problem reading 1067Bg3-0001-R remote from comcast

greenough1 · Post by **greenough1** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 3:06 pm

I picked up a 1067Bg3-0001-R remote from comcast today. I can't all of the label near the jp1.x connector. I can only see "JP". I can't dump it with IR (USB to serial adapter and tommy's serial JP1.x interface) 7.06. I get failed to open JP1.x interface, message.

I've tried 3 different pairs of good batteries and switching the connector (pin 1 orientation). Hooking up my JP1 parallel interface locks up the remote.

I've tried 981 reset before trying to dump. The interface is good as it dumps my JP1.3 atlas just time.

Anyone run into this before?
jeff

Post by **The Robman** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 3:29 pm

This sounds like the same remote that user "i_am_jim" posted about here:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10477

Even though he fried the original remote with a DIY cable, once he cut wire #5 on the cable, he was able to communicate with the replacement remote.

The term "JP1.x interface" is out of date, which cable exactly do you have? The cables that were originally called JP1.x only work with JP1.1 and JP1.2 remotes, they don't work with JP1.3 remotes, in fact, they actually kill JP1.3 remotes.

greenough1 · Post by **greenough1** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 3:59 pm

I have a cable Tommy built for me that works with JP1.2 and JP1.3 remotes. It doesn't have wire 5 connected. I just opened it up and verified. I've not got i_am_jim's problem.

I've tested it successfully on a comcast 1067 Bx3 (JP1.3) and comcast 1057 Bg1 JP1.2 and atlas JP1.3 signature 30333. The 1067 Bx3 and 1057 Bg1 both had the same signature: cs301009, even though they are different interfaces.

So this is why I'm surprised it won't dump this remote. I should work.

I thought it was decided the correct terminology was JP1 eeprom and JP1.x flash since JP1.2 and JP1.3 are both flash based.

jeff

unclemiltie · Post by **unclemiltie** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 5:07 pm

If it's got the CSxxxx signature then it's not the JP1.3 remote.

The JP1.3 Comcast DVR is a 30393039 signature. I wonder if that remote is mislabeled?

greenough1 · Post by **greenough1** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 5:42 pm

ok Thank Unclemiltie.

Any ideas about the odd new 1067Bg3-0001-R I can't download into IR?

I looked at the batter terminal connectors in the remote and both sides looked like they might not make good contact with the batteries. I bent them slightly to make certain contact with the batteries and still IR cannot open the JP1.x interface.

Might it be useful to crack the case and see what's silkscreened on the board?

jeff

Post by **The Robman** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 6:45 pm

I wasn't suggesting that you had the same "problem" as i_am_jim, I was suggesting that you have the same "remote", the point being that he was eventually able to download from his remote (his sig is 30393039).

We don't use the "JP1.x" terminology anymore because it implies that the cable would work with any JP1.x remote and that is no longer the case. A cable can either work with JP1.1 and JP1.2, or it can work with JP1.2 and JP1.3, but we found it impossible (or at least, impractical) to make a cable that would work with both JP1.1 and JP1.3.

So, it sounds like you have a "JP1.2/3 (Flash)" cable. Therefore, I don't know why it wouldn't work with your Comcast remote. If you're willing to open it up, it might help verify exactly which remote you have, as these Comcast remotes are confusing, especially as they're pretty much all called 1067 !!!

greenough1 · Post by **greenough1** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 6:54 pm

Ok, I misread your post. So I guess it's clear now, but I've got a JP1.2/JP1.3 cable from Tommy with the pin 5 fix. That's the cable I'm using.

So I'm puzzled, like you guys, that I should be able to download it. The only way to know for sure what's up is to open it up and see what's what.

jeff

Post by **vickyg2003** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 6:52 am

A while back I sent Tommy a sampling of comcast remotes, and he told me that the Comcast 1067B is much more sensitive to the pin 5 connector problem, than the Atlas was. Remember that the pin 5 problem doesn't always show up. Its an intermittant problem. Its funny, I have a JP1.x cable and I read Jp1.1, JP1.2 and JP1.3 remotes with the same cable and have not had any problem with JP1.3 or JP1.1. I have dumped all versions.

