JP1 Remotes

Thanks. I figured the * buttons were off limits. Even though my TV and Streamer use the same device upgrade (It's a Fire Edition TV with Fire TV streaming built in), I had to make 2 versions using the different button maps for the TV and Streamer.

However, my remote doesn't shoot anything when I press Power, and the LED ring does not light. If I assign a macro to Power, it works. I'm going to try a full reset then reload.

mdavej wrote:However, my remote doesn't shoot anything when I press Power, and the LED ring does not light.

With your setup in my Streamer remote, when I press Power the LED ring lights and the signal is sent. As I said before, though, the signal has a fixed 3 dittos even if you keep holding the button and the LED lights only for as long as the signal is sent. I wonder if there could be a setting that controls the duration of the Power signal and that somehow it is set to zero on your remote? Although that seems possible, I would have expected that loading your setup would import any such setting so this difference in behaviour is at present a total mystery to me.

I am based in Australia, so the 7935 is not available locally.

I have ordered 3 from eBay and they should arrive in a week or so.


Can I get any of the 4 macro keys at the bottom of the remote to 'learn' a IR code? (or do they just do macros)

Can I program the macro keys with RMIR and the correct cable?

I have a USB cable for the 3x RCRP05B remotes that I got years ago.
I cannot get the cable to work reliably on Win10. It has worked about 2/60 attempts.

What is the best USB cable for the 7935 (with Win10)?

There is no learning capability (correction, there is learning) in the 7935, the four macro keys at the bottom are purely for macros. With RMIR you can put macros on any key, not just those four, but those four are special in that they support real-time macros as well as ordinary ones. Real-time macros record the duration for which keys are held, and the interval between them, as well as the actual keypresses themselves. You don't need RMIR to create real-time macros, but you do to create ordinary macros.

Others will have to answer your question about a cable. Mine is ten years old, works fine, and I have no experience of newer ones.

kortina wrote:What is the best USB cable for the 7935 (with Win10)?

We've had good luck with the one at the bottom of this post (pick the Independent option), and looks like they ship free to Oz.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... 201#120201

You can probably transplant your 2x3 connector from your bad cable to the new one.

As for learning, I'd use the RCAs for that then make upgrades you can load into your new remote. New cable should work fine for both in Win 10.

mathdon wrote:There is no learning capability in the 7935, the four macro keys at the bottom are purely for macros. With RMIR you can put macros on any key, not just those four, but those four are special in that they support real-time macros as well as ordinary ones. Real-time macros record the duration for which keys are held, and the interval between them, as well as the actual keypresses themselves. You don't need RMIR to create real-time macros, but you do to create ordinary macros.

Others will have to answer your question about a cable. Mine is ten years old, works fine, and I have no experience of newer ones.

There's learning feature on the remote itself :

1. Hold down TV Power key and Mute until the red LED blinks twice
Then teach as usual with remotes head to head and after all commands are taught, press Tv Power for 4 blinks to save.

MaskedMan wrote:There's learning feature on the remote itself

Ooh, I had forgotten that . Many apologies.

My new (cheap) programming cable arrived today and it works well with the drivers (CDM20828_Setup.exe)

I can now read and write to the remote!

My Family Room Setup is:
TV (Samsung)
NVIDIA Shield (HDMI1)
Polk Sound Bar (Optical to TV)

I never turn off the 'Streamer" (NVIDIA Shield) and would like to make the Red Power button turn the Audio device ON/OFF

Any ideas how to do this?

I can upload my current config if it helps

kortina wrote:My new (cheap) programming cable arrived today and it works well with the drivers (CDM20828_Setup.exe)

I can now read and write to the remote!

My Family Room Setup is:
TV (Samsung)
NVIDIA Shield (HDMI1)
Polk Sound Bar (Optical to TV)

I never turn off the 'Streamer" (NVIDIA Shield) and would like to make the Red Power button turn the Audio device ON/OFF

Any ideas how to do this?

I can upload my current config if it helps

you probably figured this out in the months since you posted this, but if anyone else comes across this thread, this is easy to do with the built-in IR learning function offered by the remote.

Hi,

I've played quite a lot with RMIR and this remote, it's very nice to push the customisation even further

However there are some things that I don't understand, maybe someone can help me ?
1. I've a lot of signals in the Learning tab, but they are all set to "Streamer" for "Device Button", and if I change that (so the LED matches the color I want), the command doesn't work anymore, why ?
2. I like the option when I press input it switches the directions button to the TV, but I'd like to apply custom learned code to thoses directions, how ? I've tried to set a learned code with "Device Button" set to "TV" but again, it doesn't work at all...
3. I'm also interested by the CEC mode, I've managed to enable it, but how can I set learned code to thoses ? I've got an AVR, the IR CEC codes are for the Projector, the TV box or for the AVR ?

Thanks !

The answer to your question 1 is that there is no means of device selection on this remote. Almost all buttons are assigned to Streamer and cannot be changed. So if you assign a learned signal to a different device, there is no way of generating the keypress that would send that signal. This may also answer your other questions, by saying that what you want cannot be achieved, but I'm not sure about that as I don't fully understand what you are trying to do. Although this is an interesting remote and is unique in some ways, it is unfortunately also a remote with very limited capabilities.

I think #3 is your answer to #2. All "CEC Mode" does is change the arrow buttons from TV mode to STB or Audio mode (I forget which), so if you learned your new arrow codes in TV mode, when you enabled CEC you disabled those learns.

As Graham said, this remote lacks the traditional device buttons and instead it tries to guess which mode you need for various groups of buttons. The color of the LEDs tell you which mode it decided you need, so rather than trying to change the colors, instead let the colors guide you as to which mode you should learn functions to in order for them to be usable.

Thanks for your answers, after some digging I finally managed to set up my remote exactly like I wanted.

Regarding my previous questions, here's some info :
1. I confirm that, like you said, all learned codes must be set to "Streamer" in order to work. If not there are just ignored.
2. In order to apply custom codes to the arrows keys associated to the TV device (after you press the input key), you can build a device upgrade with thoses keys set, and associate this device upgrade to the TV, it works ! The input button inside the upgrade must be set to something in order to allow the switch mode.
3. I did not understand that part, but I managed to set the play/next/previous keys to my Android TV box (Nvidia Shield) using a Flirc.

Thanks a lot for this software and all the guides, it's very nice to be able to fully customize my remote

FYI, I used a cable from this vendor on eBay. Worked natively on Windows 10.

noob question: the 6 pin connector on my remote has a notch on the side, https://i.imgur.com/T8KuyWZ.jpg

unlike on wiki, which is at the bottom.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.p ... 1_pins.jpg

so which way is top on mine? thanks

In cases like this, I try both ways and mark the one that works with a silver sharpie.