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Help: Have Atlas 1056B03 Remote...How Do I Know What JPv?
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class5vapor



Joined: 20 May 2016
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2016 8:36 pm    Post subject: Help: Have Atlas 1056B03 Remote...How Do I Know What JPv? Reply with quote

I bought a jp cable from diygadget but the cable doesnt seem to work in rm-ir, i probably bought the wrong one...

This sticker is inside my remote:
URC-10566BC3-XX-036-0565-015-R AUG 14
1056608143407

http://s32.postimg.org/lxvk3z0n9/image.jpg

http://www.diygadget.com/jp1-1-1-1-2-1-3-cables/jp1-2-1-3-flash-usb-cable-for-universal-remotes-ftdi-chip.html

Will that work with my remote? Like how do i know what jp it is...my remote i mean? Sorry for the noob questions...but i am...a noob, but i'll learn the craft with a lil luck, hehe.

On the inside of the remote, battery cover off 'n pins exposed, i can see the text "JP2" stamped on the crcuit board, is that of any importance?

Also, there's a white dot painted on the 6-pin connector of the cable i bought...is that pin-1 which should be top-right?


Thanks in advance for any help...[/img]
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3FG
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Joined: 19 May 2009
Posts: 3240

PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2016 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the 1056B03 is a JP2 remote. If the DIYgadget cable uses a FTDI chip, it should work, but I suppose that they might have shipped you their other version. It uses a Prolific chip and won't work with a JP2 remote. Please check in Device Manager to see which chip it is. There is always the possiblity that the interface or remote is defective. But tell us more about "doesn't work". Any error messages?

I don't know about the white dot, but it seems reasonable to assume that it denotes pin 1. When the 1056B03 is held with the 6 pin connector above the batteries, the top row of pins is 5-3-1 and the bottom row is 6-4-2.
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class5vapor



Joined: 20 May 2016
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2016 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, thanks for the info 3FG, the dot thing is just common on man electronic IC's so i figured that but i didn't know the pin config so ty for that...

I plug it in my laptop and the devices look like this:
http://s32.postimg.org/x2tlhubyd/image.jpg

So, i think its the right one as discovered by the 'puter...

Oh, yeah and what i mean by doesn't work: so i unzipped rm ir, setup.vbs's it, click on the rm ir jar, with remote plugged in click the download from remote button, it says no remotes are connected...i figured it would get the existing config and display it. I want to save what's on there then start "fiddling"
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class5vapor



Joined: 20 May 2016
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2016 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a link on the diygadget site to some drivers for it so im gonna install those later today...i'll report back...

K this is the name of the driver install exe: "PL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1.8.19" ... that's not looking too good as you are saying that Prolific is bad, won't work...hmm...

Of note too, when i plug the remote in, the CBL light does flash once...dunno what that means...my lord, didn't think this would be so hard...
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2016 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you decide that you do need a new cable, I recommend this one, which is $9 on ebay

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16360
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mathdon
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Joined: 22 Jul 2008
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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2016 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not a hardware expert but your pics show that you do have an FTDI interface that should work, and I think they mean that Windows has already installed the correct driver. In the installation folder for RMIR you should find a text file called rmaster.err. If you post that for us to look at, it should give us a better idea of what is failing.
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class5vapor



Joined: 20 May 2016
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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2016 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As requested, thanks for the help guys 'n gals =]

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=14078

Hope that helps...please and thank you =]
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3FG
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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2016 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure that "device working properly" means much other than Windows was able to install a driver. However, if DIYgadget has used a counterfeit FTDI chip, then the current of 2.12.16 Windows drivers won't work. Until recently the 2.10.00 drivers (which do work with counterfeit chips) were available on the FTDI website, but I don't find them now. So I've uploaded the distribution here. You should be able to find the driver version in Device Manager; if it is 2.12.xx, and if the chip is actually counterfeit, the driver needs to be uninstalled and a 2.10 driver installed instead.

Rob,
I've used the file link that you had used previously to provide a link to the FTDI site, and replaced the FTDI site link with the actual zip file.
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class5vapor



Joined: 20 May 2016
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys,

Thanks for the help, i uninstalled the existing drivers which were indeed the v2.12.xx & installed the lowerv2.10.xx - no change, still no workey.

Ne thing i noticed is that the CBL LED flashes twice when i try the download from remote button and the "no remotes found" box pops up

Im bummed out cuz i was eager to start this journey and seems like the 1st place i bought a cable from gypped me...

I will buy one from where you suggest, Rob, TY for the referral

In the meantime, im thinking of carefully slicing the shrink tubing to see whats under there, maybe a connection is undone...id be able to see that..i could tape it up again after...or maybe inside the usb end there might be connections in there...

Any other suggestions before i operate? LoL...???
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The design of our JP1 cables has changed and evolved over time, as we discover newer and better ways of doing it, so it could just be that DIY is still using one of the older designs that worked for the remotes that we had at the time but doesn't work for all remotes.

