JP1 Remotes

[micj]

Here's a tip for making the 6 pin end of a JP1 cable that worked for me.

This works for a Radio Shack 15-2116/15-2117 and may not work for all remotes.

For the 6 pin header end, find a 10 pin female header (2 pins x 5 pins), or better yet, take an old serial port interface cable (has a 10-pin (either 9 or 10 wires) header on 1 end and a 9 pin or 25 pin D connector on the other end).

On the 10 pin female header side, carefully file down very slightly (about 1/32") the left and right sides of the header so that the width is just a bit smaller than the width of the location in the battery compartment. File only that part of the sides from the bottom (where the pins of the JP1 get inserted into the header) up to about the height of the ribbon cable wire.

If you've filed it properly, the header now fits nice and cleanly with the middle 6 pins of the header actually being used by the interface. The clips on each end should still be holding, but if not, add some epoxy around these sides when you glue in a subsequent step. I also bevel the left and right sides bottom edges ever so slightly where the pins go in to make it a bit easier to insert.

Now take a nice thin piece of plastic like one of those used in toy packages to secure the toy with twist ties. Cut it to shape (including a cut around any header shell's key) to cover most of the header on the side away from where the ribbon cable wires enter the header.

Now take some epoxy and glue that plastic piece to the header. The extra epoxy can be used to add extra strength around the top of the header, where the wires enter the header and in the header pin holes that are not the middle 6 pins (those are the ones you want to use). This helps secure the top to the bottom and also allows for quick, accurate, insertion of the header.

Do not cut any of the unused wires from the header, they provide additional strength, but when hooking them to the 25 pin D connector for the parallel interface, use only the correct middle 6 wires.

Add a 25 D connector at the other end with the Diode and two 1K resistors doing the regular JP1 interface construction steps there.

I have uploaded a file at Yahoo with the photos and text as well at;

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jp1/files/Interface%20Designs/JP1HeaderTip.zip


Hope this helps others!

Regards,

Ira[/url]

[ENikS]

Could you post a closeup of the design?

[micj]

ENiks,

See link above.

Regards,

Ira

[classicsat]

I just cut the hole bigger in the remote to accomodate a full 10 pin header connector, using the 25 pin male connector and hood from a serial backplate. I have made a bit of an extension using a 6 pin straight header (I knew I had, but never located when I built my main JP1 cable).