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4-pin connector with simple interface

 
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egn



Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 50

PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2004 2:13 am    Post subject: 4-pin connector with simple interface Reply with quote

Hi,

in the URC-8060 remote there is not much space to install a typical 6-pin connector. I did it but then it is hard to replace the batteries. I now thought about installing a 4-pin connector like it in the Pronto remote and connect the pin 1 and 2 permanently in the remote. This would allow to keep the battery compartment closed and just plug in a male 4-pin tip plug when necessary. I may even be able to use my Pronto programming cable together with a small adapter.

Do you see any problem when pin 1 and 2 of the JP1 connector are permanently connected?

Thanks,
Emil
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johnsfine
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Joined: 10 Aug 2003
Posts: 4766
Location: Bedford, MA

PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2004 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Won't that be an extra drain on the batteries when the remote is idle?
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egn



Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 50

PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2004 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnsfine wrote:
Won't that be an extra drain on the batteries when the remote is idle?


The question is whether this is critical. Smile

As far as I understand the connection provides power to the EEPROM for programming. If the additional power needed would cut the lifetime of the batteries in half it wouldn't be a problem. But if the drain is so large that it would drain down the batteries within a week than this certainly is no alternative.

To overcome such a case it would be easy to add an additional small switch into the battery compartment.

Emil
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RichardP



Joined: 17 Jan 2004
Posts: 108
Location: UK

PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2004 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the 8040 (the 4 device Kameleon) there is no way to use a standard connector, there is no room physically, you could not change the batteries if you could add one and there are only pads and no holes.

The solution I used was to solder on the connector via a short piece of ribon cable, this could be coiled up and put out of the way when not in use and when in use could be just poked out of the battery compartment cover.

Richard
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egn



Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 50

PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2004 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the 8060 there are holes and as a short-term solution I soldered 6 short pins in. I can put the normal connector that I also use to program a URC-7541 onto the pins. To hold the batteries during programming I made a small block from wood with a typical battery spring. I just plug this block between connector and batteries.

Yes, you are right. It isn't possible to change the batteries (easily). I did it once by bending the outer pins of the soldered pins to the middle, but that cannot be done very often or the pins will break. So I thought of putting in a very small 4-pin connector. I don't know how it is called, but the same are used for stereo headphones, just with 4 signals instead of only 3. The Pronto uses such a connector.

It may be also possible to use two standard 2.5 mm stereo connectors and put one on the left and one at the right side.

Emil
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Nils_Ekberg
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Joined: 02 Aug 2003
Posts: 1689
Location: Near Albany, NY

PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2004 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Emil

I also tried a variety of solutions on the 8060 and in the end found it best to use the standard Kameleon adapter and pogo pins. If you don't like the fact that the adapter requires you to leave the cover off you can remove the adapter and put the cover on when done programming.

I never seem to be done programming so my adapter stays in forever so I smoothed the edges of the adapter with sand paper so it did not feel bad on the hands.
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irhacker



Joined: 12 Jun 2004
Posts: 9

PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2004 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I made my jp1 ultra for my 8060, I pushed some pcb header pins through a piece of strip board, such that the little ring that stops the pins going through the board were pushed up against the non-copper side, with the short end of the pins on that side (I actually also cut about half the length off that end of the pins.) I then tacked them to the strips on the other side with solder, and soldered the wires from my cable (a bit of cat-5) to the strips adjacent to the pins. You can actually get pins with solder buckets which would have made it even easier. The result is a removable connector with good contact to the pads on the remote. I made a really simple battery clip with another piece of strip board and a couple of paper clips.

If you make the connector bit of stripboard just long enough, the battery clip board can rest against it at the bottom, making everything more rigid.

Basically, I put the batteries in, then the battery clip, then slot the connecter in. It's not that neat, but seems to work well. I can upload some photos if you are interested.
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