JP1 Remotes

This is "The Capn's standard answer number 1"

I have used the simple parallel interface for years, but I CAN assert that for me, different remotes with different computers (desktop vs. laptop) require various battery configurations ranging from fully charged to weak-ish, to virtually dead, to open-circuited. I suggest you try NEW batteries, but several different combinations:

• Old, weak batteries;
• If you have four batteries, try reversing one (this simulates very weak batteries);
• Try removing a battery (open-circuiting it).

Just to add to this, it's a common misconception that new batteries are beneficial when communicating with your remote using a parallel interface cable, this is not always true. If the voltage inside the remote is higher than the voltage from your PC's parallel port, the interface may not work.

So, if your interface has stopped working, here's the list of things you should try.

• If you have batteries in the remote, try taking them out.
• If you don't have batteries in the remote, try putting in.
• For 4-battery remotes, try reversing one of the batteries (this is a trick to lower the voltage). You could also try replacing one of the batteries with a large paper clip, etc.
• If you're using new batteries, try using some old batteries.
• If you're using old batteries, try using some new batteries.

The Robman wrote:Just to add to this, it's a common misconception that new batteries are beneficial when communicating with your remote using a parallel interface cable, this is not always true.

It is sometimes true. So Rob's list above might also include:

If you're using old batteries, try using some new batteries.

I think Rob's point is that battery considerations for communicating via JP1 are distinct from battery considerations in other areas of possible difficulty.

In learning or using IR signals, better batteries may or may not help, but it is very unlikely that they will hurt. Even if they don't help, you're better off leaving them in while looking to solve some other problem. But in communicating via JP1 cable, better batteries may make things better or they may make things worse. If better batteries don't help, leaving them in may complicate the search for what else might help.

One more thing I found the hard way. If you make your own cable, make sure you complete the ground connection to all pins 18 through 25. Eventhough only one ground is actually needed, some computers like laptops or Parallel switch boxes may give you trouble if you don't.

After checking everthing for hours I finally tried the "reverse one battery" and that did it. Thanks!

If the parallel port is disabled in the BIOS, IR.exe (6.20) will always generate the "No response from remote" message. If you're consistently seeing this message, it couldn't hurt to check the BIOS to make sure that the parallel port is actually enabled.

Perhaps checking for an enabled parallel port is obvious, but it didn't occur to me quite as early as I would have liked...

When having the cable hooked up...is it normal for the display on the remote to be scrambled ??

Also...Im still getting the connection failure...I will try the above suggestions.

This may help some.

Go into your bios settings,

Set your parallel port mode to "normal".

In my case, it was "ECP" and the JP1 didn't work.

When you use a Serial or USB device...you will find that you have alot less head acks !!!

Just a thought !!

I have been following the instructions to add a DVD program macro to my Remote. The remote has a 6-pin connector labelled "JP1.1", and I have gotten a cable to connect it to the parallel port on my PC. The only parallel port that I see on my PC is LPT1, the printer port. I disconnected the printer cable, and inserted the JP1 cable.

Then I ran ir.exe, and I set the Interface to "JP1 parallel". Then, I clicked on "download from Remote", and I get an error message that says "No response from interface. Make sure that interface is connected to the PC, and that you have specified the correct port".

I tried different battery things as suggested in the notes above, but I keep getting that message. Is there something that I didn't do in terms of identifying the port? I do see a drop-down menu when I double click on "JP1 Parallel" in the Interface menu, but it is asking me for a hex code that I don't know where to find.

Thanks for your help in advance.

Sam K.

The only JP1 cables that are parallel are "JP1 (EEPROM)" cables. If your remote is labeled "JP1.1" it needs a "JP1 (Flash)" cable. There are differences between JP1.1, JP1.2 and JP1.3 so you should probably mention the make and model of your remote so we can try and confirm which type it really is (just in case the labeling isn't correct).

The remote is a Cox Cable Company Hi-Def DVR remote, which is intended for use with my SA 8240 cable box. I didn't see any other ID on the remote, but if this isn't enough, I can look some more.

I bought my JP-1 cable with parallel port connector from one of your referenced suppliers, DIYgadget.com.

This thread describes how to choose the correct cable. The parallel cable that you purchased will ONLY work with an older JP1 (EEPROM) remote. It will not work with your remote if it's a JP1.1 (or JP1.2 or 1.3) - all of which have FLASH processors. The JP1.1 was rather short-lived and there is not great support for it.

Which Cox remote from this page do you have? ..or is it a different one?

Try looking inside the battery compartment. There is usually some sort of markings in there.

If it's an Atlas remote, perhaps this guide can help you determine which one you have.

For cables, I would recommend getting one of Tommy Tyler's fine USB cables, but if your remote is indeed a JP1.1, Interface Place is the only vendor that I see still selling the JP1.X cable (that will work with JP 1.1 remotes), but it is a SERIAL cable, so you may need to add a USB-Serial adapter.

For cables, I would recommend getting one of Tommy Tyler's fine USB cables, but if your remote is indeed a JP1.1, Interface Place is the only vendor that I see still selling the JP1.X cable (that will work with JP 1.1 remotes), but it is a SERIAL cable, so you may need to add a USB-Serial adapter.

I'd buy a new Jp1.2 or JP1.3 remote, before I bought a JP1.1 cable! The cable is going to cost more than the remotes that we program, so you really want to spend this money wisely. Cable remotes to replace the Cox remote can be picked up fairly cheaply, so I wouldn't aim for that tiny window of JP1.1.

(Now all that being said, I bought a serial cable from rob that I use with a USB adapter, and I've never had trouble with JP1.1, JP1.2 or JP1.3 remotes. I have no idea which design it is, and it seems to be a fluke that it can read all the flash remotes. I wish I'd been paying closer attention to what I was buying back then.)

Actually, DIY also sells a JP1.1 cable, and who knows, he might be willing to accept the parallel cable back in exchange for a JP1.1 cable. His JP1.1/2 cables are good for both JP1.1 and JP1.2 cables, and in the unlikely event that it turns out that you really have a JP1.3 remote, there's a very easy mod that you can do to the cable by cutting one wire that will make it a JP1.2/3 cable.