JP1 Remotes

The URC-8040 has everything to make it ready for jp1 with the exception of the 6 pin connector. It does however, have the pads that would work with a pogo adapter. The battery retainer on the 8040 is different than that of other European Kameleons which does not lend to easy connection using the standard Kameleon adapter since the battery cover is a snap in and not a screw in.

There are 2 ways that the connection could be accomplished:

1) You could solder a short piece of a six conductor wire to the pads and solder a six pin male header on the other end. Since the battery cover needs to be in place when operating the remote you would need to leave the wire dangling out of the end to connect the cable while uploading and downloading. It could then be tucked under the battery cover when done.

2) Or you could cut a thin piece of perf board with just 6 holes enlarged as a guide for the pogo pins. Super glue this over the pads. (Using thin perf board and super glue is important since you need to make sure you leave clearance to insert and remove the batteries). You will then need to cut a hole in the battery cover for access with the pogo pins while the cover is in place. Start with a small drill and drill directly over the center of where the pad is NOTE: Don't do it with the cover in place just incase you slip. Work up to a drill the size needed for the pogo pins to pass through. You can get it close to size then use a small file to square the hole.

Either way works but I believe the perf board approach will last longer since I have already worn out a 6 wire connector.

Or you could cut a thin piece of perf board with just 6 holes enlarged as a guide for the pogo pins. Super glue this over the pads.

Good idea - stops the pins slipping off to the side.

l then need to cut a hole in the battery cover for access with the pogo pins while the cover is in place...small file to square the hole.

It occurred to me that a slightly neater result could be had by carefully marking out and drilling six tiny holes and obtaining long pogo pins to pass through them. Six little holes look like they're meant to be there rather than one larger rectangular hole. Unfortunately I couldn't find a local stockist of long pogo pins. One manufacturer on the web sells all sorts of long pins but they're gold-tipped and cost about $7 each. A bit of lateral thinking led me to order (off eBay) 8 sprung pins of the kind used to hold watch straps in place at a cost of 99pence UK including postage (about $1.80).

My plan had been to take the plunger out of one end of each watch-strap pin and insert a stiff wire into it to connect to the female JP1 plug but I found a better solution by simply taking the springs out of the pin barrels, passing them over the short side of the male header pins and holding them in place with a bit of solder each. This adaptor the plugs into the standard JP1 cable and I can take it off when I want to use the cable for a more standard remote. It would be equally possible to construct a JP1 cable with two different connectors by fitting the adaptor permanently to a header plug and crimping it on upstream of the original connector.

PS Do I win a pair of tea towels?

underquark wrote:PS Do I win a pair of tea towels?

Tea towels maybe but definitely bar towels since they give them away in Scotland anyway don't they.

By the way, it does sound like a viable solution.

The thing about this particular type of spring is that they're very stiff (or have low compliance or whatever). Must ask for a free bar towel next time I have a wee doch and dorris.




Disclaimer: although the author of this message believes that a doch and dorris is some sort of beverage, he has no firm idea of what a doch and dorris actually is and does not recommend that one be taken internally without first discussing it with your healthcare professional.

I am not sure what a "wee doch and dorris" is either but I think I might have to have one the next time I am there. I assume you would be willing to test it for me

For an alternative to pogo pins, anyone want to give the springs idea a go, Get them here (US) or here (Europe) amongst other places. Short springs best for close application to pads, long springs if you plan on passing them through drilled holes in remote case. Note that watch spring bars can be skinny or chunky; the skinny ones could be left partially intact with one of the plungers replaced by a pin connecting to the JP1 socket (my original idea) but the chunkier ones have springs that will fit over the short end of male header connectors (which actually works better with fewer components and less chance of poor electrical connection).