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rsbrux
Joined: 25 Dec 2015 Posts: 81
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Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 3:44 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, this could be an alternative way to get RF out of a non-RF-capable successor remote, but I would still be stuck with finding a way to block the IR. Since this method presumably detects the current draw of the IR diodes, I couldn't just disconnect them. Did you have an alternative remote in mind that would be more readily serviceable and takes AAA batteries? |
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Barf Expert
Joined: 24 Oct 2008 Posts: 1415 Location: Munich, Germany |
Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2019 2:31 am Post subject: |
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MaskedMan wrote: | On URC made remotes when the IR goes out, so does the RF. Many of water-proof mxw920 have problem with IR going bad, rf won't work either. It tells you the IR is faulty. |
So how about replacing the IR LED(s) with a "null-IR diode", like 1N4148 for example. Possibly two in series, since the IR LEDs has a somewhat higher forward voltage drop. Or possibly just a resistor will do. Worth a try.
The Robman wrote: | There is an IR repeater that works by replacing one of the batteries in the remote. |
The drawback is that it severely impacts the battery performance. Ca only be used with AA or AAA batteries.
BTW, I once located the patent for the "flying saucer" type of IR -> RF translator. Turned out that it was absolutely void of any useful information on how the IR was detected. How could that patent pass? |
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The Robman Site Owner
Joined: 01 Aug 2003 Posts: 21238 Location: Chicago, IL |
Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2019 10:11 am Post subject: |
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rsbrux wrote: |
Thanks, this could be an alternative way to get RF out of a non-RF-capable successor remote, but I would still be stuck with finding a way to block the IR. Since this method presumably detects the current draw of the IR diodes, I couldn't just disconnect them. Did you have an alternative remote in mind that would be more readily serviceable and takes AAA batteries? |
I would assume that is true. _________________ Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help! |
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rsbrux
Joined: 25 Dec 2015 Posts: 81
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 11:38 am Post subject: Success |
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I finally took the plunge and disassembled my only remaining working unit, my original XSight Touch (URC8603). In doing so I found out why I didn't get an answer to the question about which side of the shell the tabs are on: the answer is, "it depends". The "front" (where the emitters are) 60% of the shell has the tabs on the top (keyboard and display) side, whereas the "rear" (where the learning receiver is) 40% has them on the underside (the side with the battery compartment). Since I haven't found detailed disassembly instructions anywhere, I would be happy to provide them in a wiki article here, if "the powers that be" will grant me the authority
To "cut to the chase", instead of adopting one of the many interesting ideas submitted here, I simply enclosed the two emitter diodes in heat-shrink tubing. This was simpler than replacing them with (some combination of) non-emitting diodes, and seems to work quite well. It is also easily reversible. I am now the proud owner of an RF-only XSight Touch! |
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The Robman Site Owner
Joined: 01 Aug 2003 Posts: 21238 Location: Chicago, IL |
Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 2:22 pm Post subject: |
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I have created a Wiki account for you, you should get an email at the account that you use for JP1. Do you have prior experience editing a Wiki page? _________________ Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help! |
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rsbrux
Joined: 25 Dec 2015 Posts: 81
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Posted: Sat Jul 13, 2019 5:09 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the wiki login. I'm no crack, but I do have some experience with wiki pages. I'll try not to mess it up |
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rsbrux
Joined: 25 Dec 2015 Posts: 81
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