JP1 Remotes

Plomaris · Joined: 20 Oct 2010 Posts: 38

Just forget it, Rob. I was just wondering why when I learned some of the Comcast cable functions on the 15-133 the EFCs were different from the original codes used for the Comcast remote. Doesn't have anything to do with the upgrade I'm trying to do.

I'll try Vicky's protocol suggestion.
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Tom

mdavej · Expert Joined: 08 Oct 2003 Posts: 4501

I think you're missing the fact that your learns replaced those old functions entirely. If the new CH+ matched the old 0476 CH+, that means your learns didn't work. The fact that they don't match is a good thing in this case. The important thing is that everything shown in Rob's post matches, which it does. The original codes are irrelevant since they were all effectively overwritten (technically they're still there, but learns take precedence).

Anyway, we should be in the home stretch now.

Plomaris · Joined: 20 Oct 2010 Posts: 38

I put in Vicky's protocol and now the remote does work!

However, there are some issues. For many buttons, a single press sends the same command more than once. I think some may even be 4 presses (like OK).

The buttons that do that are:
- Cursor movement (2,4,6,8)
- Enter (5)
- Backspace (last)
- Mute
- Pg Up/Pg Dn (Ch+/CH-)
- Left Mouse button (OK)
- Right Mouse button (info)
- Mouse movement Down/Left (guide)
- Next (Live)
- Close (exit)
- Numlock (PIP_SWAP)

Also, the D button (REC) seems to be working slowly and inconsistently.

Finally, is there a way to "speed up" the mouse movement keys:
- left (left arrow)
- up (up arrow)
- right (right arrow)
- down (down arrow)
- up/left (page up)
- up/right (page down)
- down/left (guide)
- down/right (menu)

Thanks Vicky and Dave for all the help. You have done more than anyone could ask. Any ideas on what I can do to fix the problems?
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Tom

The Robman · Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 9:00 pm Post subject:

Sounds like Vicki needs to increase the leadout time.

As for the REC button, it sounds like you're getting tripped up by the UEI functionality which requires you to hit the REC button twice. Test it again to see if that's the case (ie, first press is ignored, second press works). The way to override this is to re-program the button using an EFC keymove.
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Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

Plomaris · Joined: 20 Oct 2010 Posts: 38

Rob:

I'm glad you guys know what you're talking about, because I don't!

It looks like you're right about the REC button. Hitting it twice appears to work. I may just use a different button instead. Not really that important anyway.

Thanks.
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Tom

The Robman · Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 10:19 pm Post subject:

If you want to stick with the REC button, you just need to re-program it using a keymove. Do you know how to do that?
_________________
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

Plomaris · Joined: 20 Oct 2010 Posts: 38

Rob - I think I do. I just stuck it on another button and now it works fine. Now I just need to figure out the multi-press issue.

Thanks.
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Tom

vickyg2003 · Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 12:58 am Post subject:

vickyg2003 · Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 8:13 am Post subject:

Tom, I corrected my last post and wanted to make sure saw it.
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Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.

Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.

Plomaris · Joined: 20 Oct 2010 Posts: 38

Vicky:

The OEM remote works well, so all my comparisons are against that. It is not sensitive like the 1067. The mouse movements are fast and smooth, which is what I want for the 1067.

I'll try the protocol upgrades when I get home later.

Thanks again for all your work!
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Tom

The Robman · Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 1:45 pm Post subject:

I just took a closer look at the original learns and I see now that the leadout time is dependent on the overall time, which complicates things a little. Vicky, how did you determine what time to enter into PB? I've always had to use trial and error to get the "OFF as total" leadouts right.

It occurs to me also that a too long leadout might also cause the symptoms that Tom is seeing. If the leadout is too long, it's possible that the device might interpret it as multiple button presses rather than a held button.

If you want to test the leadout times, here are two buttons from either end of the spectrum. The INPUT button should have the shortest leadout at 20040 uS and the CH+ should have the longest leadout at 25400 uS.
_________________
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

vickyg2003 · Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 2:08 pm Post subject:

Plomaris · Joined: 20 Oct 2010 Posts: 38

I sure wish I knew what you guys were talking about. I'm glad I have the experts helping me out.

Hopefully, I will learn and be able to actually contribute in the future.
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Tom

vickyg2003 · Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 2:54 pm Post subject:

The Robman · Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 3:03 pm Post subject: