Hi
I was so pleased with my LW 5045 HDD recorder that I bought the new HDA740GX machine.
It arrived yesterday, and I pointed the new remote at the old machine and --- you guessed, the remotes have the same codes or very nearly.
Has anyone any ideas how to change either machine to not respond to both remotes?
I was toying with the idea of changing the older (out of warranty) machine from IR to high UHF (about 900MHz), but that involves major surgery both to remote and recorder.
Before I get the soldering iron out, does anyone have a better suggestion?
Lite-on HDD recorders
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classicsat
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The Robman
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Do these machines have a remote controlled POWER button? If so, you could always leave one ON and the other OFF, then use the POWER button to toggle between them.
Alternatively, you could hook them up to X10 modules and use X10 to turn them on and off.
Both of these solutions assume that you don't need both units on at the same time.
Alternatively, you could hook them up to X10 modules and use X10 to turn them on and off.
Both of these solutions assume that you don't need both units on at the same time.
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
Thanks Guys,
It seems that they do not offer any form of receiver coding at Lite-on. They suggest seperating the units.
Looks like I have to get the soldering iron out and do some serious elecronics.
I'll post any success here. Maybe I can change the sensor from 36 to 56K and mod the oscillator in the remote, if I can ever get into it without breaking it.
Any ideas how to open the remote case?
It seems that they do not offer any form of receiver coding at Lite-on. They suggest seperating the units.
Looks like I have to get the soldering iron out and do some serious elecronics.
I'll post any success here. Maybe I can change the sensor from 36 to 56K and mod the oscillator in the remote, if I can ever get into it without breaking it.
Any ideas how to open the remote case?
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The Robman
- Site Owner
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- Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2003 9:37 am
- Location: Chicago, IL
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http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/disassemble/
But, if you've managed to change the receiver to look for a different frequency, rather than mod the OEM remote, you could re-program your JP1 remote to send the right signal using software.
But, if you've managed to change the receiver to look for a different frequency, rather than mod the OEM remote, you could re-program your JP1 remote to send the right signal using software.
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
Looks like the remote has to stay on same frequency.
New idea! RF solutions in UK (http://www.rfsolutions.co.uk/acatalog/index.html) offer a 2 pin 433MHz AM tx device which can be sink or source driven, needs 2-14V 1 x220p capacitor 1x 1-5p trimmer a resistor and a loop antenna. Standby current is about 2uA. Costs about $15 US. Reciver module is about $10 US and needs 3 or 5V. Supply and RF in, and data out at RX end.
The same company now owns Quasar RF modules.
Tx device is only 11x7x4 mm so should fit in remote, and RX is small enough to fit behind front panel, although there is enough space in the box for a party!
The plan is to remove the IR LED and drive the TX module in its place. At the receiver (DVD) end, remove the IR sensor, and connect the RX output to where it was, inverted if needed.
I'll let you know!
New idea! RF solutions in UK (http://www.rfsolutions.co.uk/acatalog/index.html) offer a 2 pin 433MHz AM tx device which can be sink or source driven, needs 2-14V 1 x220p capacitor 1x 1-5p trimmer a resistor and a loop antenna. Standby current is about 2uA. Costs about $15 US. Reciver module is about $10 US and needs 3 or 5V. Supply and RF in, and data out at RX end.
The same company now owns Quasar RF modules.
Tx device is only 11x7x4 mm so should fit in remote, and RX is small enough to fit behind front panel, although there is enough space in the box for a party!
The plan is to remove the IR LED and drive the TX module in its place. At the receiver (DVD) end, remove the IR sensor, and connect the RX output to where it was, inverted if needed.
I'll let you know!
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classicsat
- Posts: 279
- Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 2:24 pm
Thanks for that Classicsat.
Getting into the box was traumatic. There are three very tight clips down each side, plus a pair top and bottom. Eventually I abandoned subtlety and crow-barred my way in through the LED hole. It worked but as the LED slipped in, the PCB cracked so my first job was to repair that!
The 40KHz definitely stops the RF module from starting up. The RF module only needs about 5mA as opposed to the LED 20mA or so. This meant that I was able to increase the transistor base resistor from 270 to 1K. This allowed an almost reasonable 0.1uF to be fitted from base to 0v. Any higher R value and the transistor does not switch reliably. The RC network reduced the 40KHz quite substantially.
Fitting a choke (220uH) and another 0.1uF in the LED -ve line to the RF unit helped.
These are all standard components - not SMD so they hang around in free space at the minute. If it all works, I may get the correct smd units but alternatively a dab of hot melt glue will hold most things quite well.
I simply removed the LED and fitted a small PCB below the keyboard area with two wires, one to LED +VE one to the choke and capacitor and eventually to LED -VE.
Generally the application follows the application note/datasheet.
