's already wired and has TX/RX LEDs like yours.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330809610323



Anyway, 3.3V should work. I'm not sure about the jumper, but I'd guess you need to remove it.

Any GND should work. If you follow the traces, all are probably connected.

I also bought one of the simple ones but I did not get that yet
I bought the complicated one just in case I ever had another project that needed all of the pins plus it was cheap :)

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 1:41 pm
by 3FG
Use 3.3 volts.

The jumper between TX and RX would typically be used to test the UART and the rest of the FTDI chip by having software send a string of characters and then checking to see if those characters were received. It is a quick way to check if both the transmitter and receiver are working. As mdavej says, you should remove it before trying to work with a remote.

BSOD Problem

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 2:55 pm
by 120240VAC60HZ
OK so I set the jumper at 3.3 Volts and triple checked the wiring

I am using remote master 2.02a (I tried IR804 which says it can't find interface but no BSOD)

I am using Windows 7 x64

I am having a problem as soon as I try to access the FTDI interface (Download from remote) I get a BSOD with a Windows Error report and a memory dump file

Is there a way to actually check the driver I installed or if my PCB I bought even is working correctly?

I installed the VCP driver and it give me a com 4 as I have a USB Modem that takes Com 3

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 3:43 pm
by mdavej
What if you specify Com4 in RM? Sounds like it may be trying Com3, finding the modem and causing the BSOD.

You may also want to try uninstalling the drivers entirely as they are already built into the OS. Who knows what's actually compatible with that hardware.

Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 1:44 pm
by 120240VAC60HZ
mdavej wrote:What if you specify Com4 in RM? Sounds like it may be trying Com3, finding the modem and causing the BSOD.

You may also want to try uninstalling the drivers entirely as they are already built into the OS. Who knows what's actually compatible with that hardware.
OK it works
I got the Simple cable and I just got the 2 x 3 header connector today so I put it together and it works. The new cable I got went to Com5 so I set it to com5 and no more BSOD

Thanks