JP1 Remotes

[drussell]

Hello all... Finally had to register to actually post a question after years of having everything just work on the first try! Thanks to everyone for the excellent resource! (Have made my own JP1 and JP1.x cables and easily done even quite advanced programming on many different remotes, etc.)

Just got a couple Shaw Direct (Starchoice) Satellite PVRs (Motorola DSR-530) w/ RF-capable UEI remotes. Disassembly found no header, but clearly labelled P1-P6 pads with 1 going to power and 3 to GND (YAY!!) made it pretty easy to solder up some wires w/pins.

It is a new signature though, and I've never created an .RDF before...

Signature is 30043004
Memory address is $0600
Memory size is $0880 (2176)

The model number on the battery compartment sticker on this unit is URC-2053BA0-R and the board says "URC-2050BA0-R/URC-2051BA0-R REV:02 Apr.27.2006" and "MOTOROLA IRC551/URC551 REMOTE 2006". They are available from Starchoice in IR-only and IR/UHF versions.

A download with IR from a freshly factory reset unit:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=7107

The manual for this remote (Starchoice calls it a URC-551) can be found at:
http://www.starchoice.com/english/store/download/remote_551_manual.pdf

Will take a pic for an RM map shortly....

I quickly edited the .RDF for an atlas 30003000, changing the memory size down, etc. and can read the current code settings from within IR, but don't know what else to change and how to proceed. I can't seem to create any macros with 995 other than master power, but perhaps I just haven't messed with it enough yet... It does not support learning or seem to take keymoves. It also uses 5-digit codes and I don't know how to adjust for that. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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<Doug>

[The Robman]

Here's a color pic from the company web site:



and here's the black and white pic from the user manual:


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Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

[drussell]

Heh.... Thanks... saves me finding some good pics

It is quite easy for the experienced builder to add a JP1.x interface to these remotes... Vdd and GND can go directly to nice, solid connections at the capacitor and the GND plane, then it's just a matter of soldering the remaining three necessary wires for RESET and Rx/Tx to the provided pads. I used three separate 2-wire connectors with pins in them instead of sockets as I often find that easier to tuck away inside some remotes (although there is plenty of room "under" the board to tuck the connector(s) away in this model), even enough room to likely stow a standard 6-pin header under the board or mount one nicely in a recessed cutout at the bottom/lower edge by the pads, making it unnecessary to pry open the remote each time for programming as there is quite a space "below" the board for a connector and the associated cutout... I leave the mounting decision up to the individual hobbyist modifying their remote, though.


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<Doug>

[The Robman]

It would still be great if you could take a color pic of the front of the remote, as that would be better for RM than the B&W pic that I posted.

Could you also post a pic of the PCB (without the button sheet) so we can see where the wires go. And another pic of the backside of the remote, with the battery cover removed, so we can see where the 6-pin might go.

Thanks.
_________________
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

[drussell]

I planned on putting a few more pics but that was the only one that was fairly clear... I had to use a scanner instead to get better pics.

The unit itself, for RM:


You could run each wire to the labelled pads as they are correctly numbered for a JP1.x connector, but they are very small and fragile, so I would recommend putting the power directly to the through-hole capacitor lead that comes through the board from the other side, and run ground to the solid ground point at the bottom. The pads require scraping slightly to expose the copper to solder to. This is certainly not a good one for a novice to tackle first try.

The board w/ wires soldered to the pads (Sorry, I've already hot glued over mine, although it is still reasonably clear.) When/if I get my hands on another 551 one I'll take some pics of it unmodified first:


There is no extra room under the battery cover (it latches into both the top and bottom hole), unfortunately so the connector must go elsewhere:


There is, however, a cavity the height of the AA batteries available below the board at the bottom of the remote. (Around the three more closely spaced standoffs) This area is where I tuck my wires after wrapping them around underneath the bottom edge of the board to close up the remote after programming:


If I get ahold of another one to modify I will do it with an externally accessible connector and take pictures of the various steps involved. I would probably use a ribbon cable and small IDC, notch the very bottom edge of the remote and then hot glue the IDC in place.


It could also be done straight out the bottom though the sticker area, below the battery compartment, but you'd have to cut/file a rectangular hole instead of a notch, although then you don't have to deal with the capacitor on the bottom of the board (twisting it up 90 degrees might require extending one of the leads):


Hopefully that gives everyone a reasonable idea of how it can work. As always, it's rather difficult to describe these things to someone who doesn't actually have it in front of them.
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<Doug>

[The Robman]

Wouldn't it be possible to expand the whole where the lower portion of the battery door goes in to make it big enough for a 6-pin?
_________________
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

[drussell]

Perhaps... That was my first thought, actually, but I didn't think it would quite fit the height of an IDC there because of the way the battery cover snaps in. As I look at it again now, though I think it might just fit. If I get my hands on another one I will tinker and find a nice pretty way to do it. Don't know if I want to bother changing mine now, though... There are certainly several different options depending on the builder's preference, how often they are likely to reprogram and if they care if the connector is hidden or not.
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<Doug>

[drussell]

Looks like we've managed to create a working .RDF, .JPG and .MAP file for these URC-2050 series remotes. They appear to have no keymove support, but otherwise all functions seem to work as expected.

The URC-2050.zip file containing the necessary files can be found at:

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=7163
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<Doug>