JP1 Remotes

Regarding the URC-8811, there is an image in the first post that shows you where pin 1 is on the remote. As you noted, there is a 1 in the top right corner...

http://i.imgur.com/vmynRvh.jpg

Regarding the DIY Gadget adapter, it's true that he doesn't label pin 1, which is a pity, but the good ...

It maybe your problem can be solved by taking the steps used here:

https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... p?t=102235

You don't need an extra JP1 adapter, you need an extra FTDI cable, that way you can have one cable dedicated to JP1.x remotes, and another dedicated to JP1 remotes. You won't even need to get an extra DuPont header, because you can attach the single pin connectors directly to the adapter, and then ...

Oh!!! OK!!! THANK YOU!!!

I don't have any way to program a PIC12HV609 (assumming I could get the code to put in it). I guess I'll still do what I was planning, but buy an extra conversion gizmo.

Thanks again!

ednedn wrote:
I have a quick question: Is the only difference in the cable and connector for JP-1 and JP-1.2 / JP-1.3 that the Pin 5 !JP1.1-Start is disconnected?

JP1 and JP1.x are completely different.


I have a number URC-8810 & URC-8811 remotes. Those are JP1. Right now I'm mostly using ...

THANK YOU!!!!

Thanks Rob, I got the old cable to work with Windows 10 for both IR.EXE and RMIR.EXE.

The directions you posted helped a lot. But I want to add a little more detail because I suspect other people will run into this problem over time.

Those directions were very good and helpful. BUT ...

Hi! I've been successfully using RMIR v2.07 on Windows 7 for a long time. I have a new machine (Windows 10) and am installing all the applications I need on it.

I saw RMIR v2.09 was available and installed it. I am using a USB JP1 cable. I can't see any of my remotes. The program always says "No ...

Update: I unsoldiered the EEPROM chips. And was very careful to have no excess soldier anywhere. All three of the URC-6011 remotes did 4 short blinks when I gave them the Setup-981 command. And in fact, I've programmed them with RMIR and two of the work.

But the third one is acting like it isn't ...

I received the 24LC16B chips from China. And I soldiered them into 2 of my URC-6011 remotes. I also added the JMP-2 wire.

Sadly, doing a Reset with a Setup-981 command results in 2 short blinks and 1 long blink.

And even more sadly, RMIR doesn't see any remotes. I think I got the surface mount ...

Thank You so much for the help! I ordered 10x of the EEPROM's off of eBay! ($4.50 including the shipping for 10 of them: http://www.ebay.com/itm/401025091933)

I don't mind doing a little work to get them going! Its a fun project. (And hardly any work compared to the effort it took for people to ...

I've pretty much standardized on the URC-8810 remotes. But I decided to get a few URC-6011 and URC-6012 remotes off of eBay. The RemoteChart.pdf says these are JP1 remotes but are missing the connector pins.

I soldered the connecting pins into each remote and for the life of me, I can't get the ...

OK! Its uploaded. Maybe it will save somebody some time and effort.

https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=12681

OK! I understand! I will work from the .rmir file! I did a download and posted that because that captured the learned signal that did work. But I understand that going to cause information to get lost.

But I have a quick question. I looked at two existing Android-TV box upgrades in the file section ...

Update: This problem has been figured out! But I still have a question about how to use the Frequency of the learned signal!
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Hi! I have a strange problem. I can learn the signals off of my Android-TV Box remote on to my URC-8810. That all works. But when I load the ...

I pulled it apart yesterday. I have not 'cleaned' it yet. I put it together without the rubber key pad in place. It behaves the same. I also tried shorting across the Setup Button's traces with a small screw driver with the batteries in place after the double blink. Nothing...