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Converting a Jp1 (old school) cable
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varaonaid



Joined: 18 Dec 2003
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 1:12 am    Post subject: Converting a Jp1 (old school) cable Reply with quote

Hello,

I've sort of lost touch with the latest and greatest JP1 incarnations but still use my old school (original?) style JP1 cable to program our RS 15-2117 remotes. We're in the process of upgrading our remotes to some Sony (non Jp1 but learning and macro capable) and I've used the JP1 to teach it some of the discrete codes, etc.

But I just realized that the only thing (literally) that we use the old desktop computer for is to connect the parallel JP1 cable and upload the data to the remote. I'd like to get rid of it. I know that I can buy a whole new Jp1 cable that's USB but they're pricey so I wondered if there's any reason that I can't just use one of the parallel to usb converter cables with the JP1 usb driver?

Does anyone see any snafus with this? I know a lot of people have used the converter cables to successfully connect ancient parallel only printers to Win 7 via USB so I couldn't think of any issues this could have but wanted input from the experts here before I buy it.

Thanks in advance!

Rae
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Capn Trips
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It won't work. The JP1 (EEPROM) parallel interfaces use a communications method that will not work with a parallel to USB adapter/converter. Your only possibility is to add a parallel port PCI card to your new computer - or just get a new USB cable from Tommy Tyler. If you anticipate ever wearing out the 2117's and a future need for new JP1 remotes, you might want to look at the USB(Flash) cable with Tommy's adapter for JP1(EEEPROM) remotes. Not cheap, but in the long run, cheaper than expensive Harmonys or Prontos
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Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
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tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
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varaonaid



Joined: 18 Dec 2003
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bummer. The 2117's are having problems which is why I was looking for alternatives. Plus, I've reaaaalllly maxed out the memory with device upgrades. Go figure.

Prontos have just been announced that they were discontinued, and I've looked at the harmonys but they're just too pricey for what I need. So I'm trying out the Sony RM-VLZ620 and I liked that I could "learn" the discrete codes to the Sony remote from the JP1. Guess at the price of a new cable I could get a used or entry Harmony to do the same, which might end up being the best idea.

Thanks for your reply though. Otherwise, I was just going to order it so you've saved me some agro, though not disappointment Wink

Thanks again!
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What sort of problems are the 15-2117s having? Chances are we can help you fix them.

If $30 is too much to spend to get a USB cable for your newer PCs, why not just keep the old one around for when you need to use JP1?
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mdavej
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

varaonaid,

PM me if you want a parallel PCI card cheap. It works fine with a JP1 cable. I don't need it anymore.
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varaonaid



Joined: 18 Dec 2003
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies! Really appreciate it.

Rob, on one of them, the stop button doesn't work reliably anymore. You have to mash the heck out of it and even then, it's a cross your fingers gamble whether or not it will work.

Secondly, I can't really figure this out but I'm literally out of memory on them. Can't quite figure that out but it's true. I use extender 2 and it's putting all the overflow into as many other memory areas as it can. I really don't have any devices that use the built in codes anymore so all of them are learned and formatted upgrades. I still have a new media player that I need to get on it as well as a new BD player so I don't think that it will be able to handle the upgrades.

I have actually been keeping around the desktop just for JP1 use as I have no other reason to use it anymore. But it's just too much clutter to keep around for nothing other than programming a remote.

I love the fact that I can get all the discrete codes and learn them onto the new Sony so I'd definitely like to keep that option around. Not sure how I'll go about doing that...parallel card for my laptop? Doesn't sound economical, might try to sell the parallel JP1 cable and put that money towards a USB cable. Alternatively, I can pick up a low end Harmony which also works via USB for the same purpose (learning discretes). Just throwing out ideas that I've been tossing around . I just really like the fact that I can get the Sony's for only $17, which means I can get the same remote for the different TV's in the house and we'll always know where the commands are, etc. I just still want to have the freedom to be able to command discretes, etc.

As a final thought, are there any newer JP1 capable remotes that I could get 4 of that would be comparable in price to the Sony? Maybe I could then justify the price of a USB JP1 cable. I've read that there are new generations etc but I'm kinda out of that loop since my RS 15-2117 is simply old school JP1. Then I could look at selling the desktop, the RS 15-2117 that's working perfectly, the JP1 parallel cable etc and putting that towards a newer JP1 system.

