JP1 Remotes

I've been using X-10 for more than 5 years with almost no problem, I was using about five IR543 with all my lights and appliances, but all of the sudden one stop working for not particular reason on of the units stop working, and a few days latter another two stop working with no explanation. I try to use them with the remote control and also manually, but no response. I still have two that are working, does anybody knows what can I do or should I just buy new ones.

Thank you

Felipe

I've had an X10 wall switch stop working, but I've never heard of IR543 boxes breaking down. It's especially wierd that you would have 3 of them break down at approximately the same time.

When you try using the remote, does the red LED on the broken IR543s still light up? If it does, it's possible that the problem lies in your power line rather than the IR543. In this case, I would try plugging them in in different locations to see if that changes anything.

If the IR543s really are broken, I would suggest opening them up and checking for burned out components, such as leaking capacitors, etc. If you find some, try replacing them. If you can't tell what they are because they're too badly damaged, take a peek inside one of your good IR543 boxes.

If they are truely dead and beyond repair, you can get replacements from
http://www.homeautomationnet.com for just $20 each.

Thanks Rob,

I already try what you sugested, no LED is working, etc...

"When you try using the remote, does the red LED on the broken IR543s still light up? If it does, it's possible that the problem lies in your power line rather than the IR543. In this case, I would try plugging them in in different locations to see if that changes anything. "

I'll be cheking inside for burned out components.

Rob, I open two of IR543s as you suggest to check for burned out components, or any leaking capacitors, but everything seems normal; it's there anything else I can check?

Felipe

I'm guessing that you put in some new piece of electronic gear. Some UPS's and monitors act like a black hole for the powerline x10 signal and everything stops working or gets flakey. Try plugging in an IR543 next to something you are controlling and see if that works.

I had one just stop working for me too. I don't believe I changed anything and nothing I tried would get it working again. I bought a new one and pluged it in right where the defective one was. The replacement is still working fine - knock on wood.

This is TOO weird! All of a sudden IR543 boxes that have been working fine for years start breaking down, is this the first sign of the apocalypse???

Not sure about the IR543, but many X10 devices are fused with a very thin wire on the circuit board. It's possible you've had some nasty powerline surges or spikes, and these "fuses" have blown. Usually, the wire is vaporized, so you'd probably have to compare a good one to a bad one to detect this.

All of a sudden IR543 boxes that have been working fine for years start breaking down...

You really can't count mine as "all of a sudden". Mine broke down and was replaced about a year ago. I was just chiming in that they do go bad.

Thanks, mr_d_p_gumby for the tip. Since I have a good one and a bad one (if I can still find it) I will check.

If you do fix it, or at least find out what went wrong, please post info and maybe pictures too, this is the sort of info that the internet is great for.

! F!X 2 !R543 (I fix my 2 units that were not working and a mini controller). What I did was to follow the instructions in the site http://www.geocities.com/ido_bartana/ go almost all the way to the bottom of the page where you’ll see “Fixing the Mini Controller”; this works for the IR543 as well, the only difference is the polarity in one of the diodes, you’ll notice it when you open the IR543. The only tricky part was finding the two diodes; they’re not available at the Radio Shack in San Diego, CA., but I was able to get them from an electronic store.

Source: article in HTI by Doug Smith

Most failures are due to two burnt diodes. The procedure below replaces them.

Here are the steps that you need to take, but is better if you check the original site.

1. Turn the controller so the back side is up then remove the four screws. Remove the back cover being careful not to spill the parts inside.

2. In all of my controllers, a diode and zener diode were both blown. They were easy to find because there was a slight dark brown burn area around them. The parts needed are an 18V zener diode and a 1N4002 diode.

3. Remove the circuit board from the case. Be careful not to spill the buttons and switches resting in the front of the case. It's not a big deal to put them back if they fall out, but it's easier to not have it happen.

4. Before unsoldering the parts make a note of the direction they are installed. There is a stripe near one end of each diode to show the orientation. Install the new parts, reassemble everything in the reverse order, and test it out.



Everything is working fine now…

Felipe

Resurrecting this thread to see if anyone else has had a IR543 die on them and been able to repair it with the steps above. I opened mine and saw no signs of diodes burning or fried wires, etc. I think it died when it was accidentally plugged in a x-10 controlled outlet.