JP1 Remotes

[Jim-W]

Came across a Cox URC-8820-MOTO, got a cable working but here's what I found

No Learning
No DSM
External Functions don't work
No commands or macros on a device key (it's nice to change to the correct input via a device key)
MCE protocol is not compatible?

I really like the feel and easy/soft/silent button presses of this remote, but if I'm correct about the above limitations, it's a deal breaker for me... bummer.

If anyone has any workarounds for the above issues, I'm all ears.

Thanks

J

[mdavej]

Yep, that one is a dog. Exchange it for a different model if you can.

[Jim-W]

$9 USD shipped, in the junk drawer it goes.

Any experience with the Comcast URC 1067/1068 or the Charter 1060 BC2/BC3?

I don't need learning but I do need External Functions and prefer 4 device but a 3 device could work.

Thanks for the help and advice.

[mdavej]

I'm not crazy about any of them, but the 1067 would be the most versatile since it at least has an extender. I have several you could have cheap, say $4 each?

What's your max price? $17 on ebay will get you a backlit, learning, 15 device, JP1 remote with LCD for favorites with logos and extra functions and activity macros, the Xsight Color. Blows cheap cable remotes completely out of the water.

[3FG]

Regarding the Comcast remotes, I guess it is different strokes, etc. I have a whole drawer full of remotes, but the entire family (including me) uses Comcast remotes. They feel good in the hand, have good range, and we don't have to look at the remote to use it.

Anyway, The 1068 is really old, so you shouldn't get it. Also, there are three versions of the 1067.
1) the original 1067 has a HCS08 processor (JP1.2) and has a quite old setup code base. Vicky wrote an extender for it, so it is pretty versatile, but it does have a flaw in the keymove logic. It can be recognized by the grey colored OK/Select button and has signature 1009. I seldom see these for sale anymore, and I advise to get one of the two newer ones.
2) the 1067BX3--or BC3 or pretty much anything ending in a 3--is a JP1.3 remote with the Samsung S3F80 processor. Every protocol executor seen on this site has a version implemented for the Samsung processor. It has a red OK/Select button with signature 3039. There is an extender.
3) the 1067BC4 has a MAXQ610 processor (JP2) and a very complete setup code base. We have minimal tools for writing protocol executors for the MAXQ processors, but so far none have been needed, because even very new IR protocols have an executor already built in. It has a 5 digit signature 25562, and also has a red OK/Select button. There is no extender.

The Charter remotes are also JP2. I don't have any experience with them.

[Jim-W]

Thanks for the great responses!

I have a Charter OCAP-4 C4000 ordered, be here tomorrow. I noticed in the Charter manual that it supports 994 keymoves, I would think it should support keymoves in RM.

Budget is not an issue but I've come to the conclusion that finding the right JP1 remote is the way to go. When one breaks I can duplicate another in an instant thanks to the wonderful JP1.

Every remote I have is unacceptable in one way or another. In my junk box sits...

2 ARRX18G XSight Touches - Too easy to touch the screen by accident, button rows below the screen are too small for my fat thumbs. Learning a command is hit and miss, usually miss.

2 ARRX12G Xsight Plus/Lite - OK button is too tiny... instant deal breaker.

Atlas 1056B01 - Buttons are too hard to press, especially for kids and women... gave me a sore thumb .

1 URC-8820-MOTO - What a junker this one is, no External Functions.

RCA RCRP05B - Buttons are just to small and close together.

OARUSB04G - The skip buttons have delays due to their dual function, buttons are too clicky, not enough buttons and you can't put a command or macro on the device buttons.

Philips SRU-6008 - Cannot save a backup, hard to read the screen, too many steps to change devices/inputs.

Harmony 600 - OK button is too small and skip buttons have delays that Repeat/Delay settings won't fix.

Harmony 300 - Only one activity button and no macro/sequences, slow skips.

I had and returned a Harmony Home control because yet again... slow/delayed skips.

And a bunch of other non JP1 remotes.

Why are fast/no delay skips so important to me? Skipping through commercials.

These forums are awesome and I really appreciate you guys and your informative responses, thank you... I'm officially addicted .

Edit: I'm shying away from the Comcast due to only 3 devices and transport buttons are at the top.

[mdavej]

Seems you've tried everything else I would have recommended. I've had a few C4000's in service for years. Should be fine for your purposes.

[ruidosobruce]

mdavej

I know this is an old thread and I have read most (all) of your previous posts on the URC-8820-MOTO remote.

I realize that in many ways, they have limited function (dogs). I have several of these and find them attractive and easy to operate. The labeling on the remote is URC-8820-MOTO Version 1.2 (Battery sticker: URC-8820BC3-MOT-R.

I would really like to be able to communicate with it with RMIR. I have made a 5-pin cable which appears to work. In RMIR I can do a raw download which seems correct.

I have RDF files for URC-8820BC1 and URC-8820BC1.2 which look identical. Those RDF signatures are 253602 and 253701. When I do a normal download from my remote in RMIR, it reports "No RDF matching signature starting 2582.

When I read the signature from the remote blinkback (983) it reports 25823.

What should be my next steps to be able to download and upload to this remote? Thanks.

Bruce

[mdavej]

It's a bit risky, but you could just make a copy of the RDF and change the file name to match the new signature. This is assuming the new model is similar enough, which we don't know for sure. If it doesn't work, then we'll have to do our normal detective work for building an RDF from scratch. User binky123 or 3FG may be able to help with that.

One more thing, could you try the signature blink back again and confirm there isn't another digit? Last one could be zero. We should also be able to tell from the raw download, if you could post that.

Ever had a significant other with great looks but nothing going on between the ears? That's what the 8820 is like. Sometimes in a relationship, you have to recognize that it's never really going to workout and move on. There are other fish (remotes) in the sea.

[mathdon]

Blink-back on JP2 remotes does only return 5 values. For some unknown reason the 5th blink-back is actually the last two digits, so 5 blinks is 05 (eleven blinks would be 11). So your signature is 258203 and that is the string you would need to put at the beginning of the RDF name.
_________________
Graham

[ruidosobruce]

I don't know how RMIR searches for the correct RDF during a download, but I renamed a duplicate of 253602 (URC-8820BC1).rdf to 258203 (URC-8820BC1).rdf in the RDF folder. Now the error is "Error downloading from remote. This may well be the result . . ."

[mdavej]

So our gamble didn't work. This will require a new RDF. If you want to get a head start, there are other threads where we describe how to work out the button maps and a few other details. Beyond that part, you'll need expert help which I can't provide.

[ruidosobruce]

I tried a new RDF but I still get upload and download errors. Maybe someone who knows this 5-pin interface can check my connections in the photo. Pin numbers are those of the 6-pin JP1.3 connector.

[mdavej]

[mathdon]

If you post the rmaster.err file (in the installation folder) from an attempt at downloading with your original re-named RDF, we may be able to deduce something helpful from that. But PLEASE post it in the Diagnosis area of our forum, not in some private dropbox that we know nothing about.
_________________
Graham