We got very lucky when we found that ebay seller selling a genuine FTDI cable for $9 shipped, the only problem is that it's coming from China so it might take 3 weeks or so to reach you, and it doesn't have a single 6-hole connector, it has 6 individual connectors, so for it to be useful you have to either replace the connector (maybe with the one from your DIY cable) or just glue them together. The pinout details are in the thread that I linked you to.
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mathdon
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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The posted pics show that class5vapor's cable uses the FT231X chip, which is relatively new, so the cable will not be an old design. The vast majority of Tommy Tyler's cables used the FT232R chip but he was converting to the (then) just released FT230X when he stopped making cables. I take it that the FT231X is a later development from the FT230X. So perhaps the situation is that the DIYgadget cable is a new design that has not been tested with JP2 remotes. I have a FT230X cable of Tommy's and have tested that it works with my 1056B03, so in principle I would expect a FT231X cable to be OK too, but presumably it depends on the design, of which we know nothing. Also, do we know if the older v2.10.xx drivers work with the FT231X chip?
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class5vapor



Joined: 20 May 2016
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, mathdon & Rob, thanks for your insight. I've gone ahead and purchased a cable from your link, Rob, thanks. So yeah that'll take about 3+ weeks and that's fine. I'll take the time to read-up more on this new mini-hobby for me. I went ahead and slit the shrink tubing...here's what we have dunno for colors but pins that should be empty are I'd have to pop-off the usb part cover and match up what's what - not there yet. Tell me if you already see anything odd.



=]

*edit:

Just "got there" in regards to the usb half...here's what's under the hood there...




...and yeah I'll probably use the 6-pin connector from this on the new cable once it confirm it's working as is when I get it...


Last edited by class5vapor on Sun May 22, 2016 7:11 pm; edited 1 time in total
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class5vapor



Joined: 20 May 2016
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mathdon wrote:
The posted pics show that class5vapor's cable uses the FT231X chip, which is relatively new, so the cable will not be an old design. The vast majority of Tommy Tyler's cables used the FT232R chip but he was converting to the (then) just released FT230X when he stopped making cables. I take it that the FT231X is a later development from the FT230X. So perhaps the situation is that the DIYgadget cable is a new design that has not been tested with JP2 remotes. I have a FT230X cable of Tommy's and have tested that it works with my 1056B03, so in principle I would expect a FT231X cable to be OK too, but presumably it depends on the design, of which we know nothing. Also, do we know if the older v2.10.xx drivers work with the FT231X chip?


As for those drivers, you can count me as either the first or one of the first to report my findings out-of-the-bag: the drivers (2.10.xx and 2.12.xx) did not work with this FT231X cable for whatever reason. I onlly have one remote i want to mess around in an it's JP2 so this cable's useless to me, but whatever I've thrown higher amounts of $$$ down the can on other ventures - lessons learned: gamble on cheap things, LoL

So...if there are even older drivers or whatnot that might work: heck throw them my way, can't hurt. It's weird that the remote's responding with LED flashes when the command to d/l it's innards is sent...it's "kinda" there...but not fully...

I'm glad to try things you all suggest to me within reasons (ie: trying other drivers or switching pins around...)

Lemme know...

=]
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could also open a ticket at DIY if you like, he's pretty good at responding, he just doesn't come to the forum much unless asked to. (His user id here is "Prelude").
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3FG
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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Graham,
According to this FTDI Facebook page, the 230X and 231X are members of the same family and I infer they were designed and released at the same time. The 231X provides all UART signals while the 230X just provides RTS/CTS. So the 230X can use a smaller package and is cheaper, which is the reason Tommy chose it. Given that, I am quite confident that the 231X will work with any of our serial remotes, just as the 230X does.

class5vapor,
When RMIR tries to put a JP2 remote into communication mode, it pulls the RTS line low, and that puts the micro into reset. After a few tens of milliseconds, RMIR brings RTS back to normal (high), and the micro can start its boot-up sequence. If it receives a correctly formed "Begin Communication mode" message during the first 200ms or so, it enters communication mode. Eventually, RMIR will send a End Communication message, and at that point the remote should blink twice. So I imagine that your remote is entering communication mode, but RMIR isn't able to successfully communicate with it.

If you'd like to investigate, we have a tool called JP2Sniffer that allow you to better control the sequence of events.
Plug in your cable, start JP2Sniffer, tell it which Com port, go to the Low Level tab, and click Begin Comm. Hopefully, you'll see 00 02 51 53 00 02 00 02. The program sends 00 02 51 53, and the remote should send back 00 02 00 02. If it does send back 00 02 00 02, then click Get Info, and Get SigBlk, copy the text and post it here. If there is no reception from the remote or some other set of bytes, click End Comm while watching the remotes LED. It should blink twice. Additionally, a normally operating 1056B03 will send a few seconds of repeated bytes, like e.g. 00 00 07. Let us know what you see.
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