JP1 Remotes

Recently the POWER key on my mother-in-law's beloved Big Easy URC-3300 stopped working. I knew that using rear window defogger paint would be a temporary fix at best, so after some internet research, I found someone who recommended using the conductive rubber from a disposable grounding wrist strap. The one I used is from a local electronic surplus store, and at 99 cents for a four-foot strap, it will fix an awful lot of keys. I cut a tiny square off and used doublestick tape to affix it to the bottom of the key. So far it's working perfectly.

Here's the one I used:
http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/s ... 17/3M-2209

I was just sent a link to this via email.

Chemtronics Rubber Keypad Repair Kit: $13.99
(Chemtronics Part #: CW2605 | MCM Order #: 20-3890)
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/20-3890

Here is another thread where someone tried to fix worn out buttons:
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mb ... d.cgi?5740

Recently the POWER key on my mother-in-law's beloved Big Easy URC-3300 stopped working. After some internet research, I found someone who recommended using the conductive rubber from a disposable grounding wrist strap. The one I used is from a local electronic surplus store, and at 99 cents for a four-foot strap, it will fix an awful lot of keys. I cut a tiny square off and used doublestick tape to affix it to the bottom of the key. So far it's working perfectly.

Here's the one I used:
http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/s ... 17/3M-2209

That sounds like a pretty cool idea, but I'm surprised that double stick tape will hold it. How long ago did you fix it?

Another low cost solution, which is crude but apparently works, is to glue aluminum foil to the bottom of the warn out button.

What kind of glue should be used? I tried contact cement (twice) on my 8910, but it didn't stick for long (twice).

The Robman wrote:That sounds like a pretty cool idea, but I'm surprised that double stick tape will hold it. How long ago did you fix it?
...

Myself, I'd go with double-sided carpet tape. Very thin, flexible, and sticks better than glue.

Rob, the grounding strap rubber has been working for three months now.

[for clarity, this post was the start of a new thread, but then it got merged with the post above to form a single combined thread]

I've followed instructions found in the forums here on cleaning the sheet of buttons with soap, water, and a toothbrush and cleaning the contacts on the pcb. It made a huge difference, but the most heavily used buttons still aren't "like new". Unlike other buttons, they require more than a "feather touch" to activate.

Because I like my remote and don't really feel like going through the process of determining what remote is the latest and greatest and best meets my needs, ordering, figuring out and programming button layouts, and then memorize the new button locations, I thought it might be nice if there is some way to re-coat the button pads with whatever conductive "paint" was applied to them originally. Has anyone ever done this? Is there something I can order (or buy locally somewhere) to make buttons like "select" and "play" work like the day I bought the remote again?

TheShanMan wrote:I thought it might be nice if there is some way to re-coat the button pads with whatever conductive "paint" was applied to them originally. Has anyone ever done this? Is there something I can order (or buy locally somewhere) to make buttons like "select" and "play" work like the day I bought the remote again?

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... 3465#93465

Interesting. However, I'd think that it would add too much thickness to the button compared to painting some chemical on, no? Worth looking into at least. Thanks for the link.

TheShanMan wrote:Interesting. However, I'd think that it would add too much thickness to the button compared to painting some chemical on, no? Worth looking into at least. Thanks for the link.

I would imagine the thickness of the ESD strap would be pretty negligible considering all it is is a copper film with adhesive backing. But, you should note there were two methods that can be extrapolated from that post, "rear window defogger paint" or the ESD strap. Whichever one you choose would be up to you.

Hmmm. It appears the 2 threads have been merged.

I did sort of overlook the point about the defogger paint since it said "temporary at best" but I guess the question is what does "temporary" mean. If it's a year, then it's probably a viable option for consideration.

I figured an ESD strap would have a non-negligible thickness (at least in terms of the space between the button pad and the pcb) but again, definitely worth looking into.

You could try a product like this...
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/2 ... =220224889

TheShanMan wrote:I did sort of overlook the point about the defogger paint since it said "temporary at best" but I guess the question is what does "temporary" mean. If it's a year, then it's probably a viable option for consideration.

I don't know the period in between. Apparently, it flakes off when it does, so I'm not sure that is the best choice. I did use the forum search to try to figure out how long people were reporting but wasn't able to find any results. However, I did notice that Rob recommended a Rubber Keypad Repair Kit. Though the link in his original post is dead, I found a suitable replacement probably from the originating company in his original link, "CircuitWorks Rubber Keypad Repair Kit"

TheShanMan wrote:I figured an ESD strap would have a non-negligible thickness (at least in terms of the space between the button pad and the pcb) but again, definitely worth looking into.

I would think that would depend on the wrist strap. The reusable ones would definitely be too much for it. The disposable ones I've used before have very little thickness to them. But then again, I used them for their designed purpose not as a make-shift repair kit to remote controls.

There's also the poor man's fix, which is to just superglue aluminum tin foil to the bottom on the buttons.