The antenna is 2.0mm track on the PCB returned to the +LED line through a 1.5 to 5 pF trimmer. This seems to work at over 30 feet. (I have access to a spectrum analyse so I was able to tweak the C for best RF out)
The receiver is very simple but is active High. All the photosensors I have data on are active low, so I added an NPN transistor (BC548) with a 10K pullup to 5V and a 1K base resistor. That should make my RF receiver unit look like a photosensor to the subsequent circuit. On the bench it looks fine with clean signals. All I have to do now is cobble it in to the DVD unit.
The antenna is just a straight length of enammeled 1.0mm copper wire and in free air it looks fine.
I am aiming on fitting this receiver to the left-hand side of the unit as there is lots of space there. The antenna can trail along the bottom of the unit with the supply and data lines to the original photo sensor pads.
If anyone can tell me how to post pictures here, I'll put some shots up.
Getting into the box was traumatic. There are three very tight clips down each side, plus a pair top and bottom. Eventually I abandoned subtlety and crow-barred my way in through the LED hole. It worked but as the LED slipped in, the PCB cracked so my first job was to repair that!
The 40KHz definitely stops the RF module from starting up. The RF module only needs about 5mA as opposed to the LED 20mA or so. This meant that I was able to increase the transistor base resistor from 270 to 1K. This allowed an almost reasonable 0.1uF to be fitted from base to 0v. Any higher R value and the transistor does not switch reliably. The RC network reduced the 40KHz quite substantially.
Fitting a choke (220uH) and another 0.1uF in the LED -ve line to the RF unit helped.
These are all standard components - not SMD so they hang around in free space at the minute. If it all works, I may get the correct smd units but alternatively a dab of hot melt glue will hold most things quite well.
I simply removed the LED and fitted a small PCB below the keyboard area with two wires, one to LED +VE one to the choke and capacitor and eventually to LED -VE.
Generally the application follows the application note/datasheet.
The antenna is 2.0mm track on the PCB returned to the +LED line through a 1.5 to 5 pF trimmer. This seems to work at over 30 feet. (I have access to a spectrum analyse so I was able to tweak the C for best RF out)
The receiver is very simple but is active High. All the photosensors I have data on are active low, so I added an NPN transistor (BC548) with a 10K pullup to 5V and a 1K base resistor. That should make my RF receiver unit look like a photosensor to the subsequent circuit. On the bench it looks fine with clean signals. All I have to do now is cobble it in to the DVD unit.
The antenna is just a straight length of enammeled 1.0mm copper wire and in free air it looks fine.
I am aiming on fitting this receiver to the left-hand side of the unit as there is lots of space there. The antenna can trail along the bottom of the unit with the supply and data lines to the original photo sensor pads.
If anyone can tell me how to post pictures here, I'll put some shots up.
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The Robman
- Site Owner
- Posts: 22064
- Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2003 9:37 am
- Location: Chicago, IL
- Contact:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6557dangerous wrote:If anyone can tell me how to post pictures here, I'll put some shots up.
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
Well, It sort of works.
The SMPS in the DVD causes so much interference that the data stream looks like constant clock.
Feeding from a clean 5V supply (external) helps, but is not practical. With this external supply and a choke on the input, I have had the unit workingh at about 20 feet away. In free air away from the DVD unit reception is good at over 30 feet in another room, but the switcher noise still corrupts it.
(If your Liteon ever dies, there is a surface mout 0605 series fuse next to the small DC connector on the main board. It neesd to be 800mA to 1A.)
Maybe the FM receiver type is less prone to noise, but then the Tx is larger and would not fit in the RC unit.
Sorry. I have given up on this one. The unit will be restored to its old self then sold.
I've just ordered a Panasonic HDD/DVD with digital and analog tuners. Hopefully that will be future proof for a while, and as the RC is programmable, it should not upset the Lite-on. It also means that I can junk one Freeview box.
Thanks for everyone's help. If I do persue this UHF idea, I will still post the results. I may try the Linx units, they are smaller and cheaper, but are SMD and that means more work to make PCBs. They do have SAW filter front ends though. The units have been using are super-regenerative, which is probably why they are so noise-prone.
The SMPS in the DVD causes so much interference that the data stream looks like constant clock.
Feeding from a clean 5V supply (external) helps, but is not practical. With this external supply and a choke on the input, I have had the unit workingh at about 20 feet away. In free air away from the DVD unit reception is good at over 30 feet in another room, but the switcher noise still corrupts it.
(If your Liteon ever dies, there is a surface mout 0605 series fuse next to the small DC connector on the main board. It neesd to be 800mA to 1A.)
Maybe the FM receiver type is less prone to noise, but then the Tx is larger and would not fit in the RC unit.
Sorry. I have given up on this one. The unit will be restored to its old self then sold.
I've just ordered a Panasonic HDD/DVD with digital and analog tuners. Hopefully that will be future proof for a while, and as the RC is programmable, it should not upset the Lite-on. It also means that I can junk one Freeview box.
Thanks for everyone's help. If I do persue this UHF idea, I will still post the results. I may try the Linx units, they are smaller and cheaper, but are SMD and that means more work to make PCBs. They do have SAW filter front ends though. The units have been using are super-regenerative, which is probably why they are so noise-prone.