JP1 Remotes

This announcement originally introduced USB "thumb" interfaces for JP1 and JP1.x remotes. The announcement was updated with information about improvements. I'm still selling these, and the details are in the announcement at the top of the list entitled "USB JP1 AND USB JP1.2/3 INTERFACES FOR SALE".

Tommy

Holy COW! That's pretty darn small! So you've crammed all the components in the USB connector there?

As usual, I'm mighty impressed.

Although I have fully working Simple Parallel JP1 and Serial (via serial-USB adapter) JP1.2 interfaces, I cannot imagine there NOT being a market for these.

Do you emboss or silkscreen or etch something to differentiate between the two types?

Also, does this JP1.x interface work directly w/ JP1.3 remotes, or does it require the "cut pin 5" workaround?

Those look really sweet. Almost something I'd expect to buy in a store. I assume the jp1 is using a IC and shouldn't have to deal with all the battery tricks etc?

I'd definitely buy one if I didn't already have a serial jp1.2 cable that was doing everything I needed right now.

I'd buy one of each, count me in.

I'm using a Mac these days (with parallels desktop) for both JP1 and JP1x work. And I have a hand-made JP1.x interface that I know won't last forever.

Capn Trips wrote:Do you emboss or silkscreen or etch something to differentiate between the two types?

Not yet. The JP1X is slightly larger (about 1/16" thicker and 1/8" longer), so I haven't had a problem mixing them up. But I'll think about it.

Capn Trips wrote:does this JP1.x interface work directly w/ JP1.3 remotes, or does it require the "cut pin 5" workaround?

Still requires cut/bend pin 5.

Evan_s wrote:I assume the jp1 is using a IC and shouldn't have to deal with all the battery tricks etc?

You're right. As a matter of fact, the ONLY interface that was ever cursed with battery tricks was the parallel port Simple.

unclemiltie wrote:I'm using a Mac these days (with parallels desktop) for both JP1 and JP1x work.

I'll try to look into whether there are drivers for Mac. I don't think Vista is supported, but I'll have to look into that too.

Tommy

Tommy Tyler wrote:

unclemiltie wrote:I'm using a Mac these days (with parallels desktop) for both JP1 and JP1x work.

I'll try to look into whether there are drivers for Mac. I don't think Vista is supported, but I'll have to look into that too.

Tommy

I should have been more clear. I'm using a Mac with Parallels desktop running Windows Vista (or XP, doesn't matter) So no need to find Mac drivers.

On the other hand, if we could find Mac drivers and get RMIR to deal with these interfaces, I could ditch windows completely which would be cool. (except when I need to work on stuff in C, then I'll have to re-engage with the borg)


-bill

Tommy Tyler wrote:

Capn Trips wrote:Do you emboss or silkscreen or etch something to differentiate between the two types?

Not yet. The JP1X is slightly larger (about 1/16" thicker and 1/8" longer), so I haven't had a problem mixing them up. But I'll think about it.

Capn Trips wrote:does this JP1.x interface work directly w/ JP1.3 remotes, or does it require the "cut pin 5" workaround?

Still requires cut/bend pin 5.

Different color cables for distinguishing the types?

This style switch can probably fit in the casing for cut pin 5
http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/FR02.pdf

I would be interested in 1 of each.

While I can boot my laptop into windows, I prefer to work in Linux, so if the chip you are using has Linux drivers, that would be cool. Of course it is quickly approaching Tax time when I have to use Windows a few times, so it isn't a huge issue. I would definitely buy a JP1 interface, and might buy a JP1.X interface in case I run out of 6131s that I modified a few years back.

I'd be highly interested in picking up one of the jp1 USB models

I think I'm one of Tommy's first customers and wanted to post my experience. The JP1 interface arrived promptly and works beautifully, even Vista with the 05/06/2005 3.1.0.0 version delcom drivers. Looks great too, as you can see from the picture. Thanks, Tommy.

You don't need a multi-position rotary switch, just a single pole to break the pin 5 connection.

Being it seems the case is shrink tube with the USB logo melted into it, you could use a different color shrink tube, or melt a JP1 or JP1.x logo into it. Or simply have a decal.

Thomas,

All the information is here.
I ran out of chips for the JP1 version. They are on order, but it will be a week or so before I can ship a unit.

Tommy

PM'd for one of each, regardless of the answers to these questions, which I hope Tommy can answer

1. These cables are for USB2 and not USB1, correct?
2. Will there be a way to distinguish jp1 from jp1.x cable? I gather not but it would be nice
3. Will they work through one of those little port expanders where you can plug in a mouse and something else when computer only has one USB port?
4. Any special power requirements?
5. Any chance the IRSA gadget could be made for USB? Hey, you gotta have something to do, right?

ElizabethD wrote:PM'd for one of each, regardless of the answers to these questions, which I hope Tommy can answer

1. These cables are for USB2 and not USB1, correct?
2. Will there be a way to distinguish jp1 from jp1.x cable? I gather not but it would be nice
3. Will they work through one of those little port expanders where you can plug in a mouse and something else when computer only has one USB port?
4. Any special power requirements?
5. Any chance the IRSA gadget could be made for USB? Hey, you gotta have something to do, right?

1: Doesn't really matter. USB2 ports can deal with USB1, and USB2 devices can plug into USB1 ports. So, as long as you have a USB these things will work.

2: not easily, although one is bigger than the other. The first thing I did when I got mine was to write on the plugs which one was which. Although Tommy's new USB JP1x cable with the flashing lights will be easy to distinguish.

3: as long as they don't draw more than 500mA (which I'm sure they don't) they can plug into a "hub" (the correct word for port expander). Powered hubs are better since they provide 500mA to each port while non-powered hubs can provide a maximum of 500mA to all of the ports since it gets its power from the port that it is plugged into.

4: see (3) above, these things are all self-powered from the USB port. very nice!

I just downloaded and tried the new V4.4 driver for the USB IO chip (JP1) on my Core2Duo Vista machine (Parallels Desktop running on Mac) with my DIY Gadget cable and all is fine. The previous V4.2 didn't work at all and the V3.x had issues with Vista and dual cores.

The driver is here:


http://www.delcom-eng.com/productdetail ... Num=890520