OARC05G

[JD4x4]

split from:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12203

My remote is a OARC05G and it has a silkscreen outline & label that says "JP1" (no .x) and solder pads on the backside of the board. So naturally I drilled the board & soldered in a jumper. But, neither jp1xtest or ir will recognize it. I ran comtest while also running jp1xtest and it seems to only return one <00> byte. Could this be a JP1.1 device? It's new enough to be shown on the Oneforall site so if it isn't JP1.1 then maybe comm programming is simply disabled? I haven't reopened it to check my solder joints, but will do and can take a few pics if anyone would like.

[3FG]

The OARC05G may respond to the 983 command which will blink back the signature of the remote.

Use these instructions (at the bottom of the first post).

Maybe we'll recognize the signature--it would be very convenient if it turns out to be 3029.

Are you pretty sure that you have pin 1 identified on both the PCB and on your interface cable? Putting the cable in backwards will keep it from working correctly.

[MaskedMan]

I sent Tommy Tyler a OARC05G back Feburary, his conclusion was it wan't jp1-able.

[JD4x4]

No response to the 9-8-3.. two blinks after 983 is entered, then nothing.

It would be a shame if it turns out to not be JP1-able. I like the layout & was hoping to hot-rod something that might help my 84 y.o. father-in-law deal with our FiOS, his VCR, and using the TV with 3 of 8 inputs.

I ordered two of these partially because the demo video on the OneforAll site showed a JP header with pins (while they were showing how to put the batteries in). But, they were only about $8 + $5 shipping at Buy.com, so it's still a nice unit since the 05G has learning.

[vickyg2003]

I like the layout & was hoping to hot-rod something that might help my 84 y.o. father-in-law deal with our FiOS, his VCR, and using the TV with 3 of 8 inputs.

That comfort series looks pretty nice. Too bad it seems to not be a jp1 remote. For your FIL you might want to check out the Comcast remote. They are JP1.2 or JP1.3 remotes with a simple layout. These remotes really want to be cable remotes, but if an extender is installed, you can get these remotes to be a great universal remote.

Comcast 3 device

I have been using the comcast remotes for universal remotes for the last 3 years. Its a nice remote for simple applications once you've put in an extender.

[JD4x4]

I'm defective.
I just tried the 9-8-3 again on my OARC05G, and it blinks back 31971. I don't know what I'm doing just yet. That's my excuse & I'm sticking with it.

I assume that the blink-backs are valid until you get to a "place digit" (6 in this case) where the led stays on solid rather than blinks back.

[binky123]

Signature digits on the recent remotes are significant up to 4 places. So if your blink back is correct, your signature is 31973197. For reference, the RCA RCRP05B remote has a signature of 31793179.

You'll probably have to trace wires to see if any of the JP1 pins go to the S3F80 chip on the remote.

[JD4x4]

...
You'll probably have to trace wires to see if any of the JP1 pins go to the S3F80 chip on the remote.

Thanks. A ray of hope. I'll crack it open again first chance I get.
..Have wire-wrap wire, ..will solder.

[Pichet]

Any progress? I bought three of those as it's all the JP1-compatible stuff i could locate in my local stores:



The bill is refering to "RCA 5N1 Remote" (151-8212p) but the only way to find something RCA related about this product is by opening the remote control in order to look inside because there's no clue on its package.

The circuit board is marked as follows:

"Audiovox Accessories Corporation"...

There is an unpopulated cavity which is accessible via the battery compartment, it's labelled "JP1" with no extension and it has numbers around: "2, 4, 6" on top then "1, 3, 5" on the line below... A connector for the communications port (whichever version it is) can only be installed by drilling holes through the solder pads.

The rubber keyboard has a cavity to provide clearance for the future soldered lead tips, on the components side facing that keyboard...

In absence of metalized holes the repeated connection of a plug could easily risk to lift the copper traces going there so the terminal bloc would need to be glued very tightly, i believe.

Blink-back signature is "3197" and there's a reference to it on a sticker glued to the battery cover which reads: "R31971", to be exact.

A recent package dated 2010 (Feb.) mentions the use of two "AAA" cells. This is an error, those are "AA" size batteries, actually. That newer package also refers to the One for All COARC05G "Learning Remote", i bet the leading "C" might happen to stand for "Custom", as in customized for TheSource-dot-Ca (previously known to electronic hobbyists as Radio-Shack many years ago)...

Some old packages are just marked "OARC05G" instead.

[Pichet]

Oh and the exterior looks exactly the same as what's being shown over there:

http://www.oneforall.com/us_US/product/148/oarc05g

...

[The Robman]

I don't see any EEPROMs on the PCB, plus as this is a new remote, I feel pretty confident that it's a JP1.3 remote.

Instead of drilling holes through the pads, which as you say is very risky, you could solder fine wires to the pads and then solder a 6-pin to the other end of the wires. You could then use hot glue to position the 6-pin in the opening provided.

The tricky part would be getting the wires to the other side without interfering with any of the buttons. Maybe you could feed them through the hole in the lower right corner of the center dial thing.

[Pichet]

Hi RobMan!

Besides "Audiovox Accessories Corporation" it reads:

CDRC44iUS3F80K-Q001(v1.1)
2009-05-08

I'm ready to bet you'll recognize the "S3F80" string!



The circuit board hole located below the 4-arrows dial at the lower-right corner hosts a position key from the rubber keyboard, its function is to restrain movements since that's an area featured with metal domes!... I'm afraid there's just no vertical room at all between the six solder pads and that hole anyway, which means i would need to use very thin wires as a result.

Drilling holes may very well be the only practical option, there's plenty of space between the upper half part of the back cover and the circuit board but, there again, the only practical option would be to use the connector compartment, not to mention those six thin wires would have to be long (5 to 6 inches maybe) in order to allow safe separation of the circuit board from the back cover.

Too bad, the connector block will need to sit tight on the circuit board with no gaps between the two, plus strong glue to prevent movements! The connector compartment is only 5/8" deep and the walls are real close so it leaves no room for errors... Perhaps six separate plugs installed one at a time might help to put less strain on each of the six pins. In any case, one ought to keep in mind that NO pin can be allowed to move at all to begin with - period! I wonder if a pair of sound connectors (3 pins each) would not prove to be suitable under the circumstances...

[The Robman]

The S3F8 confirms that it's JP1.3.

Another option for routing the wires would be to the left and/or right above the S03 and S05 buttons and below the battery terminals.

Yet another option would be to trace the 6 pads back to other spots on the board where soldering would be easy and running the wires would be easier.

Any chance of a pic of the other side of the PCB and the lower half of the casing?

[Pichet]

I'll explore ways to get some better photographic results, this is all i could obtain trying to capture a close up of the micro-controller chip:



Pin 1 is located at the lower-left corner, this might help to identify/confirm the communications interface wiring later.

Have a nice day!

[Pichet]

Hi!

Here are two photographs showing the lower back side and some significant details related to the JP1 area, respectively:



The circuit board seems trickier so it will have to come last!...