New Radio Shack remote: 15-100

Kevin Timmerman · Post by **Kevin Timmerman** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:52 am

The Robman wrote:The problem is that the holes don't line up with any hole in the casing, and even if you were to cut a hole, the pins would block the batteries

Maybe these ultra low profile socket pins (315...003 series, Digikey # ED7964) will fit.

Make a plug with mating pins (Digikey # ED7764). Ordinary .025" pin headers will *NOT* fit - they are too big.

xnappo · Post by **xnappo** » Wed Feb 13, 2008 9:25 am

Hmm, this remote is so close to being the rallying point of JP1.x. If they only:

- Made it JP1-able out of the box (obviously)
- Made it in 'classic' 1994 rubberized plastic (or at least the back)
- Added one more macro button

Then I think it would be the next-gen JP1 remote of choice. I have to believe by now that this group's recommendations would actually sell units. Do we know if anyone from UEI or RS pays attention to these forums?

xnappo

heunjin · Post by **heunjin** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 5:03 am

I tried a different way to modify the 15-100 with a JP connector. It's kind of neat, but may it not be so practical for most people to try. It involves cutting and whittling plastic. I thought it would be fun to share anyways ... If anyone is interested, I'll try to do a real write up. Maybe when I do my second remote.

Basically, I cut out the part of the back cover that is over the JP1 holes (as suggested in this thread) , soldered in premounted pins ( two 3x1 sections) , used 4 shorter batteries (1.5v LR1s), and "McGyver"ed in something to bridge across the top of the batteries:

Nothing really special about soldering in the premounted pins. As mentioned by others, you can get them from Digikey.

The trick is fitting the batteries. LR1 batteries (sometimes called type "N")are pretty similar to AAA batteries (1.5 V, 1000 mAhrs), just shorter. They are little larger in diameter than AAA ones (12 mm vs 10.5mm). As is, they will very tightly squeeze into the battery compartment. To make them fit easily, I whittled and filed away the plastic from the sides of the battery compartment.

To bridge across the top of the batteries and complete the circuit, I could have just soldered in a wire, and called it a day. Since I was goofing around, I actually cut out the bridging piece of plastic with the metal contacts that's embedded in the back cover. (It's the part that the top of the AAA batteries would normally touch.) I whittled the sides of the cut-out to fit into the battery compartment. To keep the bridging piece in place, I braced the piece against the two overhanging plastic guides that are just below the JP1 connector.

The remote powers up just fine. I'll try a Jp1.3 cable (Tommy Tyler built)on it sometime next week.

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 3:51 pm

Just saw the 15-100 is on sale this week for $20.

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 4:57 pm

Here are 'My System' and Language settings you can paste into the top of the [Settings] section of the RDF.

Code: Select all

My System Channel Device  =$01D.7.8.0.0 DeviceButtons
My System Volume Device   =$01E.7.8.1.0 DeviceButtons
My System Transport Device=$01F.7.8.2.0 DeviceButtons
My System Menu Nav Device =$020.7.8.0.0 DeviceButtons
Language=$022.0.1.0.0 (English;Spanish)

EDIT: HERE's the RDF/Map/Image with the above changes already made.

heunjin · Post by **heunjin** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 6:36 pm

I tried mdavej's RDF edit. It works very nicely. Nice to have the remote in English now (Seeing "Mi Sistema" and "Hojeando" was kind of funny, but got old fast).

Forgive my ignorance, but is there a way to use the "My System" button for something else than multidevice- punch throughs? I tried programming a macro on this key w/ IR, but it seems to get ignored. Same story with the "Scan" button. Kind of like the pre-protocol days with the 15-1994 and the Fav and Sleep buttons...

tzoom84 · Post by **tzoom84** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:27 pm

Just got this remote today. Absolutely love it. I hardly have the need to crack the case open since there's plenty of learning memory and built in codes.

But ....

As some of you owners probably know, the left-arrow and exit buttons for the 15-100 are un-learnable. These two are built into the remote as 'exit' functions while using the built-in menu.

I was curious that, since these are functions internal to the remote, can they be reprogrammed through JP1 programming (KM or RM)? Or are they strictly fixed and untouchable?

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:43 pm

tzoom84 wrote:As some of you owners probably know, the left-arrow and exit buttons for the 15-100 are un-learnable. These two are built into the remote as 'exit' functions while using the built-in menu.

I was curious that, since these are functions internal to the remote, can they be reprogrammed through JP1 programming (KM or RM)? Or are they strictly fixed and untouchable?

Both can easily be programmed in IR, KM and RM. You can even move learned functions to them in IR.

Doppleganger · Post by **Doppleganger** » Sat Aug 21, 2010 9:02 pm

Just picked up one of these from the Radio Shack in Newark NY for $6.97!

Now to hack the F out of it.

I may do some small panel mount connector on the bottom of this, i'll think of something.

Looks very comparable to the URC8910's i have.

Post by **The Robman** » Sat Aug 21, 2010 10:08 pm

It has a lot more potential than the 8910, but getting it ready for JP1 is a bit of a pain. Good luck with it.

Thomas · Post by **Thomas** » Tue Aug 24, 2010 9:05 am

As I was very attracted to the LCD display, I bought two RS15-100s - first one I wired up with ribbon cable, which necessitated a lot of carving of the plastic underside of the battery compartment. Second one, I used very fine wire-wrap wires that fit in the available clearance (but a PITA to solder).

I would definitely recommend that you try this - Tommy Tyler had some instructions on how to open the case and wire it, he used alternate contact points to avoid the battery issue completely.

Tom C

Post by **The Robman** » Tue Aug 24, 2010 9:24 am

Tom, which design did you use for the 6-pin itself? Or did you go with one of the "adapter" approaches?

Thomas · Post by **Thomas** » Wed Aug 25, 2010 4:38 am

Rob,
I'm not sure what you are asking - I just soldered the wires to the pads on the circuit board, created a path to lead them out to the battery compartment, soldered on a 6-pin header and added a piece of heat shrink tubing for protection. No adapters. Tommy Tyler's instructions are quite detailed:

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=5127

He was offering an adapter kit and might still have a few available.....

Post by **The Robman** » Wed Aug 25, 2010 6:47 am

So you just have a 6-pin on a cable in the battery compartment? I do recall that design now. There were several other designs floating around that involved different ways of getting a connection.

sparky28 · Post by **sparky28** » Fri Dec 03, 2010 2:40 pm

The 15-100 is now being clearanced at $2.97. A few other JP1 compatibles are available at $0.97. Good luck to all in your search.