JP1 Remotes

IBNobody · Joined: 06 May 2007 Posts: 124

You may remember that I was going to get two of those remote extenders mentioned in the title.

I got them today.

What these things do is detect the RF interference that your remote puts out when it drives the IR diode. They are shaped like a dummy battery.

I'm currently charging a battery that came with one of them. I tested it out a little, but the battery (right out of the package) was too weak to drive the remote.

While I wait for a full charge, I wanted to report what the mysterious "ABC" switch was. The CSR from Next Generation mentioned it controlled "signal strength".

What it does is set the filtering frequency of the remote. Setting A is for 56kHz remotes. Setting B is for 38kHz remotes. Setting C is "extra sensitive", but no frequency range is given.

From this information, I've surmised that Scientific Atlanta DVRs use an IR carrier frequency of 56kHz, and just about everything else (including my PS3 IR converter) uses 38kHz. This is why NG tells you to buy two receiver units. You need to set one to pick up 56kHz and the other to pick up 36kHz. (The actual device operates at 418MHz.)

IBNobody · Joined: 06 May 2007 Posts: 124

After 18 hours... I still don't have a charged battery.

It seems that the 2/3AAA terminals on the receiver (used to charge the cell) didn't make good contact with the cell. I corrected this and will now wait another day for a full charge.

I should have some functionality info tonight.

johnsfine

IBNobody · Joined: 06 May 2007 Posts: 124

I finally had a chance to test the device out.

Setting A did indeed work on my SA8300HDC, and setting B worked on everything else. Setting C apparently toggles back and forth between A and B, but it does not work for "A" devices.

Is it great? Not out of the box.

I think the design of the UFO-shaped receiver is poor. The two IR LEDs all point forward, even though the device has a 360 degree clear plastic dome. The UFO's lip also blocks IR signals from traveling down at an angle. You need to put the UFO below your devices and pointing forward.

Basically, you can't hit anything with it unless you use the included IR LED cable.

I plan on modifying the UFO tomorrow by removing the two IR LEDs from the PCB and creating a poor-mans IR LED extender.

IBNobody · Joined: 06 May 2007 Posts: 124

John (or anyone),

What is the typical Vf for IR LEDs? The ones included in the receiver are 1V.

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I am currently modifying the UFO-shaped receiver. I have removed the IR LEDs from the PWA and have installed them to the ends of two 6' cables. This gives me 3 IR "eyes" that I can position around my setup.

IBNobody · Joined: 06 May 2007 Posts: 124

More disappointment

The max range from the UFO to my receiver is 15 feet. When I look at the IR LEDs through a digital camera, they look dim (as opposed to my remote's brilliant glare.)

What this means is that I can't put the UFO up in the corner across the room like I could with the RF-enabled OFA remotes.

IBNobody · Joined: 06 May 2007 Posts: 124

I finally got everything set up, and the results are positive.

If I had just taken the thing out of the box and used it, I would have been severely disappointed, especially for the money I spent. The IR coverage angle and maximum IR range made the unit difficult to situate.

So... I voided the warranty and modified my UFO receiver units.

On my 38kHz designated unit, I removed the two IR LEDs from inside the device and spliced them each to a cable. I also took the IR LED "eyes" that came with both my units and spliced them together into one cable. My 38kHz system now has 4 IR LEDs connected to it.

I did something similar to my 56kHz unit. I only removed one of the internal LEDs and spliced it to a cable.

Now all my devices have IR LEDs strategically placed (out of sight), and I am able to control everything via the RF transmitter-battery in my Atlas OCAP remote. I'm happy.

The range of the remote on a somewhat charged battery is decent. I can be at least 30 feet away from the UFOs and behind one wall and still get it to work.

I'm not sure how battery life will be. The unit shipped with 2 rechargeable batteries. Since I have two transmitters (one isn't used), I have 4 batteries. We'll see how long the batteries last.

IBNobody · Joined: 06 May 2007 Posts: 124

Ok... One hiccup.

The IR signal from the 56k unit interferes with the IR signal coming from my remote. I cannot control my Scientific Atlanta cable box if I point the remote at it.

I've had to put tape over the IR LEDs on the remote.