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Lighting Control
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:07 am
by PowerPlus
Has anyone had any experience programming their comcast remote to turn on/off lighting?? I have a recv5000 which converts IR to 232 and talks to my Lighting system, but i have no experience with programming the remote control. I prefer to use my existing comcast remote. I do have a .ccf file to work with. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED! I am reading some of the general info on this site but am unclear to the process of getting the .ccf file to the remote. I will keep reading.

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:25 am
by The Robman
We can probably make an upgrade based on the CCF file. If you downloaded it from somewhere, please post a link. If you created it yourself, please load a copy into the Diagnosis File here in the file section and then post a link to that.
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:46 am
by PowerPlus
Hi Rob
Thanks for the response I have uploaded it to the diags site. I am not sure how to direct you to it. It comes up on a file search of 'centralite'. This is a file given to me from Centralite. I also have the web link of the user guide for the setup, which has a list of commands to use.
http://www.centralite.com/support/IR_Re ... sGuide.pdf. Let me know if this is helpful.
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:56 am
by The Robman
PowerPlus wrote:I have uploaded it to the diags site. I am not sure how to direct you to it.
Just cut & paste the URL for the file, like this...
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=8124
I'll take a look at it and report back.
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 12:09 pm
by PowerPlus
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 12:47 pm
by The Robman
The CCF file contains just over 500 "buttons". They all use the NEC protocol (see note below) with sub-device code 2. The first batch use device code 154, the next uses device code 156, then 158 and finally 160.
Each batch uses OBCs from 0-31, 64-95, 128-159 and 192-223
Note: Only 1 repeat was captured of each signal, so it's not possible to determine whether the signals really use NEC1 or NEC2. Therefore, the safest option is to use NEC1, however if you need the signals to repeat and they don't using NEC1, use NEC2 instead.
Does that give you enough info to proceed?
ps. There was one button in a panel called "Celadon" that uses the NEC2 protocol with device code 123, sub-device code 1, OBC 0, but I'm guessing that this doesn't have anything to do with the lighting.
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 1:03 pm
by PowerPlus
Rob
Thats alot of info that means nothing to me(beginner). Let me just say that this what I am trying to accomplish. I would like to be able to control scene of light from my comcast DVR remote control. I would like to program the AUX button to control my lights. I can see in the celadon rcv-5000 manual I need to communicate commands (ie.^coo1) to the IR receiver from the remote. I really only need 10 commands or so.
1) is this possible
2) from a birds eye view what are the step required to make this happen.
additional info from celedon manual-
http://www.centralite.com/support/IR_Re ... sGuide.pdf
RCV-5000 IR to RS-232 Output Table
Device: Centralite
Infrared Remote Control: Philips PRONTO
Infrared Code Format: NEC - Device IDs (per 128): 9A02, 9C02, 9E02, A002
Infrared Receiver: Celadon RCV-5000 Infrared to RS-232 Receiver
RCV-5000 Data File: centralite4.hex.hex
Data: 19200 Baud, 8, N, 1, ASCII Output
Standard Transmit and Receive Pinout
sorry for the lack of knowledge on the subject....
thanks Rick
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 2:00 pm
by The Robman
PowerPlus wrote:Rob
Thats alot of info that means nothing to me(beginner). Let me just say that this what I am trying to accomplish. I would like to be able to control scene of light from my comcast DVR remote control. I would like to program the AUX button to control my lights. I can see in the celadon rcv-5000 manual I need to communicate commands (ie.^coo1) to the IR receiver from the remote. I really only need 10 commands or so.
The problem is, none of the functions in the CCF or the PDF have useful labels (like "cool"), they all just have numbers. If you can find out what the code is for "cool" and the other functions that you need, I can create an upgrade for you.
PowerPlus wrote:Infrared Remote Control: Philips PRONTO
Infrared Code Format: NEC - Device IDs (per 128): 9A02, 9C02, 9E02, A002
Those 4 codes (9A02, 9C02, 9E02, A002) correspond to the 4 device codes that I mentioned. Eg, hex code 9A is 154 in decimal.
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 2:29 pm
by PowerPlus
I think I understand lets see....
Best case scenario is that I just get the remote to communicate a code for a scene(maybe 11) then I can program the scene at the lighting system to be cool or party or popcorn.... If I get programmed for a range of sceenes(11-19) I will just block them out(not use them) except for scenes I want controlled by the remote.
example the remote is programmed to control lights on AUX. When button one is pressed it activates scene 11(^C01). when button 2 is pressed it activates scene 12(^C012).
Ideally I would like the following buttons to have these commands.
1 - ^C011 activates sceene 11
2 - ^C012 activates sceene 12
3 - ^C013
4 - ^C014
5 - ^C015
6 - ^C016
7 - ^C017
8 - ^C018
9 - ^C019
0 - ^A030 activates load #30(if needed for a specific item)
I can make my scenes 11-19 be what I need them to be.
Does this make sense to you?
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 3:07 pm
by PowerPlus
Rob,
I am ordering the download cable does the usb cable work just as good as the serial??
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 4:11 pm
by The Robman
I have converted the PDF into a spreadsheet here:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=8127
The "pdf" tab of this spreadsheet shows the mapping between the CentraLite functions and the JP1 data (ie, device code, sub-device code and OBC).
If you pick functions from within a JP1 device code, you can create a simple upgrade using the NEC1 protocol. If you need to include functions from more than 1 device code, you will need to use the combo protocol, which is a bit more complicated.
You selected C011 thru C019 and A030, which all come from device code 154, so that keeps things simple. I have created an upgrade that is formatted to support those functions here:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=8128
You didn't say which Comcast remote you are using, so I just selected the first one that's available in KM, therefore you should change it to the remote that you actually have. You can edit this upgrade file using either KM or RM, it makes no difference.
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 4:13 pm
by The Robman
PowerPlus wrote:Rob,
I am ordering the download cable does the usb cable work just as good as the serial??
I had no idea that you didn't even have a cable (might have been a good idea to mention that as you are in the JP1 forum), so no wonder my previous answers didn't make any sense to you.
Before I can advise you what cable is best for you, I would need to know exactly which remote you have.
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:42 pm
by PowerPlus
I did not have a cable yet because I wanted to be assured that I could do this. It seems to make sense. I viewed the file you made and reviewed it. It is starting to make more sense. Keep in mind I am doing this for the first time. There are a lot of little things to know that are in between the lines.
So anyway My remote is either a 1067a or B but i cannot see a difference. It is the dvr remote with red ok button and pip functions. The pins on the back are 2 rows of 3 and it says 1003.
so I am not sure which cable I need to order.
Thanks again for the patience
Rick
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:50 pm
by 3FG
A Comcast remote with a red OK/Select button is the 1067BX3 or 1168 (which differs only cosmetically). It's a JP1.3 remote.
You can make doubly sure by blinking back the signature.
1) Press Setup until 2 blinks
2) Enter 983
3) Press the 1 button, and count the number of blinks you see. That is the first digit of the signature. No blink means zero.
4) Press 2 and count the blinks
5) Press 3 and count the blinks
6) Press 4 and count the blinks
I expect the signature to be 3039.
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:11 pm
by PowerPlus
You are correct. That is the signature. so Which is better the serial or the usb cable?