JP1 Remotes

[Capn Trips]

Another approach I've seen (and even used) is to simply leave the Satellite or Cable box on all of the time. You should check, but in most cases, particularly if it's a DVR box, the box does not actually turn "Off" but goes into "Standby" and the power consumption in "Standby" is virtually the same as when the box is "On" so you gain nothing by turning it "Off".

It goes against any ideas of being ecologically prudent, but it may in fact make no difference.
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Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)

[greenrl]

What a great group you are! If I could take all of the hints, suggestions, and tips found on this JP1 site, I could fill a "JP1 for Dummies" book. Thanks again.

Richard

[vickyg2003]

greenrl,
I had some time on my hands this morning, and took a look at your setup.
This is the one from 4 days ago, so you may have changed this some since then.

One thing that struck me right off the bat is you are hardly using any punch through either with keymoves or with your setup macros.

One of the best features with these remotes is the ability to add punchthrough so that you don't have to be constantly changing back and forth between modes.

For example
I see that your TV is a wide screen, I just got one myself, and I know that I couldn't function without having the aspect mode available in all modes.
I do this by adding keymoves to the various modes.

Also for volume punch through, do you really have that many items that use their own volume selectors?

1 AUD V_AUD
2 AUX1 V_AUX
3 AUX2 V_AUX2
4 CD V_TV
5 SAT V_SAT
6 CBL V_TV
7 DVD V_AUD
8 PVR V_TV
9 TV V_TV
10 VCR uses last selected

Does your TV really have its own Transport keys, or should thouse be left to use last selected too.

But on to your problem with the discrete on/off not working right for CBL

Here is your discrete on for Cbl

8
CBL SHIFT-Up ToadTog(0,ForceOn)
[Already On]:X_CBL;Phantom1
[Off->On]:
X_CBL;
Phantom1;
X_CANCEL;
X_CBL;
Phantom1

I don't have a clue as to why there is a x_cancel, X_cable in the middle of the off side, but that is not going to buy you any time. If you are trying to deal with a duration problem, you might want this side to be Phantom1,phantom1, phantom1, phantom1 because x_cancel,x_cbl is a very tiny delay, probably not enough to do anything for you.

However, I think if this were my problem macro that I'd switch things around so that the CBL on was the very last thing that was going on so that the CBL-Phantom1 on would be the last thing in the macro so that you can use the actual button hold to control the duration, but with that 15 seconds you need for your TV to accept the input, this doesn't seem reasonable.
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Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.

Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.

[greenrl]

[vickyg2003]

[jimdunn]

I may be confused here, but it still seems to me you have an unnecessary set of ToadTogs for the CBL device.

You are tracking the TV power state in a ToadTog, so that you can conditionally pause if the TV is starting from cold - fair enough...

But for the CBL, you are using a ToadTog, and sending a discrete on command (Phantom1) from within the ForceOn.

You don't seem to be making any "decisions" based on the power state of CBL, so why are you tracking its power state at all ?

Just sending Discrete On/Off power commands seems to be all you need to do for CBL - that's the point of Discretes - if its already On, discrete On will have no effect, but if its off, Discrete on will turn it on (and vice versa for Discrete Offs) - all without any ToadTogs.

I don't know if that's going to solve your problem - probably not, since Vicky has looked at the actual output, and the Phantom1 seems to get sent OK in both cases, but it does seem to be an unnecessary, potentially error prone layer of confusion/complication - unless I'm missing the reason you need to track CBL power state.

[greenrl]

Yes, I know the Dish does not turn on because there is a power LED on the front panel and the TV is on the s-video input.

I have no way to tell what the remote is sending out.

As I say, it is befuddling. And YMMV.
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Currently use a URC-8820B00 that needs to be replaced now and then because some keys wear the conductor off.

[greenrl]

jimdunn,

At this point, the only reason I am using the TT for the Dish force on is because after many many tries to use only the discrete on in this scenario have failed and only the TT turns it on in the extender. Go figure!

Gotta run, be back later.

Richard
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Currently use a URC-8820B00 that needs to be replaced now and then because some keys wear the conductor off.

[jimdunn]

In that case, I don't know what is going on, sorry.

Vicky has determined that the remote is sending the signal - so it should be working.

Confusingly, if I'm reading it right, it seems to be that this signal just doesn't work when the TV is already on?

If that's not right - don't even read the probable nonsense below...


If that is so, and because this is starting to look so odd and unpredictable,
Here's a really off the wall suggestion:
Physically unplug the TV power so that it can't power on - then try both scenarios of running the macros again.

There was a situation in Australia where one of the Satellite providers released a box which had endless remote control problems for some buttons for some users - turned out in the end that some models of flat screen TVs were interfering with some of the infra red signals.

This is so unlikely to be related to your problem that I hesitate even to mention it - but at least this test would be quick and easy.

[vickyg2003]

Well I do have a way to see what you are sending. I have the widget preAND your remote.

I was looking at the previous IR file you posted.

I can see that the power command is being sent two times.

My one question would be if this long LED hold for the 30 second pause might be depleating your battery, givng you a low-voltage reset. You might want to check to see if the IR is being emitted when you press the CBL key. Check through the view finder of a digital camera and see if you are getting a flash. (the phone camera will do)

Oh and I really like Jim Dunn's idea! We've seen that before on certain models of TV's
_________________
Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.

Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.

[jimdunn]

[vickyg2003]

[greenrl]

Hmmm, veddy interesting....
I will have to run the experiment with TV unplugged.
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Currently use a URC-8820B00 that needs to be replaced now and then because some keys wear the conductor off.

[greenrl]

Yippee! Problem solved. Works perfectly with the TV unplugged.

Now the question is "What to do about it"? Who wouldda thunk?

Richard
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Currently use a URC-8820B00 that needs to be replaced now and then because some keys wear the conductor off.

[mdavej]

Solutions include masking tape over the Dish IR window (acts like a filter), changing backlight setting on your TV or relocating your Dish box so it isn't awash with IR noise from your screen.