JP1 Remotes

I downloaded more comprehensive doc for the Force remote from force.tv and found that I may remove learned commands too, and when i removed whatever command I had got into the 'left' key, it reverted to normal behavior. So I guess the unit is OK. Force warns against using the OFA reset code as all original coding will be lost. So I guess i better leave that until i have my JP1.x cable ready.

So, for the time being, I guess I have gotten all the help I needed here and will thank all who have participated. I hope that the next time I need help, I shall not use the Non-JP1 forum.

Cheerio, Rolf

I think you may still have some misunderstanding as the Force remote requires a JP1 cable and not a JP1.2 cable. If the Force remote is your only learning remote, you may have to make a JP1 as well as a JP1.2 cable in case you encounter a new device. You would then use the JP1 Force remote to learn the signals to help build a device upgrade/protocol. You can then take this upgrade and upload it back to the Force and the Dreambox URC-39930 remote.

The Reset command will remove any device/protocol upgrades in the EEPROM section of your Force. It will not erase any of the built-in codes.
It's best to make a JP1 cable and then download the contents of the EEPROM for safe keeping in case you ever want to restore the EEPROM contents.

SET-976 is the learn delete command.

I think I see; a JP-1.x cable is not JP-1 compatible, and a JP 1.x cable handles both JP-1.1, 1.2 - and JP-1.3?

So I guess I will have to make both; I don't yet know where it will end.

I am never satisfied until everything is perfect.

Logitech makes a lot of noise about their 'Harmonies', but I am not convinced they are such a blessing. Had one of the more expensive units here but didn't like it. Too little freedom in programming. Was glad I got my money back.

Yes, your cabling names are correct. You should make a JP1.2 cable though and eliminate the extra components that are for IDC-5 and JP1.1. The JP1 cable is for your Force remote and the JP1.2 cable is for your Dreambox V4 URC-39930 and (if you buy) the URC-7930.

Just to make sure, am I correct in assuming that using a JP cable even the device select keys are accessible for programming, say for a macro to select device (TV), and then also select which input source the TV-set should listen to?

Rolf

Dreamzapper wrote:Just to make sure, am I correct in assuming that using a JP cable even the device select keys are accessible for programming, say for a macro to select device (TV), and then also select which input source the TV-set should listen to?

That depends on the model of remote.

On most models, ordinary programming with JP1 software cannot make a macro work on a device key.

A few models do support macros on device keys by ordinary JP1 programming. I forget which.

Many models can be loaded with "extender" software via JP1. With the extender you can program macros onto device keys and other keys that wouldn't be programmable without the extender.

If I got it right - it can be done, provided proper tools are used. Fine

The URC's I need to program are the Dreambox V4 URC-39930 and the URC-7950.

But can it be done without an extender on any of them, or is an extender available for any of them?

Rolf

Programming a macro(SET-995) on the device mode keys directly from the remote is not allowed on the URC-39930 and URC-7950. However, using IR.exe, you can create macros on the device keys and the remote will execute it. The macro format on the URC-39930 is different and not displayed correctly on IR.exe as it has a delay factor value between each key in the macro sequence. You can use IR to build the macro sequence but you need to be aware of the format.

Thanks a lot, I have saved the info and hope I soon may get me a JP1-x cable.

Rolf

Rolf,

if you are going to go the JP1.x route instead of JP,1 then I want to amend my recomendation for a "simple remote" that we talked about in another thread. Take a look at the comcast 1057. (When inquiring on ebay ask if there is a JP1.2 label on the 6 pin connector, and a sticker in the battery compartment that says URC-1057BG1.) These are readily available on ebay and are going for about $1.50 plus shipping. Its a very unintimidating remote. It has more keys than you want, but its not scary! Its also very small. its only 7.5inches long, 2 inches wide. Its got 8 less buttons than the comcast 1067, and its the least intimidating remote I've seen in the JP1.x line.


http://www.urcsupport.com/index.php?mso_id=65

P.S. Make sure you ASK before you buy. I've been burned a number of times by people throwing up the picture of a similar looking remote.

If you don't plan on making your JP1.2 cable, you can probably buy TTL-232R-3V3-WE and hook it up to a IDC-6 connector to get your JP1.2 cable. The firm is in England so it may be easier than sourcing a JP1.2 cable from the USA.

Getting better all the time! You guys are doing a wonderful job, it is just amazing how sites like this can help out a 'poor' guy like me, with so many not only helpful - but also very knowledgeable and resourceful people. Mankind at its best!

Cheerio, Rolf

binky123 wrote:If you don't plan on making your JP1.2 cable, you can probably buy TTL-232R-3V3-WE and hook it up to a IDC-6 connector to get your JP1.2 cable. The firm is in England so it may be easier than sourcing a JP1.2 cable from the USA.

I have now got the cable, but am a little at loss about how to connect to the 6 pins connector.

These are ok:
GND to pin 3
TXD to pin 4
RXD to pin 6
RTS to pin 5

That leaves unconnected the pins marked
1 - VDD
2 - /RESET
on the Tyler Sept. 15, 2006 schematic.

I think Pin 1 only is for supplying power to the interface and is not needed for this cable. That leaves the /RESET, pin 2, which in the Tyler design is fed from DTR via Q3.


The following lines from the cable are not connected to the 6-pin connector
CTS (can it be used?)
VCC (not needed?)

I hope somebody may clear this up for me.

The wiring to the 6-pin IDC connector should be as follows. Interesting in that the FT232RL has the same pin numbering as the PL2303 used by this other user here. CTS_N and Vcc are not used from the cable. Pin 1 Vdd of the IDC-6 on the remote is not used as well since power is coming from the batteries.

Since the signal names are the same, I guess that I only have to go by them, since the chip used in my cable is FT32EQ, where pin assignments are

30 TXD
32 RTS_N
2 RXD
many GND

but with another numbering on the cable with bare wire ends.

I will follow your wiring, but am just curious about connecting the signal RTS to /RESET (pin2) on JP1, since RTS obviously is connected to pin 5 (/BKCD, JP1.2 or /START, JP1.1) on Tyler's diagram.

EDIT: I looked at the link you gave and it seems the use of RTS to /RESET is covered there, as well as a lot of other issues that I may learn a little from so I guess I have all that I need - at least until I've been able to complete the wiring and begin testing.