Hi there, mabye this is a Canadian model thing but I have been unsuccessful at passing the interface test with 2 URC6017s. I tried batteries in/out as suggested by I. I built a second simple interface that has the 1K instead of the 10K resistors but this has not helped either. Both interfaces work just fine with my RCU810.
The only real affect I have on the 6017 is that once I run the interface test, I have to unplug the interface to get the remote to function (LED blinks) - for visual confirmation, I have held down the volume key while performing the test and the LED on the remote goes out as soon as I select O.K. to begin the test.
Any suggestions? I was hoping to be bilingual with RCA and OFA by Monday morning.
The URC-6017 is the Canadian version of the American URC-6012. Neither remote ships in a JP1 ready condition, you have to solder in three components to make it work (as described in the mod doc in the Hardware folder):
1) An EEPROM
2) A 6-pin header
3) A wire across JMP2
You described your interface in great detail but neglected to mention what modifications you made to your URC-6017
Rob www.hifi-remote.com Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
A minor boo boo.. the EEPROM is the problem. I Overlooked the EEPROM requirement on the list of JP1 capables. I was curious about that jumper when I saw it. I shorted it but that obviously couldn't have helped without the EEPROM.
I have read that radio shack does not carry the eeprom that JP1 needs. I have also read several notes recently about folks that bought the wrong eeprom (they go by bits, not bytes, so the number you actually are looking for on the eeprom turns out not to be intuitively 2k).
so in anticipation of your next question, where can i get this eeprom, you might want to read this. also, i think these people can sell it to you, but make you sure you order the right part.
On most EEPROMs the #1 pin is marked with a dot or a bevel. If you get an EEPROM where it's not obvious, just look for some sort of indication of where pin1 is, because it will be marked somehow.
Then on the remote, you'll see that four of the pads are joined together, this is the side where pins 1 trhu 4 should go.
I would advise reading my "how to" doc on this in the Hardware folder.
Rob www.hifi-remote.com Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
I was curious about that jumper when I saw it. I shorted it but that obviously couldn't have helped without the EEPROM.