JP1 Remotes

[Jim978]

Button issues have me thinking it may be time to replace my aging URC-8820 remotes. I got my hands on an Atlas 1056B03 (JP3) for evaluation purposes, but discovered that I need to replace my Prolific chip based cable for this remote. Right now it would be possible to get half a dozen new 1056B01 (JP1.3) remotes for less than the cost of a domestically available FTDI based cable. So I'm wondering whether the B03 offers any advantages that would justify the additional outlay, or whether it makes more sense to go with the B01 model.

Thanks in advance for your comments.
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Jim

[mdavej]

From what I've read, the 03 is a terrible remote (can't even do a keymove). So, yes, any other remote would be much better.

Since you're replacing an 8820, do you not want learning and more devices. The Atlas is very cheap, but seems like a poor replacement. The old Radio Shack 15-135 is very similar to the 8820 and has more devices than Atlas.

An FTDI cable is only $8 and takes only 3 weeks to get from China. But I agree, it is wasted on the 03.

[3FG]

[The Robman]

Assuming the 8820s still work, he could keep them as learning remotes, for capturing new devices, which means the replacement remotes wouldn't need to be learning remotes.
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Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

[Jim978]

Thanks mdavej, 3FG, and The Robman,

In a perfect world the URC-8820 would still be manufactured and sold ... in a perfect world. If that were the case, I'd simply buy new 8820s. I am only considering other remotes because my 8820 buttons are failing regularly and I've yet to identify a repair that is anything close to permanent (but I'm still looking). That's the reason I have been focused on new remotes, since their buttons shouldn't fail in the near future.

My first universal remote was a Radio Shack 15-1994. When the buttons on that remote began giving me trouble, I discovered the URC-8820. I wasn't even aware that JP1 programming existed when I bought my first 8820. Discovering JP1 and this forum was a happy accident that didn't come about until sometime later. It was a most fortunate accident, of course. Now I can't imagine life without a JP1 programmable remote and the support I can access here.

The 1056B03 I have for evaluation right now leaves a lot (an awful lot) to be desired. However, it does sound like an extender would address those shortcomings, while adding additional capabilities that I'm sure I would appreciate.

Since I have the luxury of time (and existing learning remotes I could use to find discrete codes if and when needed), the question is whether the B01 or the B03 is better ... or if they are merely different. Whatever the case, since both are available inexpensively (roughly $4 each when purchased in quantity) I plan to stock up to prepare for future button issues.

So, if it were you, would you buy a new cable and go with the B03 and mini-extender, opt for the B01 and traditional extender, or pour yourself a beer and flip a coin?
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Jim

[mdavej]

As 3FG pointed out, you lose a whole lot more than you gain. The extender adds DSM to the 01 (among many, many other things), and our upgrade files add any new executors. Plus your cable is compatible. So, overall, the 01 is much better (just look at what the extender can do). I would avoid the 03. No need to flip a coin.

But there are much better JP1 remotes out there with backlighting, more devices, etc.

[Jim978]

Just an FYI!

I purchased Atlas 1056B01 remotes online, and they are more than adequate for my purposes. They don't allow LKP macros on the device keys like the URC 8820, but I've created macros for those functions using shifted device keys. Also, the power LKP only works in CBL mode, but another macro using a shifted power key solves that problem as well. Otherwise, I've set this remote up to duplicate the functioning of my 8820 remotes.

Regarding the device and power macros, the shift (setup) button is recessed, which makes it a bit harder to press. Is there a way to assign the shift function to another remote button? I've been trying, but haven't figured out any way to do it.

The key layout is different than the 8820, of course, but the Atlas does have backlighting (which can be turned off). In time I will be able to operate the Atlas by feel like the 8820. Until then I will keep the backlighting turned on so I can see what I'm doing in low light situations.

I don't need to use an extender (I still have move/macro space of 386 remaining after setting everything up), but I decided to experiment with one any way. It was a valuable learning experience (translation ... I bricked the remote). Since there seems to be no way to reinstall the firmware on the remote, I think I will keep it around in case I need to cannibalize it for parts (if I can figure out how to disassemble the thing, that is).

Bricking the remote wasn't a huge loss. I still have five left. If any one is interested, I bought these remotes on ebay from a vendor I can enthusiastically recommend. The vendor shipped the same day I ordered, and the remotes were delivered cross country three days later. You can't beat the price either. You can get 6 of these remotes delivered for just over $23! What's there not to like?

Thanks again to everyone!
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Jim

[The Robman]

I think we are sometimes able to restore bricked remotes, if you post details.
_________________
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

[The Robman]

I split your reply off to a new thread so that it will hopefully get the attention of the experts
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17157
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Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

[MaskedMan]

To fix the 8820, try looking for urc-6131N's, the buttons line up with the 8820. Just trade rubber membranes.
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Edmund