H/K AVR230 & URC 9960

winiden · Post by **winiden** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 8:57 am

Hi all,
I'm a total newbie to JP1 and the world of higher end remotes. My apologies if these questions are answered elsewhere, I didn't find them in a cursory search.

I have a Harman/Kardon AVR230 reciever that has discrete on and off codes. I'd like to reprogram my URC9960 so that the power button will alternately send the on and off codes, using one button for both on and off, or find one code that will work for both on and off for this device.

Additionally, I'd like to reprogram the device keys on the remote so then when pressed, they will change the remote's "mode of operation" to DVD, TV, etc. as normal but will also send a signal to the reciever to change inputs at the same time.

Before I purchase a JP1 cable I'd like to know if this is even possible. I notice that the remote does not have connector pins, but rather flat "dots" on the printed circuit board where the JP1 connection is made. Will this require a special cable or modification? Thanks in advance for your help.

Post by **The Robman** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 9:52 am

1. For this you can use the "toadtog" special protocol.
2. To accomplish this you will need to use this remote's "extender".
3. You can either modify the remote or you will need to buy (or make) a "pogo pin" adapter.

To modify the remote, once the remote is open, put a small amount of flux on each of the 6 pads, then stand a 6-pin connector on them.

To do the soldering, you will need an iron with a "sharp pencil" type of tip, rather than a blunt end sort of tip.

Next, put a small amount of solder on the tip and then solder one of the corner pins (while it stands on the pad). Then repeat for the other pins, taking care not to let the solder run between the pins causing a short.

When the pins are soldered, hook it up to your JP1 cable to make sure you have connectivity and no shorts, but be careful attaching and removing the cable, as you don't want to pull the pins away from the PCB.

Once the pins are tested, get a hot glue gun and put lots of hot glue all around the base of the pins to give them a solid foundation.

You will notice that there is a black plastic framework attached to the PCB. I have found that there is enough room in the openings in this framework to do the soldering and glue work, but if you need more space, you can remove this framework.

To do so, first remove all the screws, then flip it over. On the "button" side you will notice the tops of 3 or 4 plastic poles that help to hold the framework onto the PCB. You will need to cut the tops off of these poles to remove the frame. These don't really serve any purpose as the screws hold everything together, so removing them won't cause any problems.

winiden · Post by **winiden** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 10:45 am

Thanks Rob. I'll probably just buy the connector with the pogo-pin adapter if that'll work, rather than soldering, something I've yet to master. I mainly wanted to know that those functions were possible, and it sounds like they are, so I'm encouraged. Thanks again for replying! I'm sure when I get the cable and start working on it I'll have a ton of questions...

Nils_Ekberg · Post by **Nils_Ekberg** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 10:57 am

With the pogo adapter you may have a hard time holding the pogo pins in place over the pads long enough to upload and download. If you do I would suggest you take a piece of perf board either with holes large enough for the pogo pins to pass thru or enlarge the holes but just large enough for the pins. Then cut a piece out with just the 6 holes you need and super glue it over the pads as a guide for the pogo pins. Make sure you can see all the pads thru the holes before you glue it.

Post by **The Robman** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 11:22 am

Or, if it's easier to just buy a Kameleon with the 6-pin already soldered and glued into place, I have one available for $60.