Any thoughts on all of this would be SUPER appreciated. Thanks so much for all the help. This place has always been uber friendly and knowledgeable.

Best!
Rachel
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3FG
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a JP1 forum, so our opinions might be biased, but.....
I think you will be better off with one of the newer JP1.3 remotes than with the VL620. For example, if you've bought a Sony Blu Ray player, the VL620 doesn't have a setup code for it! I think the primary value of the Sony remotes is that they do learn well.

I'd recommend two models:
RCA RCRP05B and the OneForAll URC-8820N or 10820N. Both are less than $20 at variously BestBuy, Walgreens, and Sears. If you're getting 4, then buying on-line would be substantially cheaper, since the shipping charge can be spread over the remotes. The RCA has (in my opinion) the better button layout for use with cable systems and Blu Ray players. It has 5 device buttons, although if you buy a cable, you can access 8 devices. The OneForAll remotes have 8 or 10 devices. Neither is backlit.

Ther is a high chance that all of your components will work with the built in setup codes, because these are new designs. (If you post a list, we can probably tell you if all components are factory supported.) In that case you can add discretes by manually programming the buttons using Extended Function Codes. However, it would probably be worth getting a JP1 flash cable to simplify management of 4 remotes. A cable also allows greater flexibility. Either way, this approach is more direct than using a JP1.x remote to generate the discrete codes and then teaching a second remote.
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MaskedMan
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The vl620 has preset code for sony blu-ray players, its a uei made remote, the sony code is 11516.

The problem with vl620 is it might be able to learn commands, but many of the models made can not.
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3FG
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I was confusing the VL610 with the VLZ620. I conflated those two model numbers to come up with a VL620, but there is no such remote.
Thanks!
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Rachel,
If the only problem with the 15-2117 is that some of the buttons are becoming hard to press, that's one of the easiest fixes out there. All you need to do is open up the remote and clean the button sheet and the PCB.

If you want to try it, and you need more detailed instructions, let me know. I just serviced my 15-2117 recently and now it works good as new.
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varaonaid



Joined: 18 Dec 2003
Posts: 99

                    
PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Robman wrote:
Hi Rachel,
If the only problem with the 15-2117 is that some of the buttons are becoming hard to press, that's one of the easiest fixes out there. All you need to do is open up the remote and clean the button sheet and the PCB.

If you want to try it, and you need more detailed instructions, let me know. I just serviced my 15-2117 recently and now it works good as new.


Definitely want to try it! Either we'll get longer life out of them for us OR we can sell them since they are JP1 IR/RF remotes and we'll be giving the buyer a fully working remote. Would love to know how to do it and how likely it is to brick the remote doing it! Smile

Thanks!

I'll check out those JP1 remotes. The Sony VLZ620 does with with a Sony BR Player, came preprogrammed to do so and works flawlessly with it. I picked up one at Best Buy to see if we'd like it and how well it learned, etc. Not backlit (only gripe) but works and learns great. Also does macros well.

Still undecided which way is best. In order to keep family peace we have two identical remotes in the living room (so both my husband and I can each have one...LOL), then need one in our bedroom and one downstairs. We have a couple of housemates so some sort of macro system is a must (same for DH, needs to be easy to work). The idea of all the remotes being identical is nice too so we're always familiar with the layout of the remote.

If you're serious about the setup info, I'll include it here:

Living Room:
Sony Bravia KDF50E3000 TV
DirecTV HR-23
Panasonic Surround Sound System (no DVD included, can't find the model # but it's weird on its codes and required some finagling, about 5 years old)
Lite-On All-Write 5005 DVD Recorder
Sony BR Player BDP-S370 (well, the Costco version which is the same but with a different model # and free HDMI cable)
Patriot Box Office Digital Media Player

Bedroom:
Sony Bravia 720P LCD TV (maybe 6 months old? still looking for the model #)
DirecTV H23-600
Samsung BR Player 1590/1600
Vizio SoundBar VSB200

Basement:
BenQ Projector
DirecTV H23-600
Sony DAVHDX277WC (DVD Surround Sound System w/5 disc changer)

So, that's it. The Sony works well so far but it's not a definite keeper if there are better options. I really appreciate all the info and will look into the two remotes mentioned. If any other thoughts come up, please let me know!

