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URC-1067 No response error
Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 7:45 am
by rossb
I have a Comcast URC-1067 that I would like to mod so it can accept some Samy descrete codes. I read all the "hows and whys" in the newbe post and down loaded all the appropriate software. I just purchased a JP1.2 serial cable from diygadget and it was delivered Friday. Hooked it up and ran IR. When I chose download from remote, I get this error:
"No response from interface. Make sure that the interface is connected to the PC and that you've specified the right path."
One of the device buttons flashes twice.
I tried it with both IR 6.20 and 7 beta 3, I have the RDF files in the same directory as IR and the IR folder is on the same drive as my operating system. On the interface menu I have serial chosen and it is pointing to the correct com port. In 7 beta 3 I have JP1.x checked.
I tried this on my home computer and on my work laptop connected to it's docking station (need that serial port).
The RDF I have for the urc-1067 is dated 10/22/06. If I do file>new>select remote and choose the URC-1067 I get a "unknown processor in RDF" error. Are you supposed to be able to just open those RDF files in that mannor?
Anyway, does anyone have any clues? I think I have all the bases covered, but I'm obviously doing something wrong. Any help would be appreciated.
Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 8:24 am
by vickyg2003
In order to communicate with a jp1.x you need to use IR7 or greater.
Did you tell IR that you are using a JP1.x interface?
Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 8:28 am
by The Robman
Also, make sure that you have batteries in the remote.
Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 8:57 am
by rossb
Thanks for the tip on using IR 7 or newer for JP1.x. When I used 7 beta 3, I did have JP1.x checked on the interface menu.
I did have new batteries in the remote.
I just got two of these remotes when I got new comcast HD cable boxes. I haven't even programed them manually. They kinda suck since you can only control 3 devices and they are not very comfortable in your hand. I just want to program some discrete codes in them so I can teach them to my MX-500. If it worked well, then I was considering buying a remote from the market place on this site and playing around some more.
Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 9:51 am
by vickyg2003
Did you read this link from the General Section. Tommy Tyler wrote up a list for trouble shoothing the Jp1.x.
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7987
Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 10:15 am
by speaker.guy
Did you try the cable both ways?
Turn IR off after a comm failure and restart it befort trying again?
Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 10:40 am
by rossb
I downloaded Tommy's trouble shooting guide and reviewed it, but the company firewall will not let me down load the test programs. I'll try them tonight at home. I did try the cable both ways, but I can't remember if I shut down IR in between. I'll also check that tonight.
Based on his guide I may have hooked it up backwards and temporarily froze up or disabled my remote. Then it may not have worked even if I hooked it up correctly.
My remote has the pins labeled so it is easy to tell their orientation, but I bought the interface so how do I know the proper orientation of it's holes?
Thanks for the info. I'll post back tomorrow with the results.
Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 11:39 am
by The Robman
rossb wrote:My remote has the pins labeled so it is easy to tell their orientation, but I bought the interface so how do I know the proper orientation of it's holes?
Does the 6-hole IDC connector have a groove on one side? If so, pin1 is on that side. When connecting the cable to the remote, the groove should be on the same side as the pin labelled as pin1 on the remote.
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 6:32 am
by rossb
Alright, I downloaded the interface test file last night and ran it this morning. I fail the test with the message "No JP1.x compatible remote found".
I actually get three flashes during the test in succession, one long and two short. I'm not sure what 3 flashes means? It should only be 2.
Anyway, since I got flashes, that means my interface is OK, right?
I didn't do tests D or E since I don't have access to a multimeter and based on the flashes, I don't think I need to.
Any suggestions on where to go from here?
Thanks.
Oh, thanks for the info on which hole on the conector was #1, I've got that part figured out now.
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 12:12 pm
by rossb
I figured even though the interface was a purchased unit from a place this sites recommends, I might as well inspect the insides. Damn...one of the wires was broken off where it is soldered to the PCB. I held it together with my fingers and wala...it feaken works!!!! I'll solder it tonight and be all set.
Thanks for the help.
Signed
A happy customer