JP1 Remotes

lifeisfun , I don't think the location would be a problem , the local Home Theater people do it all the time (not much different than taping it to the outside of the cabinet 1/4"). Direct sunlight would be more likely to damage the detector and I've never heard of that happening.

Thanks !

So has anyone figured out a successful method of doing this WITHOUT relying on the Xantech box?

The function of the Xantech box could be duplicated with a small power supply , some resistors and a transistor. The exact values of all the parts and the circuit design would be determined by the parts you rounded up. Assuming you didn't just dismount the internal LED's and attach them to long lead wires the first thing you would do is locate some LED's and use their characteristics to design the rest of the unit.

Using the Xantech box and LED's left only the trigger method to determine. It wouldn't be a terribly difficult electronic project but some basic knowledge of transistor circuits would be helpfull.

You can get the Xantech box for under $20 on eBay

Thanks, I'll keep my eye open for one...I'd only seen them retail for around $40-$50....which one the one hand is a bit much, simply because I just bought 7 of those HTPro units on the X10 deal so I have a few spare parts to experiment with...

I'm using the CB60 ( 6 ports on it)

SilentBob,

By virtue of an 8910 base station kindly donated by MaskedMan for me to analyze, I'm finishing up an article now that will tell you everything you need to know to add "blasters" to this unit without additional power supplies, transistors, etc. Hope you can hold off spending more $ for just a little bit.

Tommy

Oops! I meant to say 9910 base station.

Including connecting IR control jacks from
AV devices that have this connection ?

Sorry, don't have any information on that. Do you have any reason to think that might be standardized among different manufacturers, instead of varying all over the map?

Well, xantech is making box that works with most manufacturers :
http://www.xantech.com/products/p_folder/p_794797.htm

If you notice they offer 14 different modules to match different brand types (and they don't even mention the Sony Control-S - 2 types, Control-T, or LANC interfaces specifically).

Most of the Sony interfaces use what looks like a remote control signal with the 40-60 Khz carrier stripped out. I can do some experimenting next week to see if I can hardwire a remote to a Control-S jack and get a unit to operate . A big problem is that the Sony control signal is bi-directional and I don't know what will happen with a uni-directional device is attached, hopefully it won't care.

Did you see the instruction manual ?
http://www.xantech.com/products/i_folder/i_794_797.pdf

I think the only difference is the supplied cable....

Well , the 794 uses 7 dip switches to select output type while the 797 does some internal selection but uses 7 interface modules to match units , as I read it. I have some ideas on a general method that might work. Some interfaces, like Sony Control-T, will probably not be readily compatible with JP1 remote, others might by filtering the carrier out. Sony had a series of console TV's that used a chip directly from a remote control that had the carrier wave stripped off for front panel controls to simplify a very long cable run. Using this method may allow direct connection to a control jack. Each remote frequency may require a different filter (hence the multiple switches and modules with Xantech).

Creating a single filter adapter might work by changing the frequency on custom upgrades. For example use a 48Khz filter and change the upgrade to 48Khz for that device instead of the correct one. After stripping the carrier the data should be correct then. I will do some research and testing this week to see if I can achieve a direct connection on Sony equipment.