Jeff is calling the 1067A a 1067B, so its very possible that pin 5 is conected.

I've tested it successfully on a comcast 1067 Bx3 (JP1.3) and comcast 1057 Bg1 JP1.2 and atlas JP1.3 signature 30333. The 1067 Bx3 and 1057 Bg1 both had the same signature: cs301009, even though they are different interfaces.

greenough1 · Post by **greenough1** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 10:26 am

Hi Vicky,
I was beginning to think something along the same lines as you regarding pin 5 and the interface in this remote. However the problematic remote in question (sticker says 1067BG3-0001-R) is gives a failed to open interface EVERY time. I get a single light blink, error message, then another light blink.

I don't need to program this remote and was just curious. Now there seems to be a puzzle contained in this remote. The woman at the comcast center says this is now the only remote that they're giving out.

I started trying to crack it last night and stopped. These cases are very tight and I was going to destroy it I'm pretty sure.

Best,
jeff

Post by **The Robman** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 11:26 am

Can you confirm that there's nothing connected to pin5 at the IDC end. Tommy says that disconnecting it at the PCB end isn't good enough because the wire itself acts as an antenna and causes problems.

Better yet, post some pics of the inside of your interface.

mr_d_p_gumby · Post by **mr_d_p_gumby** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 11:54 am

The Robman wrote:Tommy says that disconnecting it at the PCB end isn't good enough because the wire itself acts as an antenna and causes problems.

Even a couple of inches of wire could cause problems under the right circumstances. UEI adds a 10K resistor to ground on this pin inside the remote, which reduces it's sensitivity considerably. I suspect that there could be cases where this 10K resistor is not soldered properly due to a manufacturing defect, and if that was the case, then pin 5 would be extremely sensitive. In an ideal world, a JP1.3 interface would connect pin 5 to ground (pin 3), but that would cause a major conflict with JP1.2 remotes.

When pin 5 is falsely activated, it puts the CPU into a special TEST mode (as defined by Samsung, not UEI) that uses a different communication method. Based on some of the odd cases we have encountered, it appears that the signals on the JP1.3 connector can be misinterpreted while in the TEST mode and cause a random byte of flash memory to be reprogrammed with a random value (not a good thing). Perhaps that has already happened to the remote in question here.

Post by **The Robman** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 12:42 pm

DIY is now selling 2 versions of the same flash cable, a JP1.2/3 version with the wire cut and a JP1.1/2 with the wire intact. Do you think it would be a good idea for him to offer a 3rd version as "JP1.3 only" where pin5 is grounded? If someone only has a JP1.3 remote and has no intention of buying a JP1.2 remote, this might be a better option for them.

greenough1 · Post by **greenough1** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 3:27 pm

Robman, Yes I can confirm there's nothing connected at the IDC end and it's been wire-wrapped.
LINK is a picture. I'm not sure how to get it in-line.

The remote is fine. I can reset it and it seems fully functional, so I don't think anything bad has happened to it's memory.

jeff

Post by **The Robman** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 4:14 pm

That pic demonstrates that nothing is connected at the DSUB9 end, it doesn't show me what's going on at the IDC end. The IDC is the female connector that you push onto the 6-pin on the remote.

mr_d_p_gumby · Post by **mr_d_p_gumby** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 4:15 pm

The Robman wrote:DIY is now selling 2 versions of the same flash cable, a JP1.2/3 version with the wire cut and a JP1.1/2 with the wire intact. Do you think it would be a good idea for him to offer a 3rd version as "JP1.3 only" where pin5 is grounded? If someone only has a JP1.3 remote and has no intention of buying a JP1.2 remote, this might be a better option for them.

I guess that would be a possibility, but I'd get Tommy's input on the subject first before doing that. He's tested far more JP1.3 remotes than I have.