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OFA Cinema 7 dead-- can you reset?
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starmanj



Joined: 26 Oct 2003
Posts: 34

PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 7:37 pm    Post subject: OFA Cinema 7 dead-- can you reset? Reply with quote

Hi folks.
Just soldered in 6 pins to my trusty Cinema 7. I think a perfect job, no shorts, all traces good. But it's dead-- no LED on buttonpush, won't power on/off my equipment. BUT the JP1 works! I downloaded my button assignments perfectly.

Any ideas? CPU faulty? EEPROM corrupt? Any tricks to revive it? Battery terminals are getting 5.73 volts, new batteries installed.

Help!
Starmanj
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you confirm if the remote is dead or if the red LED is dead? You can test the remote by trying to use it.
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starmanj



Joined: 26 Oct 2003
Posts: 34

PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I mentioned it won't operate my equipment. LED still works if I apply 6 volts directly to its pads. Squinting at the emitters, they look like the wire is still intact on it. In the dark I don't see any faint glow when I press the keypad.

I don't know how I can download using ir.exe if the CPU or eeprom are dead!
Starmanj
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usblipitor



Joined: 10 Oct 2003
Posts: 516
Location: Greenbelt, MD

PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disclaimer #1: In your base note's title, you DID ask how to do a reset Smile
Disclaimer #2: I am a newbie like you, so before you do anything I have suggested below, remember where you got the information from, and use at your own risk. This advice is not suitable for anyone. In fact, I would just stop reading now. Smile

OK, you like to read, but how about if you wait and see what The Robman or other experts think before you do either of the following. On the other hand, if you have exhausted all other options you might want to try these as last ditch efforts:

Lose a little: OPS RESET (aka 980 reset)
1) Hold the SETUP key until the LED blinks twice
2. Enter 980

Lose a lot: FULL RESET (aka 981 reset)
1) Hold the SETUP key until the LED blinks twice
2. Enter 981

My limitted understanding is that in the FULL reset you lose everything you lose in the OPS reset plus any additional upgrade codes that the factory loaded before they shipped the units out are cleared so you will wind up with a smaller more inferior subset of upgrade codes to choose from after the FULL reset. This might not matter as much to a JP1er as it would to a layperson.

Disclaimer #3: I take criticism well so if any experts wish to tell me I am wrong and to shut-the-hell-up and stop offering advice if I don't know what the hell I am talking about I am good with that and I'll learn something too Razz
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
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Location: Chicago, IL

PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve, Starman's remote is dead, so he can't do either of the resets you mentioned (though you are right, he did ask if it could be reset).

Also, in the JP1 world, those resets aren't nearly as frightening as they are in the outside world because you can always restore from a backup. Whereas, if you program up a remote for someone with lots of upgrades, you should emphasize to them to NEVER use the 981 reset, unless they feel like sending the remote back to you to get fixed! Smile

Anyway, back to Starman's problem. I don't know what to suggest. If the LED is working, it would appear the CPU is not. You don't need a working CPU for the EEPROM to work and be read/writable from IR.

Seeing as how all you did was solder in a 6-pin, I can't see how this would kill the CPU, so if we assume for a moment that it's not dead, then the next best reason for the remote being dead is that power is not reaching the CPU. Maybe you should try checking for voltage in all the spots that you think there should be voltage. There is a schematic for the old C7 (URC-7200) in the file section, which might help.
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starmanj



Joined: 26 Oct 2003
Posts: 34

PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good ideas Robman. I was afraid you'd say the CPU is not needed for JP1 reading. Would a dead IR emitter kill red LED also? This has me stumped-- as it worked just before I soldered pins. No shorts anywhere. The resistors are easy to check, but there are a few transistors and diodes that my multimeter can't check (at least I don't know how to).

Thanks for reset info usblipitor, but I guess a reset won't help my comatose cinema 7 after all.
Starmanj
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johnsfine
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Joined: 10 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of the JP1 pins is the CPU reset and it's very sensitive. A path to ground, even a high resistence path, would hold the CPU in a reset state.

Somewhere in the JP1 hardware documentation you should be able to figure out which JP1 pin is RESET, and then inspect or measure to see what it's connected to that it shouldn't be.
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pin 5 is the reset pin and pin 3 is the ground pin, which is right next to it, so a short between these two pins would cause the "dead" state that John was referring to.
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starmanj



Joined: 26 Oct 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Robman. I did find a cinema 7 schematic here and have been checking for shorts. None of the JP1 pins are shorted together, but pin 5 does have 5 volts on it. I'm rusty so I don't know if that means it is active or not (let's see, a bar above reset means "high" or "low"..)

I'm assuming 5 volts to reset means it's active so I'm trying to figure out how it got that way.
Starmanj
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starmanj



Joined: 26 Oct 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drastic measure-- I could cut the trace for RESET to U1?
Starmanj
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johnsfine
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RESET low freezes the CPU. High allows it to run, so it should be normally high.
If you measured it high, then I guess I'm wrong in my guess at the problem. But why "5" volts? I'd expect 4 batteries to bring it to more than 5 volts.
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starmanj



Joined: 26 Oct 2003
Posts: 34

PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pin 5 is 3volts to Pin 1, and 2 volts to Pin 3. (Pins 1 and 3 are 5.25 volts between them). I guess that means Pin 5 is "low" or inactive. Looking at the schematic, I'm trying to figure out why the red LED might not come one-- if an IR emitter dies, will the CPU keep the LED off? Is there a voltmeter test to see if the IR emitter is still functioning?

Starmanj
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starmanj



Joined: 26 Oct 2003
Posts: 34

PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just saw your post johsfine-- I was wrong about reset high. Also I get 5.75 volts at terminals, but I guess the diode drops the voltage .5 volts between terminal and Pin 1.
Starmanj
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, even if the IR-LED is dead, the red visable light LED should still work.

If you cut the RESET line, IR.exe would not be able to pull the remote into reset mode and would therefore not be able to read and write data to the EEPROM (as the CPU would still be in control), assuming you ever get the thing working, that is!
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Rob
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johnsfine
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I reread this thread looking for a certain detail. What does the LED do when RESET is released? Depending on the printer port voltage, that either happens at the end of each upload or download, or it happens when you disconnect the JP1 cable.

In the past at least a couple people have shorted keyboard traces on the remote fairly far from the JP1 soldering, I guess by splashing a tiny drop of solder. That can make the CPU totally ignore the keyboard (because it never sees exactly one key pressed). But if I remember correctly, the CPU still makes that LED blink on release of reset.
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