JP1 remotes modified with X10 keychain remote
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The Robman
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I just noticed that someone else developed the same sort of upgrade for X10-RF a while ago, here's the file...
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=2193
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=2193
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
Other X10 RF device
Yes, I tried this device code earlier without success.The Robman wrote:I just noticed that someone else developed the same sort of upgrade for X10-RF a while ago, here's the file...
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=2193
By the way, the other X10 modification articles just gave me another idea to try later (after the current mod is working). I could add a tilt switch in line with the RF puck to only enable it while pointed down. This would eliminate any concerns about power usage and cross-contamination of other device transmissions.
Fred
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The Robman
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I've got to assume that it's a hardware problem then, rather than an upgrade problem. Hopefully Tommy's RF capture device will reveal the answer.
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
X10 RF Hardware Problem?
That sounds like the only possibility, unless maybe the bit polarity is totally backward or something. I assumed that if the X10 remote is outputting IR at the same time as the RF, then the IR polarity has to be the same as the RF. However, I am not aware of the X10 IR signal being used for anything from the RF remotes. My mod used the URC8820 output after going through the first inverter, since this is what directly drove the IR output.The Robman wrote:I've got to assume that it's a hardware problem then, rather than an upgrade problem. Hopefully Tommy's RF capture device will reveal the answer.
I am still curious as to how you knew to use NEC2 versus NEC1 versus X10 protocols since the supposedly working devices are inconsistent in which one is selected.
Fred
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The Robman
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The X10-IR protocol is a totally different format to NEC, and all the examples of X10-RF signals that were referenced earlier use the NEC format.
The terms NEC1 and NEC2 are JP1-specific terms, so you won't see them referenced outside of the world of JP1.
NEC1 refers to the version of the signal where the data stream is sent once, then if the button is held down a stream with no data is sent (ie, just the leadin and leadout portions).
NEC2 refers to the version of the signal where the data stream is repeatedly sent for as long as the button is held.
The terms NEC1 and NEC2 are JP1-specific terms, so you won't see them referenced outside of the world of JP1.
NEC1 refers to the version of the signal where the data stream is sent once, then if the button is held down a stream with no data is sent (ie, just the leadin and leadout portions).
NEC2 refers to the version of the signal where the data stream is repeatedly sent for as long as the button is held.
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
RF mod update
It has been a while since I gave an update. Unfortunately, my modified URC-8820 evidently got something spilled on it (while still opened). I cleaned it well with alcohol, but the remote is no longer functional. It does still handle J1.2 programming, however. This happened before I built my Digitrace RF tester.
I have since bought two 10820 remotes (as substitutes) so that I could steal my one remaining 8820 from family use. I modified this unit with the RF and found it was not transmitting enough to be picked up by the Digitrace. Apparently, the IR LED drive is not enough to modulate the RF circuit after all. I haven't gone any further, yet.
Meanwhile, I've noticed that the 10820 remote functions quite differently from the 8820. For some reason, each button push requires a second or two delay prior to initiating a second button push command. This is functional (although somewhat irritating) except for entering command strings, like channel numbers. Any thoughts about what could be wrong? I'm wondering if the unit is defective.
Fred
I have since bought two 10820 remotes (as substitutes) so that I could steal my one remaining 8820 from family use. I modified this unit with the RF and found it was not transmitting enough to be picked up by the Digitrace. Apparently, the IR LED drive is not enough to modulate the RF circuit after all. I haven't gone any further, yet.
Meanwhile, I've noticed that the 10820 remote functions quite differently from the 8820. For some reason, each button push requires a second or two delay prior to initiating a second button push command. This is functional (although somewhat irritating) except for entering command strings, like channel numbers. Any thoughts about what could be wrong? I'm wondering if the unit is defective.
Fred
RF mod to URC-10820 ?
I noticed that the URC-10820 remotes use 4 AAA batteries instead of two like the URC-8820. Also, the schematic shows a much more solid drive via Q31 (at R32). I may try to use my credit card remote to modify the URC-10820, since both are 6V. (I need to figure out why the 10820 is so slow in accepting push button commands first, though).
Fred
Fred
URC10820
My URC-10820 problem turned out to be 2-fold. The batteries had gotten weak enough in 1 day such that the remote was indicating an error condition. Replacing the batteries corrected the button delay issue, but only for a couple days. The supplier sent me a new remote.
Fred
Fred