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Build a Flash Interface for the Cost of a Gallon of Gasoline
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eferz
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Joined: 03 Jun 2010
Posts: 1078
Location: Austin, Texas

                    
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

binky123 wrote:
eferz,
google nokia ca-42 pinout. I found a pic that had the cable colors matched to RS232 signals and it doesn't seem to have DTS or RTS. RX,TX,GND,+3.3v are there along with 2 N/C.


Doh! I actually already sent the cable to Tommy. Sad

But is this the sort of example you were referring?

Quote:

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Remotes; JP1.2: Comcast URC-1067, JP1.3: Insignia NS-RC02U-10A, JP1.4 OARI06G, JP2.1: Cox URC-8820-MOTO (still trying to figure out how to make them self-aware.)
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Tommy Tyler
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Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Posts: 412
Location: Denver mountains

                    
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stealing any ideas I could from eferz and mdavej, I have published an article HERE on how to build a 5-pin adapter for using a flash interface with a URC-8820 remote.
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
Posts: 21234
Location: Chicago, IL

                    
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tommy Tyler wrote:
Stealing any ideas I could from eferz and mdavej, I have published an article HERE on how to build a 5-pin adapter for using a flash interface with a URC-8820 remote.

This one cracks me up. I was expecting a cable adapter, but this is even simpler!
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Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
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Tommy Tyler
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Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Posts: 412
Location: Denver mountains

                    
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have revised the instructions HERE to clarify the proper source of the CA-42 data cable.
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pH7_jp1



Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Posts: 480
Location: Sterling Heights, MI

                    
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished building 3 cables using Tommy's excellent instructions. Here was my cost, including shipping for all 3. I didn't count the heat shrink since I always have a load of all sizes on hand.

Code:

$12.89 (3 phone cables from Deal Extreame)
 $1.42 (10 ft USB cable from MonoPrice)
$10.51 (5 connectors from Digi-Key)
------
$24.82 (Total for parts for 3 cables)

 $8.27 each

The hardest part of the whole process was getting the strain relief off of the original cable. I ended up using Tommy's suggested method this way:

  1. Cut the cable a few inches from the strain relief
  2. Pull each of the 3 individual wires out one at a time
  3. With pliers, tug each direction on the short (inner) end of the cable just to free it up as much as possible
  4. Apply heat gun to the inner part of the strain relief (where the cable probably tore off in the prior step)
  5. Twist and pull the strain relief

To my surprise, the cable pulled out clean. My finished cables looked very professional, much better than they would have if I had to figure it all out by myself.
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Barf
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Joined: 24 Oct 2008
Posts: 1414
Location: Munich, Germany

                    
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently created two such cables, and made two observations that I would like to document:


    * Although apparently only three wires are coming out of the cable, there were in my gadget actually four inside, just that the forth was cut with the end of the isolation. I.e., no need to buy another cable.
    * Following the instructions, when shrinking there was melted glue coming out through the holes of the JP1 connector, rending it unusable. The remedy was to put a male plug into the connector before turning on the "dragons breath", to protect the holes from the glue.
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pH7_jp1



Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Posts: 480
Location: Sterling Heights, MI

                    
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I still had the discarded cable removed from the ones I got from DealExtreme. I cut one at the halfway point and checked. Still only 3 wires, so obviously YMMV.

Great tip on putting a male connector in while heat shrinking. I started the heat at the square end and after shrinking it tight, worked my way along the heat shrink, so didn't have that problem. If I do any more, I will use your idea as well.
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Tommy Tyler
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Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Posts: 412
Location: Denver mountains

                    
PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's bad news and good news. First the bad news. I am totally disgusted with the Nokia Flash Interface concept and regret ever publishing instructions for building it. I have tried every way possible to correspond with Chinese merchants and manufacturers to try and verify a reliable source for the unique version of CA-42 that works. I've sent illustrated e-mails to the stores in eBay. I've sent illustrated e-mails to members of the Made-in-China organization requesting quantity quotes, trying to emulate as best I can the broken English they use in their correspondence. I've posted in the DealExtreme forum that promises help. Not one reply in the past month. For a culture that's always on the lookout for a way to make a buck, you'ld think we were at war with them. So I'm posting this final note recommending against trying to build this interface unless you just love to gamble.

Now the good news. I've published an article HERE that shows an easier way to build a better interface. It costs a little more than Nokia, but less than the price I had to charge at my store. It's built like a battleship and uses the FTDI chip and drivers we've learned to love. And it takes even less technical skill to build than the Nokia. You don't even need a soldering iron. Ah, but best of all, it puts an end to waiting for weeks and weeks for parts to arrive by mail from those fly-by-night merchants in Hong Kong or China.
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Barf
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Joined: 24 Oct 2008
Posts: 1414
Location: Munich, Germany

                    
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you very much Tommy for publishing your guides. As described in other postings, I tried cables from two different sources, out of which both worked. By risking being a smart-ass: what was possibly not so wise was to advertise the CA-42 solution as THE solution, the next best thing after sliced bread. Clearly the FTDI-solution is superior.
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smbs



Joined: 27 Mar 2012
Posts: 58

                    
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 5:56 am    Post subject: ca-42 from Dealextreme Reply with quote

Just received 2 cables ordered about 2 weeks ago
No go---they are the molded type!!!
Conclusion --dont touch DX
Steven
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madmalkav



Joined: 01 Sep 2011
Posts: 63

                    
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just received one cable for DX and it was the correct type. Lucky me. Now to figure why I can't get it to work.
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smbs



Joined: 27 Mar 2012
Posts: 58

                    
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:54 am    Post subject: Re: ca-42 from Dealextreme Reply with quote

smbs wrote:
Just received 2 cables ordered about 2 weeks ago
No go---they are the molded type!!!
Conclusion --dont touch DX
Steven

On looking at them again and forcing a knife as shown by Tommy in his tutorial much to my suprise I managed to open the USB covers---so my mistake DX supplied me with non moldered usb connector now I will see if it works!
Sorry to mislead
Steven
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madmalkav



Joined: 01 Sep 2011
Posts: 63

                    
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting this error. Difference with tommy's guide is I just used a idc6 cable I had here, striped one of the connectors, and soldered the cables 2 3 4 and 6 to the corresponding spots. Any idea of what I'm doing wrong?



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madmalkav



Joined: 01 Sep 2011
Posts: 63

                    
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little bump to this, as I can't figure what I'm doing wrong.
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Steevo



Joined: 25 Aug 2012
Posts: 52

                    
PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 12:08 am    Post subject: Prolific chip Reply with quote

I read through this old Nokia cellphone cable hack. It seems this is a Prolific chip based USB to serial interface, and nothing more.

Right?

There are Prolific based USB to Serial dongles available, I am using one.

If any old USB to Serial interface will work (IE, does it have to be Prolific) why do we have to make anything more than a DB9 to JP1 cable and just plug it in? It's just plain USB to serial, flash is serial programmable.

Is that about right, or is there something odd about that Nokia cable?

Come to think of it I have lots of those USB to serial dongles, if FTDI is the preferred chip I am sure I have one.
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