The chip partner FTDI cable

[davecs]

Just wanted to report back on the Arduino Nano option:
a $5 solution working perfectly. Design above is correct.
Didn't need to pull-up SDA/SCL for the URC-9910.
I just Super glued 6 Dupont female cables together, soldered to the Arduino + shrink wrap.
The cheapo AliExpress 328p works a charm; just need to set it to "Atmega 328p (Old bootloader)"




I can finally get rid of my parallel cable =)

Thanks for your help on this.

I used to have one of those convertor things that you use between an FTDI cable and an old JP1, but I've either mislaid it, or it ended up in the vacuum cleaner.

I do have a couple of old JP1 remotes, not been able to play with them. And during a recent clear-out I turned up a spare 3x2 dupont connector. I've been put off trying to make the Arduino interface because I wasn't sure how it was put together, and there was also some complex programming involved which I'm not sure if it works under Linux.

Having seen your solution, I have to ask: Is that it? Do I have to upload any scripts to the Arduino board? Or do I just connect stuff together as per your illustration and it works directly from RMIR?

[ylaviolette]

If you are used to DIY solutions this one is quite simple :
No "complex programming" involved.
Order board as detailed earlier in thread.
Install Arduino IDE.
Upload ino file to board as detailed above.
Make connections as detailed in my design.
Configure as jp1x in RMIR
Bingo.

[davecs]

OK, I've done a bit of online research and found that it's a simple matter to upload from Linux. My only other question is whether, once uploaded, the ino file stays put when the usb power is removed, or you have to upload it every time you connect it.

I think that these posts about connecting with an Arduino should be separated into a new thread. Some of the older threads on the subject are actually quite off-putting, but these posts are clear and simple.

EDIT: OK I've ordered a Nano V3.0 ATmega328P from Ebay for £4.65, and a bunch of Dupont-ended wires on the 3 for $6 from Ali Express. I have a soldering iron, and I've installed the Arduino package for Linux. So, the adventure starts when it all arrives.

Thanks to ylaviolette for the illustration that made it all clear!

[mathdon]

It stays loaded.

[davecs]

It stays loaded.

Great. I can stop writing (in my head) the udev routine to re-load the ino file on plug-in!

EDIT: In anticipation of the Arduino and bits arriving, I thought I'd strip my 8910 which had stopped working. Turns out that there is a coil inside it, which I'd have thought was for telephone/audio updates they used to have in the early days. The coil had broken loose, and was floating. I relocated it and taped it down with nano tape, put a few layers of nano tape inside the case facing it to ensure it couldn't break free again, put it back together again, tested every button, and it appears to be working! Obviously there was more to the coil than just telephone updates. Looking forward to connecting it up again!

[mathdon]

I have a soldering iron, and I've installed the Arduino package for Linux.

What will need soldering? If you have bought an Arduino with pins and Dupont cables that are F to F then you shouldn't need to do any soldering.

[davecs]

I have a soldering iron, and I've installed the Arduino package for Linux.

What will need soldering? If you have bought an Arduino with pins and Dupont cables that are F to F then you shouldn't need to do any soldering.

The board I ordered is unsoldered.

[davecs]

An epilogue re my Arduino order. Bad news which became good news (but other bad news at the end)!

I ordered it on 21 July and contacted the seller when it hadn't turned up by 27th. I reported it as not received on 29th and the seller sent a replacement. What I didn't know until today was that he gifted me a second Arduino Nano for the inconvenience. Very nice touch.

I was unaware from pictures I'd seen just how small they were. I used Female to Male dupont-ended wires and removed the covers from the male end, pushing heat-shrink over the wire. Possibly due to my unsteady soldering, or the heat generated, I think I ruined one. Or possibly just bad joints, but anyway, it didn't work properly.

What I did with the second one was to break off 4 pins from the strip of pins that are provided to solder into the board, 2 together and 2 singles. I was able to use the other pins to balance the board while I soldered the four, then used female to female dupont wires. If I ever buy another Arduino it will be with the pins soldered on. You live and learn!

The little 2x3 bank of connectors held the 6 individual dupont female connectors in place while the superglue set. And that one works!!

Sadly, I think my URC-8910 is faulty as it will not communicate with RMIR via the Arduino, and I'm trying to remember if that's why I gave up on it in the first place and bought the 7980 and later the 6440. All the button presses respond in the right way. I will be asking about that in a new thread.

The two URC-7560/2s I have (same remote different colour) do up- and download correctly. I do have an issue about installing the extender which I will raise in a new thread.

[ylaviolette]

I spent hours trying to figure out why my new PC would not accept RMIR connections to my remotes via the JP1 cable I detailed above;
It was working with a number of other PC's so I went through all possible troubleshooting:

- Checked all contacts for continuity
- Redid the soldering
- Changed RMIR versions
- CH340 driver versions (2014,2019,2023)
- Java versions
- USB cables
- COM ports
- Port speed
- etc. etc. etc.

As I was about to give up, I've enabled the following and.... Bingo.



It was not needed on other PC's with the exact same configuration.
I don't think I saw any mention of this elsewhere so hopefully this will help avoid wasting a number of hours troubleshooting.

cheers.

[The Robman]

You don't mention how to get to that menu screen that you posted.

[ylaviolette]

Good point:

Device manager - Ports COM & LPT - CH340 - Port Settings - advanced.

[The Robman]

Ah, I got it:
1. Device Manager
2. Ports (COMP & LPT)
3. Right click on the relevant entry
4. Select Properties
5. On the pop-up screen, select the Port Settings tab
6. Click on the Advanced button

I don't know if it's because I don't have a JP1 cable plugged in right now, but the version of that screen that I get stops at the COM port selection, I don't have the 3 check boxes below it.

[mathdon]

Like Rob, the version of that screen that I get stops at the COM port selection, I don't have the 3 check boxes below it. That is with an Arduino with a CH340 chip plugged in, though it is configured as an AIRWidget not as a JP! EEPROM cable. I can't believe that makes any difference, so I think those options must be specific to your new PC. Do they appear on your other PCs that don't need this setting? What PC is your new one? Are you aware of anything unusual about it? I have looked up about the Serial Port Enumerator but everything I find says that it is needed to identify a legacy serial mouse, which makes little sense in your case.

[The Robman]

Could it be Windows 10 vs. 11? I'm using Win10.

[mathdon]

Could it be Windows 10 vs. 11? I'm using Win10.

So am I, so yes, it could be.