Thanks again!!!!
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varaonaid



Joined: 18 Dec 2003
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, got to admit, not incredibly wild about the look of any of those remotes...surprising that there aren't more buttons on them. I do need to control at least 6 devices in the living room so I don't know how complicated it is to get access to the 3 other devices on the RCA. Is there a current list of available JPx remotes that you could send me to?

On a more speculative thought, do you see JP1/x remotes continuing to be manufactured or do you see them phasing out? I mean, it seems like there used to me so many more available than now. What do you think?

Again, thanks! Smile
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3FG
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, in remotes, the "look" is pretty important. So you may be happier with the Sony.

There are setup codes for most of these components in either of the remotes I suggested. Without a cable , you would probably need to add a few discrete codes manually. To be fair the VLZ620 will have many of these same setup codes, since it is made by the same manufacturer. We don't know if there is a way to manually program buttons, however.

Here are the problematic ones:
Panasonic Surround Sound System -- a suitable setup code is no problem, but Panasonic used a variety of sub device codes depending on the model. The remotes can send these signals, but finding which one (without a cable) can be an adventure. However, we do know the subdevice codes for lots of models, just not all of them.

Patriot Box. Without a cable (or just brute force learning from the original remote) it would be necessary to manually enter in EFCs for nearly all functions.

Vizio Sound Bar. Most functions would need manual entry of EFCs. There aren't very many.

Benq. Need a model number, but assume manual entry.

To get more than 5 devices with the RCA, you would need a cable. To access the extra 3 devices, you would tap the Setup key before tapping the device key.

The OneForAll remotes provide 8 or 10 devices. The URC-10820N has a lot of buttons....
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varaonaid



Joined: 18 Dec 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 3:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for such an informative reply. It helped and left me with more questions.

I didn't mean that a remote has to look "sexy" per se but more how usable it is (in my opinion). I like remotes that have a lot of buttons so I can get as many of the original functions on it as possible. Looks like the Sony has the edge here.

Not sure what you mean about EFC's va brute force learning. I thought that in order to create a device upgrade it required learning all the button functions then entering that info into RM then after mapping the functions to buttons, copying the info into IR, configuring macros, and uploading to remote. Also not sure what you mean by "manually program buttons" on the Sony. Just unsure how you mean that and would love a but of clarification.

Part of the reason I'm interested in possibly keeping my low end Harmony remote ($35 new) is because it had the codes already in the system for the Vizio sound bar that I have. All I'd have to do is "learn" them to the Sony which would take about 3 minutes. Similar to JP1 but a different method of going about it.

Agree about the panny sound system. It's always been an issue with its different sub device code problem. I found though that a Panny DVD HTIB code gave me most functions built in to the Sony remote and then I learned on any others that I had to have. We're hoping to upgrade to a different sound sys for Christmas depending on sales so that might be a thing of the past.

I guess I'll check out the Harmony site and see what kind of discrete codes it has for some of my devices to see it that's a viable option. *sigh* still undecided...amazing that it takes so much work to figure out remotes!!
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vickyg2003
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Still undecided which way is best. In order to keep family peace we have two identical remotes in the living room (so both my husband and I can each have one...LOL), then need one in our bedroom and one downstairs. We have a couple of housemates so some sort of macro system is a must (same for DH, needs to be easy to work). The idea of all the remotes being identical is nice too so we're always familiar with the layout of the remote.


That is one of the benefits with going with relatively inexpensive remotes. We have 3 8811's in the family room, so no matter where I sit, I have control of the system.

For the bedroom here we have 2 6011's.

All the other remotes I have in use are JP1.2/3 and I must say that the choice is rather limited. I have a 8820 a 10820 a 10820N and a RCA RCp50B and all of the latest RadioShack 15-133, 134, and 135 remotes, but none of them made it past the bench. I have 41 remotes "in use", and most of them are extended JP1.2 Comcast and Atlases.

I'd really recommend hunting down some backlit OCAP remotes even though they are big and butt-ugly. I don't have the backlit OCAP, as I'm a JP1.2 gal, but that has got to be the best JP1.3 remote around simply because its backlit and easy to operate. However the Atlas remotes are extremely ugly.

Its a toss up between the 8820, 10820 and RCA RCp05b. My preference would be the 10820 simply because the buttons have a better spacing, and the remote has a directional feel, so when you have it in your hand you know if you have it backwards without digging out your reading glasses and looking at the remote, but they are all nice remotes.
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