JP1 Remotes

I am having problems with the 6-pin headers that I soldered in my remotes. They keep getting loose when I insert the JP1 female connector. So I am considering taking the headers out and using a pogo adapter instead.

Do pogo adapters work well?

Thanks in advance

François

Rob is the expert, but I would suggest more solder and some hot glue.

while you are back there, if Rob thinks it is a good idea, and if you have one, put some hot glue on the transformer.

The pogo-pin adapters were designed for the Kameleon remotes, that don't have 6-pin connectors and don't have provisions for them being soldered in. They work well enough for the task they were designed for, but they're still not as conventient as having the 6-pin soldered in the remote.

Furthermore, the pogos only work with remotes where the holes for the 6-pin are of the "pass through" variety, in other words, when you look at the holes before you solder in the 6-pin, are there metal traces around the edges? If you just see the plastic of the PCB then the pogo won't work for this remote.

For example, in the US, you could use the pogo for the RCU810 but you can't use it for remotes like the URC_6131, URC_6012, etc.

In your case, if the pins keep coming loose, it sounds like you are getting cold solder joints. I suspect that you tried soldering in the 6-pin without using flux.

Btw, which remote are you talking about?

Thanks for the info, Rob.

I have two URC-6800’s and one URC-8017B.

From what you are saying, the pogo would not work with the 8017B.

Yes, I am having a hard time soldering the pins. I had to start over so many times that I removed the metal trace around hole #2, thus cutting this circuit, on one of the 6800s. That’s on the key side of the board. I am afraid this one is messed up...


François

Soldering the pins is only difficult if you don't use flux. Am I right in assuming that you didn't use flux?

Well, it says rosin solder on the roller.

Is that flux?

I personally would never endorse the use of additional flux in soldering electronic components - there should be enough flux in cored solder to do the job properly - additional flux should only be used in plumbins jobs ot the like. I think the problem is more likely to becaused by either to cool a soldering iron or one that is too hot or applied to the joint for too long. Things may be different in the US, but rosin based solder with a suitable iron should make a perfect joint every time.

poet99 wrote:Well, it says rosin solder on the roller.

Is that flux?

Nope. Before I discovered flux, I tried using just regular rosin solder and it was very difficult to get the solder to run down the pins and bond with the pads. Somewhere along the line I discovered flux, which you can get from Radio Shack, and it makes the job so much easier. The solder runs down the pins instantly and you get perfect "Hershey's Kisses" shaped joints rather than balls of solder that doesn't bond with the pads.

Rob,

Why wouldn't a pogo adapter work on a remote that has holes like the 6131 or 6012? A 6 pin header is a "pass through" design just like a pogo pin adapter, so what is the difference?

AH HA. I think I just figured out where my brain froze! The remotes you mentioned only have solder pads on the bottom of the circuit board. Thanks!

Filebug wrote:AH HA. I think I just figured out where my brain froze! The remotes you mentioned only have solder pads on the bottom of the circuit board. Thanks!

Yup!